Question about mitered MDF

[Kevin Smira]

Building a small jewelry box for the wife. made from 1/2" mdf, edge banded with solid cherry and veneered with cherry veneer. Question about joining the corners. Initially, I thought I'd just domino them using a butt joint, but now thinking about mitering. What would be the best method for joining the miters? My smallest bit on the domino is 5mm (I have the df500), and my length is 30mm. So, I would blow out the pcs if I used that length. I could order a 4mm bit and 4x20mm dominos, but that would prohibit me from finishing this piece in the timeframe that I want to (note I didn't say need to). So, suggestions for joining? I thought about a spline, but I intend to edge band, then veneer to the edge instead of veneer then edge band (meaning if I did that, I could cover a spline with the edge banding).

Thanks,
Kevin

[Steve Jenkins]

If you have a good biscuit joiner number “0” biscuits will work

[Andy D Jones]

Lock miter router bit?

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[John TenEyck]

Why not stick with butt joints or a rabbeted butt joint? I don't see an issue if you are going to veneer it.

John

[Mel Fulks]

Nothing wrong with your plan, but I think most of the modern jewelry boxes are too beefy....that's why they have
a guarantee! I would buy 1/8th inch tempered Masonite. Same thing as mdf ...only better. Thin boxes are more elegant.
The thick boxes of TV western "strong boxes" are the wrong model for your project. Since you are going to veneer the
box ,you could construct it with lapped pieces ...making light construction as strong as the thick boxes. Lapped pieces
would make 1/4" ply . Dainty and strong.