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Thread: Shop reorganization and dust collection

  1. #1

    Shop reorganization and dust collection

    5B45B83D-F0B4-4475-AEFA-5B4F80D6A92D.jpgHey guys and girls! This is kind of a multipart thread so I apologize for the jumping around. I’m trying to reorganize my space and make some big decisions as far tools (upgrades and downgrades) and dust collection. I have a small oversized one car garage shop that I’m trying to reorganize to be more efficient and I want to add a nice plumbed dust collection system (either clearvue cv1800 or Oneida super dust gorilla). I have a dust right 1250 1 stage and it doesn’t provide enough suction for the jointer plus it’s not the cleanest or most efficient. Right now I have a sawstop contractor saw with 36” rails and it takes up a ton of space. Right now all my tools are on wheels but I’d love to have a layout that would work a little better and more efficient. My shop is 13’3” wide by 25’ deep. I did a quick layout on graph paper and I think that would work, but I’m contemplating something huge, and that might be getting rid of my table saw and just using my bandsaw OR getting a smaller table saw OR cutting the rails down on the sawstop to fit my needs. I generally use my table saw for essentially 4 squaring stock and most of joinery I do by hand unless I have a huge amount of tenons or something I need to cut. Occasionally I’ll use it for dadoes but I usually do them by hand or with a router. I just keep thinking to myself that it seems silly to have a 36” rip capacity table saw taking up a huge chunk of my shop when I rarely rip much more than 12”-15” wide. I feel like if I had to rip wider than that, I would just grab my festool track saw. Or Possibly then just use my bandsaw for ripping down stock and then a quick pass on the jointer. I have a portable dewalt table saw I could use IF and when I needed to rip down a bunch of stock quickly in a pinch. Am I crazy for considering selling my table saw in sake of space? As far as the other tools I have:
    Grizzly 0555x bandsaw, grizzly 12” jointer with helical head, dewalt 735 planer with shelix cutter head, Bosch glide miter saw, shop fox standing drill press, my workbench. I’ll attach a pic of the layout I came up with on graph paper shortly as soon as I figure out how to attach pics from my phone

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Posts
    989
    Watch the height requirements on tall cyclones. (you'll often need clearance above the motor for air circulation, as well)

    I'd give serious thought to pushing your table saw so that it is against a wall.
    My J/P is currently against a wall, and pulled out when needed.
    This will help to declutter the center of your shop.

    If you use handtools a lot, do you need an assembly table? (helps to keep your workbench decluttered)

    Matt

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    452
    I have seen many small (narrow) shops with the TS positioned with the right end up against the wall. Some never have to move it.

    You didn't mention a router table/shaper, but if you want to use a router table/extension wing on your table saw, obviously it would be best if mounted on the left end (assuming right end is against the wall).

    I have a sheet of 1/4" plywood the size of my table saw that I used to throw on top of it when I wanted an assembly table. I now have a second workbench that doubles as an assembly table.

    If you like having your table saw in the middle of the shop, consider orienting it diagonally, to increase both rip and crosscut stock length capacity.

    I would not get rid of my only table saw. Neither the bandsaw or the miter saw will dado. If you have a shaper or router table, then it can do your dados. I have a Bench Dog router table extension on my Unisaw, with an Incra Mast-R-Lift-II-R lift, and it works very well for me. SawStop has a very similar extension. I'm starting to use it more for things I used to use the dado blade. But my dado blade can be shimmed to get the right width in one pass for a lot of cuts.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Black Oak Ark.
    Posts
    254
    My 2 cents . Yep - you'd be nuts to dump a Saw Stop ( even the contractor model ) , go to a job site saw - all to save space ! My first move would be move the planer to a wall , roll it out when needed . Move the workbench to the spot vacated by the planer . Next , decide on a path for DC . You can upgrade without spending $2000 + . If you have the height , Clear Vue and Oneida kick ass . But if you are staying in that small space long term , thats alot of DC - loud too . For me the DC dictates somewhat where tools may go , which ones may be ducted , which ones might roll to be nearer the DC for occasional use . I'd also make a small outfeed table that would be used 1000 different ways . Good luck moving forward .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,512
    Blog Entries
    1
    Right side of the table saw has been my standard for so long I rarely think of a layout without it. Even my new planned layout has the power and DC drops at the right side of the saw.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #6
    I appreciate the feedback. I think I found a layout that will work keeping the table saw and you’re right, move it with the right side against the wall and it works well. My next focus has been dust collection and like I said, I’d like to upgrade to something that has better airflow as well as filtering capability. This was spawned by adding the grizzly 12” jointer to my shop and my dust right 1250 cfm doesn’t move enough air to remove the chips so it clogs up and throws the chips back up in your face which then requires me to clean it out regularly after only a little bit of use and it’s a pain in the ass. I currently have the 5” port on the jointer reduced to 4” which I think isn’t helping either. So I’ve considered adding a Oneida Super Dust Gorilla Pro 5HP and adding ducting to the shop, but $5000-$6000 on total cost is just staggering. The other thing is that in the next 3-5 years, I’d love to expand my shop to much larger which means all the ductwork I’d be purchasing right now might be null and void when I move to the new shop, so then I’ve considered buying a smaller portable unit that could handle the jointer and offer some hepa fine dust filtration for a few years and then add the larger unit and ducting when I build the larger shop. The Oneida supercell or portable dust gorilla mini or gorilla 3hp mobile cyclone has caught my eye as MAYBE a good solution. I’ve seen A few videos on the supercell on a 15” jointer and it completely cleared all the chips. The jointer I have recommends 400 cfm and the supercell pulls right above that at 465 cfm at that when hooked up to 4” hose. It might be a good semi-mid term solution to what I need potentially. It’s only me in a small shop and I’ve never run more than one tool at a time. I just am torn on spending the money now because The jointer issue and the health issues from the fine dust makes me want to do something now.
    Last edited by Greg Berlin; 12-01-2020 at 8:07 PM.

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