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Thread: Inca LS-25 Positioner for SC2 Classic Sliding Saw

  1. #16
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    Not moving it sounds like a sound practice for the moment as long as it's in a spot that doesn't generally get in your way and poke you in the kidneys right during an important cut.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Not moving it sounds like a sound practice for the moment as long as it's in a spot that doesn't generally get in your way and poke you in the kidneys right during an important cut.
    No, I haven't had that happen! I'm used to it being there at this point. Now, the miter fence, that's a different story. That I would love to just leave on there 99% of the time, but that sticks out too far for my shop and I've run into that a handful of times. So that hangs on the wall when not in use.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Wurster View Post
    Before I got the saw I read a few comments here and there about people having trouble with this auxiliary table and that they simply don't move it or remove it after getting it setup the first time. I know Marius Hornberger of YouTube fame has the small K3 and hangs his table up when not in use, but I've never seen a video of him dealing with installing or removing the table.

    At the very minimum, I would like to be able to replace the position adjusting bolts with ones that are smooth on the wagon side and threaded on the table side, but with a hex head embedded in the end of that threaded side, similar to how the outrigger is done. That would allow for better setup. And of course some way to make the actual securing bolts stay completely horizontal when not in use. I can probably rig that up with just a piece of wood in the T-slot with threaded openings, assuming I have the proper tap on hand. In the meantime though, I'm just leaving the table where it is. lol
    Steve,

    In Sam's video below, he removes the positioner from the table. I had considered this method, but since the tables are inexpensive, easy to attach and remove, and retain alignment, I decided to permanently attach the positioner and make the table removable. If my saw had a table as difficult to remove as the K3, I would have used Sam's method.


  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kreinhop View Post
    but since the tables are inexpensive,

    Maybe in your geography...not here in North America! If it wasn't bundled with the machine, it's a lot of shekels to acquire any of these accessories. My S315WS didn't come with the small aux table and while I don't recall what the cost was to obtain it after the fact, it was, um...pricy. So I built one for my original parallel jig out of plywood, since retired in favor of just using my Fritz and Franz for now.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kreinhop View Post
    Steve,

    In Sam's video below, he removes the positioner from the table. I had considered this method, but since the tables are inexpensive, easy to attach and remove, and retain alignment, I decided to permanently attach the positioner and make the table removable. If my saw had a table as difficult to remove as the K3, I would have used Sam's method.
    I've seen that video, and actually emailed Sam about it; he was nice enough to reply pretty quickly, in fact! I had thought about going this route and attempting to drill holes in the table. The design of the table didn't seem to me to be very amenable to this method however. That is, with the way the LS Positioner gets connected via "upside down" T-slots, I wasn't sure I could easily and readily reattach it each time. I wondered if Kipp levers or something under the table would work, but there's not much space under that table to begin with.

    The table for the K3 is $114 at the moment. Too expensive for me to want to buy another one unless I knew for sure that I would love this method more than just using my F&F. But given how much of a pain that table is to remove, align, and reattach, I just went with a simple plywood-based "frame" that hangs off the T-slot, and my positioner sits on top of that. It works well enough, although I'll admit I don't even use this all that often.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Maybe in your geography...not here in North America! If it wasn't bundled with the machine, it's a lot of shekels to acquire any of these accessories. My S315WS didn't come with the small aux table and while I don't recall what the cost was to obtain it after the fact, it was, um...pricy. So I built one for my original parallel jig out of plywood, since retired in favor of just using my Fritz and Franz for now.
    I'd have to dig out my receipts, but I think I paid about €80 for each table. Of course, expensive is relative, but when compared to the cost of purchasing and shipping the LS-25 to me, the table was a bargain.

  7. #22
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    Mike, just the dado insert for my saw sells for something like $300 for here. We're talking a piece of aluminum about 20" long and 2" wide and not all that thick. I wish I could remember what the small aux cable cost but it way north of the equivalent of 80 Euros for sure! I hear you on the shipping costs for stuff that's not normally available in your region, having bought a few things from the UK from time to time.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
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    Does anyone know whether the SC2 auxiliary table will fit or can be modified to fit the Hammer K3. It looks a much nicer table but the height of the t slot from the top of the slider may be different
    Ron

  9. #24

    Kammer K3 auxiliary table mounting

    Before I got the saw I read a few comments here and there about people having trouble with this auxiliary table and that they simply don't move it or remove it after getting it setup the first time. I know Marius Hornberger of YouTube fame has the small K3 and hangs his table up when not in use, but I've never seen a video of him dealing with installing or removing the table.

    At the very minimum, I would like to be able to replace the position adjusting bolts with ones that are smooth on the wagon side and threaded on the table side, but with a hex head embedded in the end of that threaded side, similar to how the outrigger is done. That would allow for better setup. And of course some way to make the actual securing bolts stay completely horizontal when not in use. I can probably rig that up with just a piece of wood in the T-slot with threaded openings, assuming I have the proper tap on hand. In the meantime though, I'm just leaving the table where it is. lol
    Steve's right; the OEM mounting system for the K3 auxiliary table is a PITA to mount and remove. The issue is that there's just too many fastener bits to deal with all at once when reattaching the table.

    Here's my fix: Use Nylock nuts for the adjusting fasteners; the hex bolt heads bear against the slider, and the Nylocks secure them from the inside of the table. Set 'em once and you're done forever. Then it's pretty easy to do the mod using a piece of 3/8 x 3/4 aluminum bar stock and a couple of 5/16-18 Kip fasteners. Clearance drill the table for the Kip studs; then drill and tap the aluminum bar. I remove the Kip levers from their "nuts" so its easy to hand tighten the splined nuts and then cinch them up the last turn with a lever. This setup is totally repeatable and takes about a minute to remove or replace. All the bits are always assembled together in one package that slides into the slider from one end so there's no faffing around with loose parts.
    IMG_2234.jpgIMG_2233.jpg

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Peters View Post
    Steve's right; the OEM mounting system for the K3 auxiliary table is a PITA to mount and remove. The issue is that there's just too many fastener bits to deal with all at once when reattaching the table.

    Here's my fix: Use Nylock nuts for the adjusting fasteners; the hex bolt heads bear against the slider, and the Nylocks secure them from the inside of the table. Set 'em once and you're done forever. Then it's pretty easy to do the mod using a piece of 3/8 x 3/4 aluminum bar stock and a couple of 5/16-18 Kip fasteners. Clearance drill the table for the Kip studs; then drill and tap the aluminum bar. I remove the Kip levers from their "nuts" so its easy to hand tighten the splined nuts and then cinch them up the last turn with a lever. This setup is totally repeatable and takes about a minute to remove or replace. All the bits are always assembled together in one package that slides into the slider from one end so there's no faffing around with loose parts.
    Nice solution Don. I wondered if there was some "easy" way to just use a solid bar inside the T-slot like that, but never bothered to try to do it with that auxiliary table. The only "difficult" part is drilling those holes in the right spot so everything lines up correctly, but that should be doable without too much effort. Of course the annoying part becomes having to slide that thing in and out from the far end of the wagon each time you want to use it, but that might be the price to pay for repeatability like this.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Peters View Post
    Steve's right; the OEM mounting system for the K3 auxiliary table is a PITA to mount and remove. The issue is that there's just too many fastener bits to deal with all at once when reattaching the table.

    Here's my fix: Use Nylock nuts for the adjusting fasteners; the hex bolt heads bear against the slider, and the Nylocks secure them from the inside of the table. Set 'em once and you're done forever. Then it's pretty easy to do the mod using a piece of 3/8 x 3/4 aluminum bar stock and a couple of 5/16-18 Kip fasteners. Clearance drill the table for the Kip studs; then drill and tap the aluminum bar. I remove the Kip levers from their "nuts" so its easy to hand tighten the splined nuts and then cinch them up the last turn with a lever. This setup is totally repeatable and takes about a minute to remove or replace. All the bits are always assembled together in one package that slides into the slider from one end so there's no faffing around with loose parts.
    IMG_2234.jpgIMG_2233.jpg
    Nice solution Don! From the first image, it looks like you have room in the slotted holes between the Kip lever nuts and the edge of the table to add a short standoff to ride in the T-track and set the height. Maybe a two hex head bolts and nylon lock washers will work as long as the heads of the bolts don't extend through the T-track and interfere with the aluminum bar.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Boulton View Post
    Does anyone know whether the SC2 auxiliary table will fit or can be modified to fit the Hammer K3. It looks a much nicer table but the height of the t slot from the top of the slider may be different
    Ron

    I'm almost certain it won't work, due to the reason you mentioned. This is the comparable OEM piece for Hammer sliders, by the way: https://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-U...e-Extends.html

    Hope this helps,

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  13. #28
    Yes, it has to slide in from the far end. That only takes the first 10 seconds, again because you're not trying to align a bunch of individual fasteners and slots. Mine is configured so that the fasteners that secure the flat bar are at the correct height to place the top of the auxiliary table generally coplanar with the top of the slider. Be aware that the table is just a fairly crude fabrication. A straight edge will quickly disclose that the dimensions and accuracy vary from corner to corner. So as long as the table top doesn't end up higher than the slider, you're okay. Don't overthink it.

    I used 5/16 fasteners passing through 5/16ø holes. The track slot is 3/8, so there's a tiny bit of wiggle room. I haven't seen any need for locator pins, etc. Measure carefully, center punch and use sharp twist drills and a sharp tap. Use cutting oil for the holes in the table and tallow for the aluminum. It isn't rocket science. The steel in the table is just unhardened mild steel, so you could file the clearance holes if you're off slightly. If you totally screw it up, move the holes and do it over.

  14. #29
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    Done, those are similar fasteners that SCM/Minimax uses for accessories. Very convenient!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Wurster View Post
    Nice solution Don. I wondered if there was some "easy" way to just use a solid bar inside the T-slot like that, but never bothered to try to do it with that auxiliary table. The only "difficult" part is drilling those holes in the right spot so everything lines up correctly, but that should be doable without too much effort. Of course the annoying part becomes having to slide that thing in and out from the far end of the wagon each time you want to use it, but that might be the price to pay for repeatability like this.
    I realize this thread is nearly a year old, but here is a video by Marius Hornberger with his solution for the K3 auxiliary table. I think his solution makes adding and removing the table easier than the Minimax, and I might adopt his method for the clamps. Skip to 21:45 for the segment about the table modification.



    My update: Since adding the LS positioner to my saw, I haven't needed or used the rip fence. I still haven't built a F&F jig, but it is on my list of things to do after I finish my shop expansion.

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