Built some pre-finished plywood systainer cabinets and shelving. Stumbled on a damaged butcher block top at Home Depot, got it cheap and fixed it up to span the entire build (90”). Last minute decision - add some 3/4” x 3/8” T-track. With trusty Festool OF 1400 router and FS-OF 1400 Guide Stop, and two guide rails joined together to cover the length, this seemed like an easy task. What I learned:
1) Experts here advise two approaches: cut the full depth in a single pass, or cut a smaller depth and go back for a second pass. I found that a single pass worked fine, with crisp edges and flat bottom using Freud 3/4” straight bit w/ 1/2” shaft. However, in doing this I popped my garage circuit breaker 4 times. What happens is the massive amount of debris created from cutting so deeply causes bunching under the router, which adds more friction to the process and eventually the router draws enough current to pop the 15A breaker. Used a CT MIDI I vacuum w/ 36mm hose - unclear if a higher CFM system would have helped as the large shavings just clogged up at the base of the router opening.
2) Re: two or more passes, tried it on subsequent tracks. I was concerned with damaging the slot with a second pass. As it turned out, using clamped-down guide rails enabled me to make multiple passes very easily with no ill effects. I would not recommend multiple passes using an uncaptured router (for example, running the router along a straight edge or using an edge guide). If you’re experienced enough, no problem. But for mere mortals like me, it’s asking for trouble especially with a 2hp motor in your hands. It only takes a very slight movement to wreck your track line.
3) Use donor pieces on either end, prevents tear-out on the table top edges. This was great advice from the community.
4) Test the router depth carefully on same-size donor material prior to cutting into your precious work piece. I had a loose collet, didn’t notice the bit was slipping downward ever so slightly. Depth kept changing, finally figured it out - all prior to cutting the main board.
5) Use a piece of T-track to set the depth on your router. Just set it on the stop turret and bring the router down until it hits. Lock the router and Bob’s your uncle. If you want a slight recess below the wood surface, use the fine tune knob to add a tiny bit of additional depth.
6) Make sure your guide rail setup is such that the router slides easily all the way across. I used a little Glide-Cote on the rails and it helped significantly. If you don’t check this, you may find the router binding up, which again causes overheating.
7) Ideally, parallel tracks should be parallel to each other - beware of using the table top edges as your guide unless the top is square. In my case the back edge is hidden and isn’t perfectly square. Safer to measure the second track using your first track as the guide.
8) Stop after a few inches - insert a piece of T-track to double check the depth, especially if you’re doing the single-pass method.
Once I got everything dialed in, the actual routing was fun. Stressful as hell, but fun. One last thing - the OF 1400 doesn’t automatically return the trigger to OFF in the event of a power outage. This is a dumb oversight as it’s a safety hazard. When I went outside to reset my breaker the first time, to my horror I heard the router spin up with no one in the garage holding it. Luckily it didn’t buck or it could have easily tumbled to the floor. For this router, if you lose power you should manually check the trigger to ensure it’s back to the OFF state prior to restoring power.
Hope that helps someone.
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