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Thread: Black Friday, what/where to buy my first Nova Chuck for bowl turning?

  1. #16
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    I have used a SN2 on a Delta midi lathe with no problems. Rockler has a super deal right now on the SN2 for $120.00. They are backordered, but you can reserve one at the sale price.
    https://www.rockler.com/nova-supernova-2-insert-chuck

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Steffen View Post
    ...
    2 questions:
    1: do you have any opinions on the Nova Pro-Tek version of the SN2?

    2: Do you have any opinion of using the SN2 on a midi lathe like my Laguna 1216? I could imagine it cause some extra stress on the bearings, but i would figure once the lathe got the extra mass rotating, it wouldn't affect things much.....thoughts?
    I've never heard of the Nova Pro-Tek SN2. I did notice the last two SN2s I bought were a little different, with some laser engraving not on the earlier chucks.

    You should easily use the SN2 on that lathe. I don't think there would be any extra bearing stress. Bearing stress comes from heavy out-of-balance chunks of wood turned aggressively and possibly at dangerously high speeds with over-tightened tailstock and massive beginner catches! When I think about it, there is no difference between lighter weight chuck holding a slightly heavier turning blank compared to a heavier chuck holding a slightly lighter weight chunk of wood. Even the jet mini lathe handles the SN2 chuck just fine. (I have two minis for carrying places and loaning out and I've used the SN2 chucks on both)

    JKJ

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I've never heard of the Nova Pro-Tek SN2. I did notice the last two SN2s I bought were a little different, with some laser engraving not on the earlier chucks.

    You should easily use the SN2 on that lathe. I don't think there would be any extra bearing stress. Bearing stress comes from heavy out-of-balance chunks of wood turned aggressively and possibly at dangerously high speeds with over-tightened tailstock and massive beginner catches! When I think about it, there is no difference between lighter weight chuck holding a slightly heavier turning blank compared to a heavier chuck holding a slightly lighter weight chunk of wood. Even the jet mini lathe handles the SN2 chuck just fine. (I have two minis for carrying places and loaning out and I've used the SN2 chucks on both)

    JKJ
    Sweet! that sounds like it makes sense to me.

    here's a link to the pro-tek, https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-pro-tek-series/

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Steffen View Post
    Sweet! that sounds like it makes sense to me.

    here's a link to the pro-tek, https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-pro-tek-series/
    From the picture that chuck looks identical to the one I bought in May for $138 but without the insert which is about $25. The engraved markings look identical. The other difference are the inclusion of Torx screws for the jaws instead of Allen screws, better dovetail on the inside of the 50mm jaws, has a case and apparently comes with a cleaning cloth. As I keep my chucks in drawers, the case would go in the trash (unless I could cut out any internal molding and use it for something else). If the case doesn't hold the chuck with the jaws attached it seems it would be especially useless. The Torx screws might be nice if you changed jaws a lot.

    The writeup claims "Intuitive clockwise scroll rotation for ease of use" making me wonder if they've switched the direction of rotation to the opposite of there existing line of chucks or if those are just words. (Some complain that Nova chucks are "backwards" compared to other models but if all my chucks are the same that doesn't matter). With any chuck one direction is always going to be backwards depending on whether you are tightening on a tenon or inside a recess.

    Said they added arrows to show direction but I always do that anyway. What looks like they are stretching for selling points is "Stand out NOVA RED backing plate adds an additional safety measure for use in operation." Hmmm, it's a stretch for me to imagine how something that hides on the back of the chuck would be a safety feature!

    If the price were lower, I'd probably get one to compare and test. Maybe price will come down.

    JKJ

  5. #20
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    you forgot about the red lettering on the shop towel, "FREE! NOVA microfiber workshop towel (11.5″ x 10.5″) to help keep your chuck and jaws well maintained." That's well worth the upcharge, and if i'm ever staring at the backside of my chuck while turning, the red will keep my temptations at bay to stick my fingers in there.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    The writeup claims "Intuitive clockwise scroll rotation for ease of use" making me wonder if they've switched the direction of rotation to the opposite of there existing line of chucks or if those are just words. (Some complain that Nova chucks are "backwards" compared to other models but if all my chucks are the same that doesn't matter). With any chuck one direction is always going to be backwards depending on whether you are tightening on a tenon or inside a recess.
    From what I've been reading, the answer is yes, they have switched to "righty tighty"...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timothy Thorpe Allen View Post
    From what I've been reading, the answer is yes, they have switched to "righty tighty"...
    That's just evil... erh, disloyal to existing customers. (It was turn right to tighten into a recess. I'd have argued that was backwards, but consistency is far more important than agreeing with my feelings!)

  8. #23
    I have two of the G3 chucks, one is insert, the other is direct thread. I also have a Laguna 12/16 lathe. The Direct thread G3 chuck I bought more recently as a kit with multiple jaws (it was actually about the same price for just the three sets of jaws as it was for the kit!). The supernova 2 is definitely a better chuck, but these two G3 chucks have worked great for me so far, and I'll probably just get more G3 chucks in the future (it is definitely annoying to change out jaws).

    when I bought the first G3 insert chuck, I also bought the small cole jaws. I would say these aren't that necessary, and I have only really needed them about twice in many years of turning. I typically default to a jam chuck style when I need to turn the foot of the bowl. I've only used the cole jaws when it wasn't possible or really inconvenient to use the jam chuck for the operation that I needed to do, but that rarely happens.

    I do like having the 4" jaws for when I am roughing out bigger bowl blanks, even in the 12" range.

    I believe nova has an insert that has dual internal threads, so that if you wanted to reverse the chuck, you just thread it on with the left hand threads. The insert chucks should all have the grub screw to hold on to the insert, and you can also use blue threadlocker on it to help keep it on. be very careful not to cross thread, as it is easier to do since they are dual threaded.

    For the 12/16, if you buy the 10" extension set, it comes with an outboard spindle adapter that has male dual threads as well, so you can turn outboard using your regular right hand threaded chuck with the lathe on in reverse and be safe. does that make sense? I turned a wooden hand wheel with left hand threads though to keep on that spindle adapter most of the time - I am not a fan of just the aluminum cylinder they have as the hand wheel.

    I'd also recommend getting the spindle chuck saver plastic washers, they make removing chucks so much easier. I forgot what they are actually called, but if you can't find them, let me know, and I'm sure I would be able to find them again.

    If you get more into bowls, you will also want to look into additional tool rests. For me, I added two, a J tool rest to get to the insides of bowls more easily, and a 12" to be able to reach further on the outside of the bowl blank, especially when I can't get the banjo underneath it (it is annoying to remove the chuck, move the banjo, then remount the chuck, etc.), both of the tool rests that I bought are made by robust, and I think they are great. I've been thinking of the d-way tool rest as well because it is offset, which would give me even greater reach, which would be nice sometimes.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melvin Feng View Post
    I have two of the G3 chucks, one is insert, the other is direct thread. I also have a Laguna 12/16 lathe. The Direct thread G3 chuck I bought more recently as a kit with multiple jaws (it was actually about the same price for just the three sets of jaws as it was for the kit!). The supernova 2 is definitely a better chuck, but these two G3 chucks have worked great for me so far, and I'll probably just get more G3 chucks in the future (it is definitely annoying to change out jaws).

    when I bought the first G3 insert chuck, I also bought the small cole jaws. I would say these aren't that necessary, and I have only really needed them about twice in many years of turning. I typically default to a jam chuck style when I need to turn the foot of the bowl. I've only used the cole jaws when it wasn't possible or really inconvenient to use the jam chuck for the operation that I needed to do, but that rarely happens.

    I do like having the 4" jaws for when I am roughing out bigger bowl blanks, even in the 12" range.

    I believe nova has an insert that has dual internal threads, so that if you wanted to reverse the chuck, you just thread it on with the left hand threads. The insert chucks should all have the grub screw to hold on to the insert, and you can also use blue threadlocker on it to help keep it on. be very careful not to cross thread, as it is easier to do since they are dual threaded.

    For the 12/16, if you buy the 10" extension set, it comes with an outboard spindle adapter that has male dual threads as well, so you can turn outboard using your regular right hand threaded chuck with the lathe on in reverse and be safe. does that make sense? I turned a wooden hand wheel with left hand threads though to keep on that spindle adapter most of the time - I am not a fan of just the aluminum cylinder they have as the hand wheel.

    I'd also recommend getting the spindle chuck saver plastic washers, they make removing chucks so much easier. I forgot what they are actually called, but if you can't find them, let me know, and I'm sure I would be able to find them again.

    If you get more into bowls, you will also want to look into additional tool rests. For me, I added two, a J tool rest to get to the insides of bowls more easily, and a 12" to be able to reach further on the outside of the bowl blank, especially when I can't get the banjo underneath it (it is annoying to remove the chuck, move the banjo, then remount the chuck, etc.), both of the tool rests that I bought are made by robust, and I think they are great. I've been thinking of the d-way tool rest as well because it is offset, which would give me even greater reach, which would be nice sometimes.
    I've decided to not get a cole chuck as i've never watched a youtube video of somebody using one to turn something impressive. Not saying it can't be done, but i'll save the $100 or so. I read up on Jam Chucks after your post, i've seen those used in various sizes for sure.
    I'll shoot you a PM about some more 1216 specific stuff.

    Are these the plastic spindle washers you were talkin about? https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...Spindle-Washer

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Steffen View Post
    I've decided to not get a cole chuck as i've never watched a youtube video of somebody using one to turn something impressive. Not saying it can't be done, but i'll save the $100 or so. I read up on Jam Chucks after your post, i've seen those used in various sizes for sure.
    I'll shoot you a PM about some more 1216 specific stuff.

    Are these the plastic spindle washers you were talkin about? https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...Spindle-Washer
    Yes! Those are just like the washers I have (mine are black), and I bought a couple extras as I am sure at some point one will drop and get caught up into the dust collector, or somehow lost!

    I think that is wise for the cole jaws. If you ever have a project that absolutely requires it, then just order them then, and wait for them to get to you (I assume this isn't your job, so even a week delay wouldn't cause you much trouble). The two annoying things for me when using the cole jaws was first just replacing the jaws on the chuck, and then repositioning each of the 8 rubber mounts. It works, but it is time consuming, and I've definitely had a catch that threw off the piece from the cole jaws.

    I'll respond to your PM in just a moment!

  11. #26
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    My Supernova 2 Pro-Tek arrived today. What should i use to remove the oil on all the jaws and chuck? IT STINKS!!!!!

    Washed my hands twice.......STINKS!!!

    Smells like a locamotive. Guessing they used this stuff on trains to resist rusting?

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Steffen View Post
    My Supernova 2 Pro-Tek arrived today. What should i use to remove the oil on all the jaws and chuck? IT STINKS!!!!!

    Washed my hands twice.......STINKS!!!

    Smells like a locamotive. Guessing they used this stuff on trains to resist rusting?
    Mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, any degreaser. I like brake parts cleaner to degrease parts, buy it by the case. But I wouldn't soak the inside of the chuck with degreaser unless it was properly relubricated. I like to use dry lube that won't pick up and hold fine sawdust.

    JKJ

  13. #28
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    for the jaws I can spray em down with brake parts cleaner. as for the chuck, should I spray it directly and just not soak it, or should i spray the rag then wipe it all down?

  14. #29
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    I use a rag. You shouldn't soak the chuck in a solvent unless you're planning on taking the back off and relubricating the internals.
    David Walser
    Mesa, Arizona

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Walser View Post
    I use a rag. You shouldn't soak the chuck in a solvent unless you're planning on taking the back off and relubricating the internals.
    What David W said.

    If there is still some remaining odor, you will probably get used to it quickly. Or burn some incense. I like to clean the jaws so they won't transfer oil to the wood and I don't like to hold an oily chuck and get the oil on my hands but I've never been bothered by the odor.

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