"Heirloom" Delta Unisaw 10" 3hp - $250. Is this a good buy?

[Robin Croen]

Hi all, I'm shopping for a used table saw for furniture making. I'm a hobbyist but I've been frustrated in the past with the inaccuracy of hobby-level machines, so I'm searching for a higher-end machine with a used price tag.

I saw this saw come up in my local classifieds. From what I've been told this saw predates 1988 (the date when the current owner was gifted it) and in 1995 the motor was rewound. It hasn't been run since the late 90s, there is currently no cord on the motor so I can't test it or verify what works. Owner claims the fence is good and the table is flat. As you can see from the pictures, its missing a few cover plates on the base. I've heard good things about old Delta Unisaws but not being able to test it makes me leery...

Can anyone offer some opinions on this deal, whether or not its worth taking a risk on this saw?

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[roger wiegand]

Great saws. If it runs, doesn't need bearings, and doesn't have obvious wear and resulting slop in the mechanisms that's a very good price for what I see. If you keep looking you might find one for several hundred more with a Biesemeyer fence or the Delta equivalent, which is a definite upgrade. Unisaws (and PM 66's) were the coveted saw by amateur woodworkers for decades; most of them are still humming. You'll have to find or make a door for better dust collection.

Bring a power cord when you go to see it. Or check the price on a new/used motor, it still might be a decent deal if you have to spend a couple hundred on a motor-- but I'd negotiate a discount or contingency if it doesn't work. All depends on your market, they sell for $5-800 around here working and in good condition; $1200 in great shape with the Biesemeyer fence.

[Robin Croen]

Appreciate the reply. Unfortunately it just sold, I guess I was too slow on the draw... it was only listed for less than a day!

[Alex Zeller]

It's a right tilt saw so that might have caused you issues since most likely the hobby machines that you have been using are most likely left tilt. Nothing you couldn't work through but just wanted to point it out.

[Bob Riefer]

Having bought and used a similar vintage and style saw (Grizzly clone), and then had to repair it later... my experience was:

- Tough learning curve unless you're very comfortable pulling apart machinery like this

- lots of information on the web... almost too much... and most of it written from perspective of people that are very comfortable pulling apart machinery like this

- after so many hours spent (reading parts diagrams, searching online for replacement parts, waiting for parts to arrive, finding the part wasn't quite a fit and that they don't make it anymore, searching for / ordering alternative, asking questions here and other forums, howling at the moon, throwing tantrums)... and $200 in parts... I got the saw really nicely working again and promptly sold it because I had purchased another working saw during the many weeks of anguish


Now, the good news is that I am now very comfortable pulling apart a table saw (although I sincerely hope I rarely have the need... I'd prefer to work wood).


If you're very knowledgeable about these types of saws and how to evaluate them (or have someone you can bring with you that is), and are very willing and comfortable to potentially have to dig into a project... Go for it! Could be a $250 deal!


Conversely... for under $1000 you can probably find something newer that runs, has parts available, and maybe even has youtube videos of common repairs etc.

[David Sochar]

Be aware that, unfortunately, the vagaries of discount capitalism have worked their way into our world and Delta has been unable to supply parts for their equipment for 10 years or more. This means if you just need bearings or electrical, no problem. But if you need a casting or stamping or ? you could have a hard time replicating that part. There are many online companies that will sell you parts for the saw, but they will not be able to deliver the parts in any future we know of.

However, the saws rank high in durability: My Unisaw, new in 1990, has gone thru 3 motors, two sets of arbor bearings, and several sets of belts. It has not needed any parts that were not available. It is used hard daily in an architectural shop.

[Robin Croen]

Conversely... for under $1000 you can probably find something newer that runs, has parts available, and maybe even has youtube videos of common repairs etc.

Hi Bob, I appreciate your candor and I've gone through that same learning curve on a different type of equipment (Chinese laser cutter, in case you're curious)... Not sure if I have it in me to struggle like that again at this time.

I wonder if you all could recommend to me a few options, either new or used, to look for that might be more plug and play and would suit the needs of a hobbyist woodworker with furniture making aspirations. Since I know I'll get asked about budget, I'm oscillating right now between "just get the cheapest thing that works and save up for a better long term saw" and "bite the bullet and go for a Sawstop PCS" or similar... Does that help??

[Alex Zeller]

You kind of need to set a budget. A Sawstop is a very nice saw and it has the added safety feature to prevent injuries. If that's something you value then saving up to get it makes sense. If you were to find a good used cabinet saw for decent price you could always sell it down the road when you have saved up the funds for a new SS. You could look at a used (or new) contractor's saw. There's several out there that would provide the accuracy you'll want. Or you could go the Grizzly route for a new saw. Plenty of people here have had great luck with Grizzly's table saws. There's even woodworking auctions that could get you a used PM66 for not much more than that Unisaw.

[John TenEyck]

My advise is to look for a Unisaw or PM-66 or similar quality saw bought new by a hobby woodworker and that is still under power. Those saws cannot be worn out by a hobbiest if they lived 200 years. You'll be able to see it run and check it out to make sure it's A-OK. You can find abused ones for a few hundred $'s and really, really good ones for around $800. And right tilt is not a show stopper; I like it just fine on mine. If you want to buy new, I'd save up for a SS or slider.

John

[Mike Kees]

Right tilt saws are better if you decide to put a sliding table attachment like the Excalibur on your saw. The blade ends up tilting away from the sliding carriage.

[John Strong]

"bite the bullet and go for a Sawstop PCS" or similar... Does that help??

For what it's worth, I was in a similar situation when I was looking for my table saw. I had previously been using a Shopsmith Mark V and it honestly sketched me out a little. Wanted something a little more substantial but really wasn't looking to shell out too much cash. Found a free delta contractor saw, fixed it up, used it for a little and then bought a Sawstop PCS. (I happened to find one within driving distance on the second hand market, but had been heavily debating buying one new.) Not only is it a great saw, but it allowed me to have some quality time in the shop teaching both my brothers and my girlfriend how to use it and helping them with small projects. I personally heavily valued the Sawstop's little bit of added safety, when it came to my loved ones using the saw. Had I still been using the Shopsmith or the contractor saw, I'm not sure I would have actively encouraged them to join me. So in the end the couple grand spent, was worth it for those added shared experiences. (+ I have a really really nice saw lol)

A little round about, and tangential but good luck finding your next saw!

[Curt Harms]

I'd also keep an eye out for a Grizzly 1023. Grizzly machines can have a shaky reputation and some, especially early ('80s) Grizzly machines deserved that reputation. I don't think G1023s were shaky ones, especially the newer machines. I have a mid-late '90s G1023 and no problem at all.You might find a good used machine for a very good price because of the "all Grizzly is crap" mindset of some.

[Dave Sabo]

Add a location to your profile. It’ll help people gauge your market and advise you. Some places have saws every week (not many btw) and they’re cheap. Others like mine see one or two a month and they sell for rather high prices.

if you want a decent saw today for under a grand - this has a good reputation :
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contr...Saw/1001385562

Concur on the Griz 1023. I’ve never seen many come up for sale anywhere though. You might wait years to see one, and it may or may not be a bargain. Opportunity costs.

Used PM66 and General 350 or 650 are in the same class as the Unisaw. Watch for those too.

If you’re committed to the hobby , I’d say just bite the bullet and order the SawStop. Great saw even w/o the technology , and has better dust collection than any of the old guard saws. It’s not going to depreciate much if any in value over your ownership.

[andy bessette]

...Unfortunately it just sold, I guess I was too slow on the draw... it was only listed for less than a day!

When I saw the title to your thread and began reading your first post I was thinking: "Why are you wasting time posting a question like this? jump on that!"

Watch for a deal on a Unisaw or Powermatic 66. Forget the Griz and Sawstop.

[Matt Day]

If you don’t buy that Uni let us know where it is. I’d be interested if it’s close to me.