acclimating stock for tool chest project

[Dan Grano]

Hello everyone. I found a couple of older threads that address parts of what I need help with, but there are still some details I could use assistance with.

I'm going to build a dutch tool chest from Chris Schwarz's plans and his cut list is for S4S lumber from home centers (usually pine; .75" thick x 11.25" wide). My concern in going this route is acclimation. I work in a 1-car garage in SC without heat or AC, so my tool chest will go through significant temperature and humidity changes as it lives out there. From what I have read on other threads S4S lumber already sized to final dimensions needs to be used right away. If I do this, am I inviting disaster due to wood movement? The tool chest is mostly joined by dovetails and cut nails.

My other options are to buy 4/4 or 5/4 pine at a lumber yard, but the closest yard that carries it is 2.5 hours from my house.

Or, I could buy SYP dimensional lumber at the BORG that is 1.5" thick/11.25" wide, acclimate it, and just mill it down; it would be inexpensive but would waste a decent bit of material.

I'd be grateful for any advice/opinions. Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Clear one-by material from the home center is "better than construction dry" and because it's only 3/4" thin it's often used for trim work with acceptable movement. I would still acclimate it to your shop before building with it, however...a few days to a week or two stacked and stickered is a good idea. I'd use that over SYP for this kind of project for sure, since the SYP is going to be "dripping wet", comparatively speaking, to the one-by pine and will likely be more prone to movement once you mill it, even if you are very careful and take even amounts off both sides and then stack/sticker for quite awhile. So if you're going to buy from the home center, the S4S clear pine is fine. So is the poplar and whatever other hardwood they have, too, although the unit price is much higher than milling your own from dry rough.

[John TenEyck]

As Jim said, S4S pine from the borg will be fine. The RH in your shop is irrelevant as long as the wood is in harmony with it when you make the chest. Let it acclimate for a week and all will be well. However, you would be wise to complete the basic dovetailed box as quickly as possible after you begin working on it to avoid the inevitable changes that will occur in width when the RH changes. As long as box was built when when the RH is at X the box will survive just fine when the RH changes to Y or Z. No one had AC and some didn't even have heat a couple hundred years ago yet you can find furniture still intact that were built by guys who understood how wood moves and built accordingly.

John

[David Bassett]

Hello everyone. I found a couple of older threads that address parts of what I need help with, but there are still some details I could use assistance with.

I'm going to build a dutch tool chest from Chris Schwarz's plans and his cut list is for S4S lumber from home centers (usually pine; .75" thick x 11.25" wide). My concern in going this route is acclimation. I work in a 1-car garage in SC without heat or AC, so my tool chest will go through significant temperature and humidity changes as it lives out there. From what I have read on other threads S4S lumber already sized to final dimensions needs to be used right away. If I do this, am I inviting disaster due to wood movement? The tool chest is mostly joined by dovetails and cut nails.

My other options are to buy 4/4 or 5/4 pine at a lumber yard, but the closest yard that carries it is 2.5 hours from my house.

Or, I could buy SYP dimensional lumber at the BORG that is 1.5" thick/11.25" wide, acclimate it, and just mill it down; it would be inexpensive but would waste a decent bit of material.

I'd be grateful for any advice/opinions. Thanks!

Megan Fitzpatrick is working on a book for Lost Art Press about the DTC. It will be more comprehensive, cover more variations, and include lessons learned while teaching classes about building the chest. As she works through different issues, and variations, she's been posting on Instagram (both on @lostartpress and her own @1snugthejoiner feeds). Probably worth searching them out. One thing I remember is she's come to favor California Sugar Pine 1x12's (nominal). I believe the original article suggested Eastern White Pine. She's several times explained the value of a less dense wood with the light pine being strong enough and making a more maneuverable chest. That argues against SYP, or most other woods. She did mention Poplar is often cheap and works well, but makes a chest too heavy for her to move it alone when loaded with tools.

[Dan Grano]

Thank you so much for the help everyone. Jim and John, I appreciate the advice on doing a relatively short acclimation time; very helpful. David, thank you for the heads up on Megan Fitzpatrick's Instagram posts. I'll definitely take a look. Also, thank you all for your advice on how to time using the material with the build. - Dan