Need a hardened torx bit

[Doug Dawson]

Thanks for all this advice.
I used a torque wrench to install the screws, this one last one just likes it where it is.
I'll be in the shop tomorrow and I'll try some of the ideas here.
Today I'm dealing with a plumbing issue at home.... much scarier!

What machine is this? And what torque wrench were you using? (If the torque wrench is used too low in its range, it’s possible to over-torque something quite dramatically. That’s significant to possibly prevent this from recurring.)

[Ed Edwards]

I agree with Lee and Ben verify the right size and style of the bolt. It wouldn't hurt to use a liquid spray to soak it. And as a few have said, use a hand impact. Pretension the wrench to the left and give a good hammer shot. The other if possible is to put it in the freezer for a few hours or better yet overnight.
Ed

[Doug Dawson]

Impact driver such as used in automotive work (not an impact wrench, an impact driver). Snap-On torx bits are the best I’ve ever used. +1 on making sure if it’s torx or torx plus. Would it be worthwhile to invest in a torque screwdriver? I don’t have any replaceable inserts, if I did I’m sure I would overtighten them like I do everything else.

Kobalt (at Lowes, oh yeah _that_ Kobalt :^) also makes IMO very good torx sockets (yeah sockets) and you don’t have to chase the tool truck around (you can call Snap-On via their web site, for a local distributor, if you really wanted to do that.) They just fit right, and you’re not going to break them.

Just like good barbecue, low and slow.

BTW, an impact driver is a mechanical device that, when struck heavily with a hammer, imparts both a downwards and rotational force to the fastener. Very useful for brake work (I have one.) I’m not sure I’d want to do that to an otherwise functional precision cutter head, FWIW. Just sayin’.

[Mark Gibney]

It's a Hermance head. I used the torque wrench that came with it, I'd have to check on what make it is.
There is just one insert stuck, all the rest came free easily, so no doubt it was operator error.

[andrew whicker]

Oh, you're looking for something that isn't designed to be a throw-away in the global economy?

Bold Move.

[Erik Loza]

Off-topic and late but I would personally use a little anti-seize paste on all my screws. Not enough to sling out, just enough to coat the threads. Good luck with it.

Erik

[Frank Pratt]

BTW, an impact driver is a mechanical device that, when struck heavily with a hammer, imparts both a downwards and rotational force to the fastener. Very useful for brake work (I have one.) I’m not sure I’d want to do that to an otherwise functional precision cutter head, FWIW. Just sayin’.

An impact driver especially excels at loosening Phillips screws that are seized.

[Doug Dawson]

An impact driver especially excels at loosening Phillips screws that are seized.

Used as intended, there is the potential to damage the bearings. It’s not a car. :^)

[Doug Dawson]

It's a Hermance head. I used the torque wrench that came with it, I'd have to check on what make it is.
There is just one insert stuck, all the rest came free easily, so no doubt it was operator error.

That’s a Hermance helical head? Wow, those cost more than my entire PM 15HH new... I would definitely treat it with reverence. I looked at it, and they are _very_ chintzy with their online service information. It might be worth calling them.

[Bill Space]

Used as intended, there is the potential to damage the bearings. It’s not a car. :^)

There is a great difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench...

[Mark Gibney]

What anti-seize paste do you recommend? - and bear in mind this was just one insert. Is anti-seize paste used regularly in this regard? I hadn't heard of it used for jointer heads before.

Also, I coated the thread with a little machine oil before they were installed, so this is now on both the male and female threads. I imagine this might complicate using anti-seize paste.

[Mark Gibney]

And we have a winner. A whack with a hammer and a nail set and off it came.
Thanks Stewart.
IMG_8462.jpg

[Scott T Smith]

Mark, my Oliver jointer planer has 340 inserts. It takes the better part of a day to clean the heads and turn them all. The best bits that I've found are Felo bits from Germany. My local industrial supply house stocks them and they are significantly better for this task than any other bit that I've tried (and I've tried about every brand out there).

Usually a 12V Milwaukee impact will remove them, but the stubborn ones get removed with the automotive style impact where you hit the head with a hammer while twisting the body. If the bit breaks then we will break the carbide with a chisel. I have not opted for anti-seize because I've never had a problem with the threads galling or binding. I use LPS2 on the threads though during reassembly.

[Jerry Bruette]

What anti-seize paste do you recommend? - and bear in mind this was just one insert. Is anti-seize paste used regularly in this regard? I hadn't heard of it used for jointer heads before.

Also, I coated the thread with a little machine oil before they were installed, so this is now on both the male and female threads. I imagine this might complicate using anti-seize paste.

Just remember that using any type of lubricant or anti seize compound changes torque. You could be over torquing when using these lubricants.

[Alex Zeller]

Just out of curiosity has anyone had or heard of an insert loosening up? It seams like they are always too tight. Maybe out of fear of what would become a dangerous projectile? I always assumed that long before it actually launched across the room (or into the dust collector) the surface of the board would show signs that something wasn't right.