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Thread: Picked up a used Shaper - looking for advice on tooling, etc.

  1. #16
    Yeah,spacers. Schmidt would certainly have them. And I guess lots of other places, easy to buy stuff that cant possibly
    cause a guy to get hurt and start suing ! Never use more spacers UNDER the cutter head than needed for that specific
    job.

  2. #17
    my view and im almost never Mr Safety its not right for most. Those heads run at 3,500 RPM based on what i was told by the other largest manufacturer. You have two speeds on your shaper, based on his statement then you have wrong and more wrong. Joe and Mel and more will chime in. You can ask Schmidt what they say. id be curious for sure. There are rules for projection, three times the thickness of the steel which ive seen often broken, corrugated 4 times the thickness. My combos are 3,500 and 7,000. I dont think that is a coincidence. The machine has speeds that suit the heads of the time and those heads were one of them.

    Thanks for the coping guys info guys ill get to it later ive done enough you tube searches but even big Tennon heads searched that several times, other night trying to find the max size for the Griggio shaper and didnt find it.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 12-29-2020 at 3:32 PM.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Thanks Jared. Very helpful. Do you have any brand preferences when it comes to the tooling you recommended?
    I have had good luck with the amana insert tooling. I have a bunch of cmt insert tooling as well but its not as nice as the amana stuff. Titan makes reasonable quality corrugated heads.

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Out of curiosity / ignorance, why do you recommend replacing the tires on the feeder?
    They get hard / brittle, and loose all their grip.

  4. #19
    Jared thank you for the link for the coping heads, Instagram wont let me view as im not logged on, thats right im not, now let me see the photos Reminds me of Bush saying if you are not with us you are against us, really?

    I got to see for a few seconds and one interesting shot of shelf support there. past shelf support with wood supports was done a few ways I asked the old guy once which one of them is the best. In that instagram that got covered quickly one of them was close the ones with the circles and piece going from front to back. How it was done where he learned was a bit different but close. First time ive ever seen anyone do that. Nice.

    So do I have to join instagram to be able to look at what you sent? think so. More likely than Scientology though.

    Kevin I repeated some of your stuff as I was typing and posted then later saw your post, your 1 1/4 statement, the bulk of all the tooling at auctions is 1 1/4" so its a good number to go with. I saw that and larger stuff at almost all of them. Phillip if you have time take some more photos of the tooling, I have stuff that I would never make the way it was made and it just told me even though from pros they didnt have all the info to know how to make safer knives.

    the tires on the feeder are the cheap generic ones, have them on one, they dont look hard but you have to check them, most of the guys replace them with softer grippier stuff with a few choices
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 12-29-2020 at 3:35 PM.

  5. #20
    Philip, the tires on your feeder look like the original issue, not very good to begin with and almost useless when old. New polyurethane wheels will save much frustration.

    A set of spacers will save a lot of nut spinning time. Keep the cutters as low on the spindle as possible to reduce stress on the spindle.

    With a 5k rpm low speed you can run some fairly large tooling. Most will have a maximum rpm stamped on the body. Stephenson's book has a useful table for max speeds for different types and diameters.
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 12-29-2020 at 3:44 PM.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post

    With a 5k rpm low speed you can run some fairly large tooling. Most will have a maximum rpm stamped on the body. Stephenson's book has a useful table for max speeds for different types and diameters.
    Run it off a vfd and between that and the 2 motor speeds you would have every speed you needed. I typically run between 5500 and 8000 more than anything else.

  7. #22
    on the split collars which shown here I have heads from two manufacturers. None of them have speed marked on the heads. All of them have direction and an arrow on them.

    Dialing in a speed from a VFD would be nice. How much for a set up for a larger motor?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    on the split collars which shown here I have heads from two manufacturers. None of them have speed marked on the heads. All of them have direction and an arrow on them.

    Dialing in a speed from a VFD would be nice. How much for a set up for a larger motor?
    A vfd capable of running a 10hp 3ph motor (27amps) off single phase is about $650. 3ph to 3ph is about half that.

  9. #24
    thanks think he said its 5HP.

    Someone mentioned wiring and thats a good statement. Its a known fact that SCM had some bad wiring. I had one of those then same machine with different wiring. The bad one I have no idea how it never shorted out, casing on the wire broken down and almost gone in a few places including where it passed through and close to the metal box with metal connectors and broken down. far from ideal.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    thanks think he said its 5HP.

    Someone mentioned wiring and thats a good statement. Its a known fact that SCM had some bad wiring. I had one of those then same machine with different wiring. The bad one I have no idea how it never shorted out, casing on the wire broken down and almost gone in a few places including where it passed through and close to the metal box with metal connectors and broken down. far from ideal.
    5hp off single phase is $250 for a decent vfd

  11. #26
    I ran the 3 and 1/2 "( or aprox) diameter shaper collars as fast as 10,000 rpm with short projecting knives like beads and
    small ogee mouldings. The guidlines found in print have little to do with practical safe work practices. It's all about
    staying out of court . The collars from Schmidt that we had ,came with a piece of paper mainly saying that the stuff was
    dangerous and ,I think, a statement saying they should not be used at a projection of some very short distance. I've
    used the old smoothe type and the newer "lock edge stuff".

  12. #27
    Manufacturer owner said 3,500 ive done 4,400 several times on small projection.

    3 times is the rule projection on serrated but its totally exceeded. In auctions many times I saw stuff hanging out way past and that was slip edge. That was in machines that were being used up to the auction not stored. More important is how long the knife is in the head. Ive never seen it stated and we were taught half way or more. Thats actually poor. The force on the knife to want to throw it goes down when the slot is more full. I have enough knives that are just over half way, fine but not great, considering the cost to make the knives longer id say people did wrong but also didnt know. Never talked to anyone that knew about filling the slot.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post
    Run it off a vfd and between that and the 2 motor speeds you would have every speed you needed. I typically run between 5500 and 8000 more than anything else.
    I have a 5 HP VFD from Jack that runs my 5 Hp Oliver 166 jointer. I bought it before I got the Kay RPC and haven’t messed with it as it works perfectly on the jointer, helps stop the cutterhead in about 7 seconds, and gives me the option to speed the Terminus cutterhead up a bit for certain woods, which is convenient. the jointer arrived in my possession without a starter switch so it was convenient to use the VFD as a starter. I could track down a switch for the Oliver and move the 5 HP VFD to the shaper, though I would lose my “brake” and variable speed control. I would imagine a small VFD would be handy for the variable speed on the feeder as well.

    Is there any concern with running the shaper at variable speed / HZ via the VFD long term?

    Also, I googled Parts Pronto and it took me to the main SCM site where it appears I have to sign in to their login portal. In order to do that, it appears I need to have purchased a (new?) machine from them? I now have 2 SCM machines but they are both very old and were obviously purchased used. Maybe I’m missing something?
    Last edited by Phillip Mitchell; 12-29-2020 at 9:44 PM.
    Still waters run deep.

  14. #29
    I called SCM this morning and talked to a person in parts and made a little bit of headway on trying to find a spindle nut and washer. Apparently, records of a 1” spindle for the T100 don’t exist in their system. Only 3/4”, 30mm, and 1 1/4”. I asked him to cross reference a similar era T110 spindle and see if part numbers matched up and apparently the 1 1/4” spindle for both the T100 and T110 are the same part number...whether they are actually the same part / interchangeable is still unclear. They do not stock the 1 1/4” spindle itself - no availability, price, etc. However there is an option for 1” spindle / parts for the T110. Is that the same spindle I have on my T100? Not sure, but he sent me copies of both manuals via email that I will study later on today.

    He did say that there was stock in Italy of the spindle nut and washer for the top of the 1” spindle for the T110 and that the washer was $230 and the nut was $1xx, I forgot the exact number....I knew any parts from them would be high, but that sounds a bit outrageous.

    Ideally, I would find a used 1 1/4” spindle with all nuts/washers included and not have to pay nearly $400 for 2 small pieces of hardware for a less than ideally sized spindle that I plan to upgrade anyway. The hammer price at the auction for the machine was $400. Obviously l didn’t realize from the photos, lack of description that there wasn’t a nut and washer included with the spindle. Live and burn, I suppose.

    Anybody have any other sources for hardware like this? Is there an SCM / Minimax owners group website or anything of the like where I might find other owners who may have extra parts laying around?
    Still waters run deep.

  15. #30
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    I’m in my phone and can never see photos posted on this site, but for almost $500, I might try to pursue a small local machine shop to make the nut and washer. My concern is the spindles aren’t interchangeable between the T110 and the T100, which would suck tremendously. Now, chances are SCM didn’t make numerous different 1” spindles for their machines, but still.

    You have to wonder with some of these machines at auction. Why were the spindle nut and washer not on the machine? What kind of lunatic takes a cutterhead off and doesn’t replace the nut? I recently watch a martin T75 sell at auction for a very low price, but it was missing the rip fence. That is impossible to replace, and like your spindle nut, there’s no reason to take the fence off. It drops out of the way on the far side of the table.

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