Don’t use the fast set glue, it will start to glob up before you can get an even spread. Make sure to have plenty at the edges.
Don’t use the fast set glue, it will start to glob up before you can get an even spread. Make sure to have plenty at the edges.
I like Glenn's method. Plus you get your workout, so think of the time you save not going to the gym.
Personally, I think I'd use epoxy, or something like Ultra-CAT™ PPR Veneer Glue (a high-solid content, pre-catalyzed powdered resin veneer glue with an extra long open time) and put it in a vacuum bag over a good reference surface of MDF. That's how I've done it, but fortunately never with a full sheet of plywood. That will give you plenty of open time, then I keep it in the vacuum press overnight. Of course, you have to have the veneer press / vacuum / bags etc...
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Unless this part is going to be stressed in some way, you don't need much glue. I just run a bead around the perimeter and a couple of Xs to hold the center together. Less glue will require much less clamping force. Too much glue causes the glue to flow to areas of less pressure, leaving thick areas. This is even an issue with a vacuum press maiking 14 pounds on every square inch.
I would use water based contact cement on both surfaces and use some 4-6 mil poly as a slip sheet. Then roll the heck out of it with a J roller on a flat surface. If you can't vacuum bag with PVA glue.
NOW you tell me...
I did some lamination with (solvent-based) contact cement when I was first building out my first permanent shop ~30 years ago. It has now failed and delaminating and I'm having to re-make those tabletops and fixtures. (actually it failed more than decade ago and I've been slapping bandaids on it since then until I had time to re-make things). This is consistent with my observation of how long in general it takes for the Formica to fall off of old kitchen counters. So contact cement is fine for temporary things, or if you're old enough that it will outlast you. The joints in those same tables done with titebond are solid as a rock.
Is the water-based stuff a lot better than the old solvent-based adhesive? It sure stank.
Do yourself a favor and buy an inexpensive brayer to spread the glue. Get one with a metal axle versus plastic as the plastic will wear out quickly when rolling a large surface.