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Thread: Clear on top of Benjamin Moore Cabinet Coat?

  1. #1

    Clear on top of Benjamin Moore Cabinet Coat?

    I'm finishing some nightstands and a dresser with a white finish. The cases are high quality BB with edge banded edges and painted with 2 coats of BIN primer and 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Cabinet Coat, sprayed on.

    The finish looks amazing, but I'm worried that it won't last. I already had one chip on the edge where I banged something into it.

    I read around a little bit and don't really see many comments around adding a clear coat on top. Was looking at General Finishes High Performance Top Coat in satin, which should work well for the sheen that I want, and also work well with the Cabinet Coat.

    Any experience with this? It wouldn't be a big deal at all for me to throw 2 coats of clear on top of these, and I think it would help the finish hold up quite a bit more. Or am I incorrect in this, and I should just add one more potentially thicker layer of Cabinet Coat on top of what I have now, and leave it alone.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Chipping suggests a bond problem. I doubt adding something on top is going to prevent it from happening again. I would go make some sample boards to evaluate your options. I wouldn't be surprised if you find there is a bonding problem between the primer and topcoat you used, or maybe in the process you used - sanded too smooth, etc.

    John

  3. #3
    The primer and topcoat shouldn't have any issues, as that's what everyone recommended.

    I could have certainly sanded a little too smooth though, especially in the corner areas. So if this has happened, what's the way to fix it? Should I just sand the whole thing with 120 for a bit and respray it? Do I need to sand ALL the paint off?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    IF it's a bond problem, and I can't think of why else you would get chips, then the only solution I know of is to start over. But before doing that I would make up a couple of sample boards. Make one of them as close as you can to your project. Make the other with your raw wood sanded to 150 grit and unless you have runs do not sand the primer beyond a scuff sand with 325 or 400 to knock off any nibs. With both of them leave some of the edges exactly like on your project, but sand a small chamfer or radius on some others. (This assumes you left the corners very crisp on your project. If not, disregard.)

    Let them sit for at least 3 days, then try whacking the edges to see if you can to see if you can reproduce the chipping. If so, are both samples just as easily chipped? Do you get chips more easily on the sharp or radiused edges? If so, just round off the edges, feather on some primer, and spray another coat of finish if you can keep it within the allowable total build thickness.

    If you get chips everywhere I would say the primer and topcoat aren't compatible.

    If the sample sanded to 150 grit has no or fewer chips than how you prepped your project then you sanded the substrate or primed surfaces too smooth. In both cases the solution is to start over.

    So why did you do these tests? Because you will know where the problem is. Either you need to change primer, or you need to change your sanding, or you need to round over the edges more.

    John

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