So i'm thinking of getting a CNC router next spring

[Alex Zeller]

I've read a number of threads here on the subject but, unlike most woodworking equipment, it seams like things are always changing. What I want to be able to do is things like monogram inlays. I want to spend $500 but that really means I would like to stay under $2k for the machine. I figure 30"x30" should be big enough for what I want to do. In the future I could see wanting to do a curved part like the back of a chair. While reading some of the threads here one of the names that came up is Mega V. They have an option for a 4th axis. Also another option is homing switches.

I deal with stepper motors at work, mostly Vexta brand. Almost everything has opto home flags (I'm guessing what they call "homing switches" at work. So I'm familiar with what they are and how they work but the videos I've watched just had the operator place the router bit at the corners of the wood to set the position. With home flags would you just make two fixed blocks to push the wood against so you could skip the step of locating each corner?

I would prefer used to get more value for my money or a kit. I have a laptop I could dedicate to this but would need everything else including the software. I've read about converting JPEGS to G-code but what resolution would be needed for a JPEG to look smooth? Can a cnc do a sharp 90 degree corner or it it always going to have a 1/8" raduis? I'm sure I'll have more questions but I have time to study up.

[David Falkner]

Starting with your last question, yes, if you do a V-bit carving you can have sharp corners. Tons of videos on how this is done but you'll get the idea.

The issue you'll have with a small lightweight machine is the lack of rigidity and flexing if pushed too hard. As long as you stay within the capabilities of the machine you can produce good results.

David

[Jim Becker]

IMHO, about the best bang for the more realistic budget of $2K is the Shapeoko including new. They have a proven product and have good support, too. Heavier machines tend to hold their value even when used and it's rare to find something "worthy" at that kind of price point. For the work you want to do, the Carbide Create software that comes with it will work just fine, too, and it will cheerfully allow you to use an existing computer, too.

There are a number of ways to handle workpiece placement for repeat work. The specific controller software for whatever machine you decide to use will dictate the specific methods available to you.

BTW, you do not generally convert JPG to g-code directly. Aside from specific software that is designed to reproduce things like photos, graphic images, such as JPG need to be traced/vectorized and massaged so that you can then create the toolpaths that are output as g-code for the machine to work with.

[Ed Mitchell]

I've used the Shapeoko XXL many times, it's what I learned on, so I am biased towards thinking it's a good value, and agreeing with Jim.
Recently I've seen a very affordable option for hobbyists, but I can't vouch for it's value, since I don't know anyone who has ever used one:

https://sienci.com/product/longmill/

made in Canada, 30x30 work area with over 4" of Z axis for around 1000 bucks...if it works reasonably well then it is pretty tough value to beat. However, again, I have no idea if it works well.

oh, and for vectorizing jpgs, you can, in a pinch, start here: https://www.vectorization.org/?fbcli...X4k305aVAhOsdQ

[Grant Wilkinson]

I've played on a friend's Shapeoko. I forget the model number.

Earlier this year, I bought the Sienci 30x30 Long Mill that Ed mentions. It is a very robust machine, uses lead screws not belts and is backed up extremely well by the two young men who designed it in South Western Ontario Canada. There is an excellent forum of current users that may help you make your decision. If you have any specific questions, I may be able to answer them. I'm very pleased with mine.

[Alex Zeller]

Shapeoko seams to be the standard for the size machine I'm most likely going to end up with. There seams to be enough of them that there's usually one or two used around this area. Unfortunately with the virus traveling is limited but by spring it could be easing. I assumed that the depth per cut would be limited by rigidity. I got the impression that with a Shapeoko class machine that about 1/8" per pass is what I could expect with a 1/4" bit. Of course that's just a rough number but a place to start.

That leads me to my first real question, in this class of machine it seams like the rails are mounted to the spoil board and it provides rigidity for the cnc. Would making a steel framed table help? For example the Shapeoko looks like it has a leveling foot in each corner. If they were connected to the steel frame would that provide extra rigidity? The aluminum Y axis rails still could flex but all 4 corners would be tied together. Looking at the Sienci I think it would benefit even more since the Y axis rails are mounted to the spoil board in more locations. I have plenty of room for this but being able to roll it around is always a nice option.

Is a 4th axis something that can be added to any of the cnc mills in this class? Someday I would love to combine the cnc with the wood lathe. Being able to follow the curve of a bowl to engrave it seams kind of useful. What about the sofeware size, do most/ all of the software support a 4th axis or only specific versions? Is a 4th axis really not needed?

[Jim Becker]

Alex, even with my much larger Camaster machine, I don't often cut deeper than .25-.35 inch with a .25" cutter. I can go faster than a Shapeoko, of course, but in the end, quality of cut with proper chip-load is the best practice.

[bobby milam]

My machine is rigid enough to be much more aggressive than what I cut but it doesn't mean that you have to. If you aren't using it as a machine to be doing production work (if you are then you should be looking at a beefier machine anyway) then you can do just fine with the lighter cuts. The goal is to not only use the machine as another worker but to also use it appropriately so that there is less cleanup on the part afterwards. 4th axis really isn't a lathe but can do similar things. There are actually cnc lathes that you can buy or build. I think most people like the idea of the 4th axis but few really find it something that they use. Kind of like 3d. It is nice but takes so darn long I have only done one 3d item in maybe 6 years. I only use Vectric software and it does 4th axis as well as many others.

Generally if you are looking for really rigid machine than you would be looking at other more expensive machines. You preferably want heavy welded steel machines. Mine for instance weighs over 3000 lbs. I wouldn't expect a machine bolted together and fairly light weight to do anything close to my machine. There's a reason why some machines are several thousands and some are several hundreds. You get what you pay for but the cheaper machines can do good as long as you work within their limitations. I can't expect my machine to do the work of a 100,000 machine

[Grant Wilkinson]

I have my Sienci Long Mill mounted on a table top that is two sheets of 3/4" MDF thick. The spoil board fits between the Y axis supports so that I do not need to dismount the Mill to change out the spoil board. With four supports on each Y axis rail, I don't see any flex at all in my Mill.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I'm also in this camp of wanting a reasonably priced, for hobbyist use, CNC.

Was researching the Shapeoko and came across the OneFinityCNC. Seems well thought out and does away with the stepper motor belts, which seems to be a bit of a weakness, with steel lead screws. Price is about the same as the Shapeoko.

I'm leaning towards the OneFinityCNC, whole package with dust boot, clamps and V-Carve Pro comes in about the same price as the Shapeoko XXL.

You can also add a laser module to it.

[Ronald Blue]

I'm also in this camp of wanting a reasonably priced, for hobbyist use, CNC.

Was researching the Shapeoko and came across the OneFinityCNC. Seems well thought out and does away with the stepper motor belts, which seems to be a bit of a weakness, with steel lead screws. Price is about the same as the Shapeoko.

I'm leaning towards the OneFinityCNC, whole package with dust boot, clamps and V-Carve Pro comes in about the same price as the Shapeoko XXL.

You can also add a laser module to it.

Chris I wouldn't put your whole decision on whether a CNC uses stepper motors and belts or ball screws. That sounds nice but they are from what I've read and experienced they cause few problems. The rails that everything rides on are where the precision starts along how rigid everything is in the gantry. They have to be mounted to a rigid frame in order to give repeatability and the results you desire.

[Dennis Peacock]

I have a Shapeoko 3 XXL. If you like to "tinker" and "fidget" with things...it's a great machine to get. If, like me, want a machine that you buy, setup, and put it to work? Then you want to step up to better machines. A good choice as well is the Shapeoko Pro. You'll also want to get into a good drawing program like VCarve Desktop, VCarve Pro, or Carveco for drawing and generating your tool paths. CNC technology hasn't changed much in 40 years. The real difference is in the software for drawing, tool pathing, and sending gcode to the machine. With all the additional money I've spent on getting the Shapeoko running/working to where I'm happy with it? I could have almost purchased a Camaster Stinger I machine. My plan is to eventually step into the Stinger line of CNC's because it is my belief is that the more rigid and beefy your cnc is? The better.
With all this being said, I have bought a VFD and a 2.2Kw liquid cooled spindle to put on my SO3XXL.....and I've also installed the HDZ made by C3D. The HDZ was well worth the money and I'm told that the spindle that I ordered is "day and night" difference over the trim router it came with.
We shall see.
I'm one of those weird people....I buy a machine for my shop and I expect it to work. Little did I realize that the lower cost cnc machines are things you need to tinker with and invest more time/effort in to get them to where you and the machine are working happily together.

In short, the SO3XXL is a decent machine. It will easily machine the 30" x 30" you are wanting. I'm just asking you to think through what you will do with your machine in 2 years and not what you want to do with it right now. The old rule still applies here......buy your 2nd machine 1st......I didn't and wish that I had...but "money" was my deciding factor at the time of decision. I've learned a TON with my little machine and I've made a few nice things with it. Shop/look around...you can find people selling their SO3XXL machines in the $1500-$2000 range all setup and ready to go. People are out-growing their machines or are like me, wanting a machine that is more robust.
Feel free to ask me questions....and I'll be totally honest and transparent with my answers to you.

[Alex Zeller]

I haven't decided what I'll do yet. For what my plans are it's hard to justify moving up to the next class of machine. I don't mind fiddling with stuff but I also don't like beating a dead horse. For example I had a Harbor Freight 14" bandsaw given to me. I probably threw a couple hundred at it adding a riser block, stiffer spring, etc and made it better but it was never all that great. It worked but it was never enjoyable to use. I knew that a bandsaw was something I was going to use often so I replaced it with a 19" Grizzly. Not an Italian saw but half the money.

I've seen several higher end CNC routers for sale used. But they are 4x8 and that would just take up too much room. You never know what the future will bring but I seriously doubt that I'll ever have a need for a machine that large. So I'm limiting myself to 4'x4' as the maximum size.

[Jim Becker]

Alex, if you join the Camheads forum, you can monitor the Classifieds. The smaller machines do come up for sale so you may be able to score one for less than the cost of brand new. I would imagine there are similar listings out there for ShopBot and ShopSabre, too...all are US manufacturers. They will still not be "low dollar" opportunities, but they are stouter machines than the "very hobby" focused products if that's important to you.