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Thread: Knock down staked Roman workbench. Am I CRAZY??!!

  1. #31
    The low Roman workbench is finished. It’s made from two 2x12x12ft doug fir boards laminated together. It’s 6 – ½ ft long, 10-3/4 inches wide and 22” tall. I went with the tapered leg tenons, unglued and unwedged. They work absolutely perfectly and in hindsight I don’t know why I fretted so much over this. They’ve gone in and out two dozen times and it’s always been rock solid. I’ve got three spring loaded dogs at the end of the bench and then the classic bunch holes for wedging wood.

    A couple unusual features for a Roman workbench:

    1st, instead of ordinary pegs, I made pop up pegs that are just like the dogs, but longer and without the flat face. The main advantage is being able to fix them at any height, including below the surface of the face of a board (useful for something like using a router plane, by way of example). They are also never in the way as I just sink them below the surface of the bench rather than having to remove them if I need the area clear. I’ve seen other people with like six or seven pegs to accommodate different heights, but I only need just the three this way.

    2nd, I put an apron on the end. The number one complaint I read about Roman benches is trying to do joinery – particularly dovetails and tenons. You can put a tapered notch on the side of the bench for this kind of work, and that was my initial plan. However, after lots of videos and blogs, I discovered that while they technically work, they are still fairly compromised – particularly with anything other than narrow boards. To get around this problem I’ve seen people add a straight up vise to the end, but this was unappealing to my inner-caveman. The default option is doing this work horizontally (ugh). So I added an apron for holdfasts. It was a bit of a geometry puzzle, but it turns out that just those two very precisely placed holes allow me a mind-boggling array of work holding positions for every conceivable circumstance I could possibly come up with – and a few inconceivable ones as well. The joint is ridiculously strong, but after considering the years of mallet whacking this thing will take I went back and added a little bracing to the backside.

    I hadn’t planned on making this so quickly, but there were some surprise cub scout woodworking projects sprung upon me. Part of my motivation for this bench, which I hadn’t mentioned before, was my 3rd grade son. I’m NBA sized and so is my Roubo bench at 42” tall. That meant anything my son did required doing it from the top step of a step stool which made positioning his body difficult and was generally annoying. We did a cub scout project yesterday and this bench was just WAY better for him.

    It’s fun to work on. It’s amazing how effective three pegs and a triangular wedge can be at holding work. It’s almost like a brain-teaser figuring out where to put the peg holes to maximize their efficiency – and they REALLY hold the work well. In fact, while I’ve used the holdfasts on the apron a couple times, I have yet to need them on the top to hold anything.

    roman1.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    1,378
    Looks great. I'd be tempted to find it a semi-permanent place in the family room

    So for cutting dove tails, say on a drawer side, you would use hold fasts against the apron? How high above the bench would you extend the top of the board? I'm fascinated by this little bench. Thanks for circling back and giving us an update.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe A Faulkner View Post
    Looks great. I'd be tempted to find it a semi-permanent place in the family room

    So for cutting dove tails, say on a drawer side, you would use hold fasts against the apron? How high above the bench would you extend the top of the board? I'm fascinated by this little bench. Thanks for circling back and giving us an update.
    Yes, the holdfasts on the apron. As for height, it's really not much different than cutting dovetails on a regular bench because when sitting the bench top is at about the wrist bone level. So I'd say whatever height you normally place your stock to cut dovetails at would work just fine.

    Really the only change is that my bench is narrower than my shoulders so in order to keep my arm properly aligned I need to scooch my butt over to the left a little so I'm kind of sitting more on my right sit bone instead of both (with the stock on the right side of the apron). But this morning I stumbled onto just sitting side-saddle style with both legs over the left side of the bench. This was insanely comfortable and easy to cut straight.

    A couple pics showing how stock can be held for cutting dovetails.
    roman dovetails 1.jpgroman dovetails 2.jpg

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
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    1,048
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe A Faulkner View Post
    .. I'm fascinated by this little bench....
    In case you're unaware, (I don't see it explicitly mentioned here,) there's a whole book on the subject:

    Ingenious Mechanicks by Christopher Scwarz.

    Also, he's made (the most relevant) part of it available free:

    Free Download: ‘Roman Workbenches’

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    1,378
    Thanks David. I caught his demo of the bench on Roy Underhills show, but I was not aware of his book. Thanks for the tip

  6. #36
    Chris,

    Looks good. Congrats,

    ken

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by David Bassett;3082048

    Also, he's made (the most relevant) part of it available free:

    [URL="https://blog.lostartpress.com/2019/07/24/free-download-roman-workbenches/"
    Free Download: ‘Roman Workbenches’[/URL]
    The “Roman Workbenches” doc was a great resource for me when working on this bench. That said, if anyone decides to build a Roman bench, I would not use the hole pattern diagramed in it.

  8. #38
    It takes me all of 80 seconds to push the shop vac out of the way, haul it out into the middle of the room, assemble it, and be ready to go. It takes 75 to put it away. I've carried it around the house and it's super easy. The storage footprint is a whopping 11" x 12"
    storage.jpg
    No idea why the photo is sideways.....

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,454
    Blog Entries
    1
    No idea why the photo is sideways.....
    Me neither:

    storage.jpg

    Though it isn't hard to fix.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
    Posts
    1,566
    Please do keep us up to date on leg tenon/ top mortise fit and ultimate bench stability with the changing seasons. I hope it works, I really do hope it works.

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Winners View Post
    Please do keep us up to date on leg tenon/ top mortise fit and ultimate bench stability with the changing seasons. I hope it works, I really do hope it works.
    I think I can probably answer that question already. When I bought the lumber a month ago my intent was to leave it my basement and let it get mostly dry before I built the bench. However, Cub Scouts gave my son a few woodworking projects and this necessitated just buying the wood and building right away. When I bought it the lumber was averaging 19% moisture compared to the DF apron on my Roubo bench (same thickness) of 12% (based on the settings I used). I just checked and (probably thanks to the forced air heat running constantly) it has already reached equilibrium at 12% (same settings, which matches the other old DF in my shop). I think that’s a considerably bigger moisture change than I would ever get with fully dry wood from seasonal change indoors. And I can also say that there has been no change in how well the legs wedge in the holes.

    I’m in Maryland so we have crazy humid summers and dry as a bone winters. Because of forced air/heat the dry indoor air is middle of summer and middle of winter. The uncomfortable humid times here late spring and early fall when it’s warm out, but the air doesn’t run because it’s just not quite hot enough, so it gets more humid indoors. I intend on using this bench outside when the weather is good and it will be interesting to see if the 99% humidity we get in the summer will do anything to it. It’s so easily portable that I have no intentions of ever leaving it out overnight. But I seriously doubt leaving it outside all summer (rain notwithstanding) would get it above the moisture it was when I first built it.

    But if anything changes in the leg connections, I’ll be sure to update.

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