I am thinking of buying a LN Small Chisel Plane. It is only available with an A2 blade. The research I've done indicates one can't get an A2 blade as sharp as an O1. Is this true and does it really make a difference?
I am thinking of buying a LN Small Chisel Plane. It is only available with an A2 blade. The research I've done indicates one can't get an A2 blade as sharp as an O1. Is this true and does it really make a difference?
Wood working is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.
It's not my favorite steel but you can get it plenty sharp. Works better with synthetic waterstones, or something like a Spyderco ceramic. My main issue with it is that it seems to fail by tiny chipping at the edge instead of just gradually wearing smooth.
I think it would be fine for a tool like this that you are not going do a ton of work with. I have it my block plane and my LN spokeshave and it works fine there. I only felt compelled to swap it out on my #4 bench plane due to the microchipping.
I have a couple of A2 chisels and a lie-Nielsen block plane with an A2 blade. When I sharpen them and look at them under a bright light with magnification, I can convince myself that they look different than an O1 blade. They do feel different when sharpening than O1. When I use them, they work great. I would be perfectly happy using an A2 chisel plane. I’m curious to use A2 on a smoothing plane and see if it makes any visible difference on a finished surface.
I use diamond stones up to 1200, then polish on a black Arkansas stone. I notice Lie-Nielsen pushes water stones on their site. I’m curious if people who have tried different sharpening systems think they make a difference on A2.
Hi Bill,
There have been many discussions of this over the years.
Here is one from a little more than six years ago > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?219830
My three plane blades with A2 steel are easier to sharpen on water stones than on oilstones.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
In theory, the guys with microscopes, tell us the A2 carbides leave a less refined edge with initial sharpness degrading quickly.
I think, in practice, most of us don't sharpen well enough to see that effect and will do just fine if our sharpening system can handle A2 (and it was well heat treated. As I trust L-N's to be.) Bottom line is expect to take a little longer to sharpen A2, expect it to lose it's "first stroke, just sharpened" edge sooner, but to keep an "OK working edge" for longer. Then judge how YMMV!
In my experience, there is little difference in practice. LN makes fantastic irons. I have O1, A2, and PMv11 in the shop from different makers and all do a great job. I do use shapton waterstones exclusively, so I can't comment on the sharpening differences. I also use a 25 degree bevel and a small secondary bevel at about 30 degrees.
Michael
Robert - u should read all the info on wood central about the "unicorn" edge. Preventing edge chipping is one of reasons to give it a try.
Actually..I have not the foggiest idea what steel is in the tools I use.....other than those with a Chrome Vanadium stamped on them....nor have I noticed any differences....sharp is sharp....and as long as I can continue to get them sharp....that really is all that counts. Would much rather use the tools, than waste time off in the search of the "Perfect Edge".......
The last time I looked Lie Neilson didn't have any 01 irons available. I also like it to me it does getting a keener edge. But doesn't last as long as A2.
There's always a trade off. No such thing as a unicorn. Someone should tell David he can stop looking. 😀
O1 can take a more shallow / acute angle than can A2. At >=30° pretty much everything gets sharp and stays that for a usably long period. A2 has a reputation for not doing well at < 25° whereas O1 can get to 20° for paring work.
I've been happy with my LN A2 plane blades. I've never really wished for anything different. (I did pick up PMV11 blades on one or two LV planes, but I haven't used them enough to really appreciate a difference)
I've been happy with my LN chisels (also A2), although I sometimes wonder if I'd like O1 even more.
I've heard sharpening method may affect satisfaction with A2. I'm using sigma water stones.
Derek cohen has a couple of articles comparing chisel steels on his website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/index.html
Matt
The range of optimum bevel angle is another factor in my choice of O1 steel for all but a few tools. My paring chisels start out off my electric sharpening system at 15º. Then get 'reground' when they stray much steeper.
My plane blades are mostly at 25º. Some are at 30º as are many of the flat side chisels.
There are a few PM v-11 blades in the shop and they seem to do okay on oilstones. Even though they have been used regularly they haven't had to be sharpened much. That is a good reason for them in itself.
The Veritas set of miniature chisels has me wanting to give them a try.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Jim, since the OP's question was A2 vs O1 I did not bring up the question of potentially superior steels, I think either will work well in a chisel plane.