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Thread: Table saw advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    13

    Table saw advice

    I am in the process of building a new 3 car garage workshop. During this time, I am also searching for deals and looking at new equipment. When I moved from my home in the NC mountains a few years ago, I sold my 2 largest pieces of equipment, one of those being a new Powermatic PM2000 table saw that was only about 2 years old. I am now looking at re-acquiring some woodworking machinery, with the first being a "new" table saw. My choices for table saws include:
    1) Paying up to $3500 for a new Powermatic PM2000B
    2) Paying up to $4000 for a new Sawstop (industrial)
    3) Investing as much as $2500 in an old Powermatic PM66

    Right now, I am looking at 2 model 66 table saws. One that is 5 hours away (in Atlanta, GA) asking $2000, and the other that is 15 hours away (in New Hampshire) that I might be able to get on auction for less than $1000, but would be site unseen. I currently live in Charleston, SC. Both of these model 66 saws look to be in "very good" condition.

    When I had my Powermatic PM2000, I loved it and told myself at the time that I would never have anything else. However, I see a lot of mediocre reviews on the internet for the new stuff people are buying today from Powermatic. I'm not sure what could go wrong with an older PM66 that I wouldn't be able to get spare parts for? Any advice?

    Model 66 asking $2000:


    Model 66 that would be bought site unseen at auction for as much as $1000:
    Last edited by Bryan Solomon; 12-04-2020 at 12:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Solomon View Post
    I am in the process of building a new 3 car garage workshop. During this time, I am also searching for deals and looking at new equipment. When I moved from my home in the NC mountains a few years ago, I sold my 2 largest pieces of equipment, one of those being a new Powermatic PM2000 table saw that was only about 2 years old. I am now looking at re-acquiring some woodworking machinery, with the first being a "new" table saw. My choices for table saws include:
    1) Paying up to $3500 for a new Powermatic PM2000B
    2) Paying up to $4000 for a new Sawstop (industrial)
    3) Investing as much as $2500 in an old Powermatic PM66

    Right now, I am looking at 2 model 66 table saws. One that is 5 hours away (in Atlanta, GA) asking $2000, and the other that is 15 hours away (in New Hampshire) that I might be able to get on auction for less than $1000, but would be site unseen. I currently live in Charleston, SC. Both of these model 66 saws look to be in "very good" condition.

    When I had my Powermatic PM2000, I loved it and told myself at the time that I would never have anything else. However, I see a lot of mediocre reviews on the internet for the new stuff people are buying today from Powermatic. I'm not sure what could go wrong with an older PM66 that I wouldn't be able to get spare parts for? Any advice?
    Unless you’re in heavy production, a Sawstop PCS should be sufficient, and is a joy to own and use. It is one cool saw.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,290
    It's up to you but I would seriously think long and hard about driving 15 hours to save a few bucks. If anything I would focus more on the 2000 in NYC since it should have a riving knife and is closer. Of course you will need to deal with the 3 phase motor. That could be a good thing. Having 3 phase power that can drive a 5hp motor would allow you to add other tools. As for the choices between the SS and the 2000B, I see no reason not to go with the SS. The SS will probably have a better resell value (may or may not be important) and you get the safety feature.

  4. #4
    I have a PM2000 and love it as well. That said, if I had to buy a saw now, I'd reach deep and buy an equivalent Saw Stop. I think it's the best made cabinet saw out there, with the added benefit of built in safety. If you pay now, you'll only pay once.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    271
    That $1000 auction example looks stellar. I’d be all over it but I already got my dream PM66 this past summer, also at an auction.
    It will not have a riving knife or modern dust collection but it’s one of the best examples of the last of the American-made old iron.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Mt Pleasant SC
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    721
    Hey Bryan, welcome to the low country!
    I’m over the bridge in Mt Pleasant. Been here 3 years.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,544
    Have you looked at any of the sliding tablesaws? I would consider a slider if buying new in that price range.

  8. #8
    Does either saw require 3 phase power and if so, do you have 3 phase? Over the years I have purchased a lot of machinery at auction. Most of that equipment has run on 3 phase power if it was from a commercial shop.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,928
    I'm in the SawStop group, as I own an ICS and am extremely happy with it. Safety first. A slider goes in that territory too, but not sure if you have the space for it.

    I wouldn't drive that far for a saw, and would have serious concerns about buying a saw sight unseen.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    I would be in on the auction saw. Would also be looking for a slider with what you are willing to pay.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ Area
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    2,505
    Both saws look to be very well cared for. The $1000 one is bolted to the floor, the wiring is in conduit, it's bolted to supports at the right and the seller put the original legs there to. they look to be equivalent but a 15 hour drive each way is expensive. Look at edmunds.com for the full cost per mile of driving. Driving costs a lot more than just gas. There are oil, tires, depreciation. My daughters drove a new'ish Jetta and it was once of the cheaper cars to drive at $.58 per mile. My wife's Suburban at the time was like $1.49 a mile. Unless you have friends where you can stay it's likely you will have hotel expenses too. Now if your truck is worth a couple thousand dollars, then depreciation is very little but then there is a reasonable chance of breakdown.

    Also, I've owned a 1970s Unisaw, a new 1990 PM66, I upgraded in 2005 to a SawStop ICs, and now I have a Felder slider. The ICS was a big upgrade in every way to the 1990 PM66. But a lot more money. I can't talk to the PCS

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,530
    No way would I pay $1000 for a used PM66, unless it was all decked out the way I wanted it. Be prepared to do some work on the saw - replace arbor and motor bearings, replace belts, add a VFD if it’s 3 phase and you don’t have it, thorough rust removal, reface a fence, etc. Not to mention paint if you want it pretty. I’ve fixed up probably about 10 cabinet saws so far, and I really enjoy it, but not all do. You should be able to pretty easily find a used Unisaw with a Bies fence for $500 if you are patient and know where to look. PM are more scarce and ask more money, but still $1000 tops for a saw that doesn’t need anything, but unless I knew and trusted the PO I wouldn’t believe anything about the work that may or may not have been done to it.

    NO WAY should you be spending $2500 all said and done in used 66. $2000k for a used saw is nuts in my option, even some to the 9’s.

  13. #13
    I suspect you will be able to get parts for a Powermatic but I don't really know. What I know is I like my PCS. It is a well made saw, and the safety system saved the end of my left middle finger earlier this year. First table saw accident in about 50 years of woodworking. It can happen. The PCS is a true cabinet saw with the trunnion attached to the cabinet, not the top. With the 36 or 50 inch fence, it is a good sturdy saw. There is a chute around the blade to steer the dust to the dust port and overhead dust collection is available. I use a Colliflower throat plate so I do not have to buy the pricey SawStop ones. I do not like the way the original owner tried to force his saws on us but I like the saw.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    13
    Thanks for the replies. After talking to an old woodworking professor of mine, I believe I’ve got my mind set on a PM 66. If you scroll up to the first 2 pictures on this post, those are pictures of a saw that is for sale 5 hours away from me, which is not terrible. The seller is asking $2000 and is advertising a “hardly used, like new” saw. It is a 5 HP, 3 PHASE saw. What do you guys think of the asking price? Do you think this is worth me going for or should I keep looking? I am just starting building my new shop so don’t have a need for this until the spring, but wouldn’t want to pass up a deal on something that I could store in my current 2 car garage.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Central New Jersey
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    1,009
    Will you have 3 phase power?

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