Router table top material

[Myles Moran]

Turns out my old Ryobi router table that I drilled out to hold my bosch 1617 is pretty far from flat. Enough that it affects function and I've been avoiding using it (I really only use it to round over stock for loose tenons). Plus I've had the e clip issue with my 1617 in the table, so I'm ready to upgrade.

After lots and lots of reading and searching I'm basically down to 2 options. The woodpeckers system, and the infinity tool system. I like the infinity being set up for the power feeder attachment (I can definitely see using that in the future). I slightly prefer the woodpecker lift, but I can always buy piecemeal and have that lift (there is also tons of discussion comparing the two to read). I am leaning towards the woodpecker table because the MDF from what I've read will be more stable than the baltic birch, but I'm also not sure how much of a problem that would be - my shop is in my basement and I do control the humidity in my house fairly well. I do prefer the metal stand of both over a shop built solution - I'll add a plywood shelf and store router bits on it in their case and in he foam insert I currently use. I have enough projects cued up that building my own stand isn't in the works.

All that said, looking at the tops, will the MDF be more stable than the baltic birch enough that I should let it sway my decision? Or will both function good enough that I'll never notice any issues and be able to have a functional router table for years to come?

[Derek Cohen]

Myles, I went to a business making kitchen counter tops and was given a cut-off. The great advantage of this material - which is resin-impregnated, I imagine - is that it is waterproof, impervious to changes in humidity, and machines well. And at a good price (free) ...







Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

Both materials may sag over time if not fully supportive. The router, plate or lift, etc., are "not lightweight" and when they are suspended in the air from the table top, gravity does what gravity does. Most of these commercial router table tops are also a single layer of the material they are made from...all of the shop made surfaces I've done over the years were always a double layer laminated with appropriate adhesive. The extra thickness combined with proper support can really make sagging less of a risk over time.

MDF, BTW, absorbs moisture pretty readily unless it's a special exterior type. Plywood will absorb moisture, too, but not quite the same as with MDF. Neither material is "perfect" in that respect. Covering both sides with laminate helps a lot and so does making sure the edges are sealed or also covered with laminate.

[Myles Moran]

Derek, good point on the countertop material. I'll have to check around because that's a lot more economical than what I was looking at.

Jim, what sort of adhesive is the appropriate for laminating 2 layers of MDF? The same contact cement for putting on the HPL? And would the rubber edging material protect against moisture, or would I have to do laminate or hardwood (ala norms table) to protect the edges?

Also, I now realize that any table is powerfeeder ready with a brad point but and a set of bolts, so that points me towards the woodpeckers table, and emotional prep to build a new table in the future. Or buying stuff piecemeal and building a top.

[Curt Harms]

Running angle iron on either side of the plate opening helps with any sagging. I have them running front to back. I suppose there could be some sag side to side but I haven't noticed it.

[Tom Bain]

I have the woodpeckers set-up. The table and fence are great, but not a huge fan of the lift. At some point down the road I plan to replace with a Jessem.

[Tom M King]

I really like the synthetic bowling alley material. It's slicker than Formica, and a Really hard solid ceramic. The downside is the fake woodgrain, but it's not so bad. It does need some support under it, because it's only 1/2" (or so) thick. Price was right too, at free from the jobsite where they were redoing a bowling alley. They were otherwise going to have to dispose of it with their own time.

[Dave Sabo]

I really like the synthetic bowling alley material

never heard of this ?

I thought the lanes were always made from hard rock maple. I confess I'm not even a casual bowler, so pardon my ignorance on the subject.

[Stan Calow]

Sometimes Habitat ReStore will have cutouts or sections of countertops for dirt cheap.

[Erik Loza]

Is phenolic-faced ply available in your area?

Erik

[Jim Becker]

While you can use normal PVA for laminating two layers of MDF the normally slick surface can make for a slower cure, etc. Sanding the surfaces with 80 grit can help. Or you can just use contact cement...applied thinly and evenly. You can also use epoxy, polyurethane glue (Gorrila or similar), etc. to do the deed. what's most important when you are laminating panels is that you use cauls, etc., to clamp the assembly down to a known flat surface until the adhesive cures. You don't want to "glue a bend" into the panel assembly.

The thicker pre-made counter type assemblies are certainly worthy, either as off cuts or bought new. Even Ikea is a good source for those! I use an offcut from an Ikea countertop I used for a bathroom renovation for my bandsaw outfeed and it's been rock solid stable in my shop for a long time.