Looking at titebond II green vs their hide glue. They don't list much difference between open time and working time between the two. I have always heard hide glues have more open time for woodworkers?
Thanks.
Brian
Looking at titebond II green vs their hide glue. They don't list much difference between open time and working time between the two. I have always heard hide glues have more open time for woodworkers?
Thanks.
Brian
Brian
Titebond with the green label is Titebond III, Titebond II is a blue label. Both Titebond III and Hide Glue have about the same 10 minute assembly time. Hide glue does cure slow and calls for a 12 hour clamp time minimum, while Titebond III you can unclamp after 30 minutes (I usually go longer). This isn't cure time, this is clamp time to make sure the parts don't come apart.
Where hide glue is useful is where you might want to take something apart for a repair in the future. Say a chair, where a cross-leg stretcher breaks and you want to replace it. Spray the joint with water and you and you can work the parts out. On the other hand, Titebond III is water 'proof' and can be used for outdoor projects and food contact items like a cutting board.
Last edited by Justin Rapp; 01-01-2021 at 8:06 AM.
Nice, clear, informative explanation by Justin,,,thank you
Liquid Hide Glue is "slipperier"; allowing you to adjust the joints longer than with TB 1, 2, & 3 after putting them together. In practice I also find it to have a longer open time. It also is less stain-phobic than regular PVA Titebonds, although it will still show, just not as bad.
I tend to use it when I have a complex glue up, like when I have sub-stiles or rails or multiple planes and want to be able to adjust things for several minutes while I get the entire thing put together. I also use it when having glue residue would be difficult to remove like in a corner or in open pored woods like oak that won't be planed after glue up. Also in winter when the shop is really dry, I sometimes have trouble with PVA drying on the wood before I can get joints together, and Liquid Hide Glue helps in that situation.
If I don't need those properties, I nearly always use TB1 for indoor glue, as the parts are usable in a couple of hours, rather than overnight with Liquid Hide Glue.
Ironically, the main feature of Liquid Hide Glue is completely opposite of the main feature of regular hot hide glue, open time. Hot hide glue is maybe 10-30 seconds, longer if the parts have been prewarmed (or the shop is in the 80Fs or 90Fs) and Liquid Hide Glue's open time is like 10 minutes or more, depending on the shop humidity.
Titebond II Extend has a little more open time and assembly time:
http://www.titebond.com/product/glue...3-3bff0a0f71ab
OPEN ASSEMBLY TIME:15 minutes (70°F./50% RH)
TOTAL ASSEMBLY TIME:20-25 minutes (70°F./50%RH)
Chris
Titebond ll Extend appears runny because the solids settle out on the shelf. If you agitate it it has a normal consistency.
I use Titebond l Extend for interior projects that require a moderate extended open time. It has the advantage of being the most creep-resistant pva in the Titebond line.
If I need more time and for exterior projects I use marine epoxy.
you have to stir glue. After six months its on its way downhill. Both those from a Chemist at the top company. Top cause they know their crap compared to the big companies that sell the stuff to us. Solids are different in different glues and stuff will react different based on the water content in some cases. There are tech sheets and charts for all of that stuff.
When more open time might be required, I would consider breaking down the glue up into parts before I would start hunting for glue I am not familiar with. When possible.