8’ straight edge

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks Andrew. I imagine it would cost a small fortune to have that edge re-ground if it needs it.
What’s the best way to check if the edge is true?

I don’t know if there’s a best way.
Im trying to remember a place in La that could definitely re grind it. Before I bought one from Suburban tools I had spoken to them about making one. And it was cheaper to buy one. But I didn’t have the steel there different levels of straightness when it comes to precision.
Good Luck

[Prashun Patel]

I’d get it if I could get a great deal on it.

However, I personally have never had a need for one. I have used my 5ft straight edge to test for flat over 9 ft table tops. For wood, I can usually get away with this.

Large machines may require more precision. Do you have any of those that need this?

[Dave Zellers]

I had no idea it would cost that much. $300 for a straight edge? For woodworking??? Must be nice.

Total waste of money. Stick with your 6' carpet edge. Assuming it's straight. I have an old 78" Craftsman level that I don't use as a level anymore, but it is still as straight as can be. If this were a machinist forum, I would say go for it, but there must be a special woodworking tool you've had your eye on- I'd spend my money on that. I don't care how perfectly you dial in your jointer. Wood moves.

[Mark Gibney]

Yes guys you might be right. I've lived this long without it, true, but the words 8' Starrett straight edge is like a siren song and I got this magnetic pull towards it.

Because of what Andrew said about the way straight edge must be stored and handled I went back to the ad and looked more closely at the photos. The piece shows a lot of wear marks from use, and I'm less enamored of getting it.
I'll sleep on it.

[Warren Lake]

years back working on a job had issues with a material I hadnt worked in before. It was not behaving. All hand picked material I could not afford to ruin any of it. I stopped and figured maybe the 50 year old jointer was finally wearing out.

I used the straightedge and checked it never having checked or set up a jointer that way before. It was out so I recorded it and started with shims. Maybe six to 8 tries and it was within in .0005. More accuracy than needed but not much time.

I started back into the material and it was still misbehaving just the same. The straightedge paid for itself right there as it ruled out the machine being the issue.

[Mel Fulks]

Such things are like Siren's songs... but my own suspicious mind would always wonder if the guy sold it because he once
dropped it ....and lost confidence in its mojo. I made an 8 foot straight edge about 30 years ago....because I wanted one.
It's had little use. Used it once to draw the lines for an accurate , in my latitude , sundial.

[Andrew Seemann]

I'm using an 8 foot long piece of 2" x 3" box aluminum as my long straight edge. It is more than accurate enough for my needs. Thing is when you get to 8 feet long and talk about measuring things to ten thousandths, it starts taking a lot of knowledge and skill. Things like uniform temperature start becoming important. At one shop I worked at, the foreman would freak out if the good 24" B&S machinist's square got left in the sun.

[Jim Matthews]

$300?

Izzit gold plated?

[Frederick Skelly]

Because of what Andrew said about the way straight edge must be stored and handled I went back to the ad and looked more closely at the photos. The piece shows a lot of wear marks from use, and I'm less enamored of getting it.
I'll sleep on it.

I think based on this I would pass. Seems like there's a reason he's selling it so cheaply, and you just found it - the tool hasn't been properly cared for and there's risk it is no longer accurate. Unless you can find a good way to check it.

Good luck Mark.

[Bobby Robbinett]

That is a steal of a deal. I would have bought it yesterday if I were you. New that thing was probably north of $2k. Maybe more. If you are concerned you could take it to a machinist and have him check it and regrind if necessary. Shouldn’t cost that much.

[Kevin Jenness]

Machine shops capable of truing up an 8' straightedge to precision specs are not on every corner. I had my 6 footer dialed in to less than .001" by a certified shop in the midwest which cost about $300 years ago. Large scale precision is not inexpensive. Depends how good you need it to be.

[Mark Gibney]

I slept on it and decided not to buy this straight edge. Thank you all for your opinions and rationales. If I felt I could really use it I would have accepted perhaps having to have it re-ground, but you're all correct in asking how much I'd actually use it. Best that it goes to a machine shop.
Cheers

[Patrick Kane]

8’ is probably overkill for 95% of the time. Extremely handy for setting up jointer beds, however. I have a 4’ starrett that I bought second hand from a machinist and I treat it like a China doll. Like you, I looked at a 72” starrett a year ago and was very tempted to buy it. But, I had just set up my latest jointer, and really didn’t feel like digging into the calibration again. I do wish there was a means of renting a straight edge for a day. I would have paid $100 to have an 8’ starrett for a day when I did my jointer beds.

To the guys that think $300 for a straight edge is a lot of money, you all need to get out more. Long and accurate straight edges are incredibly expensive. They are also worthwhile to own and valuable. Doesn’t make much sense to have a $5,000+ jointer surfacing $$$ of wood each year into non flat boards.

[Mark Hennebury]

Metal moves and so does granite; and for some reason the people that use them still care about precision and manage to achieve it.
Exactly how straight is " as straight as can be"
A straight edge is "a special woodworking tool"
"Total waste of money".... to you.

Reference tools are incredibly important part of setting up equipment and producing precision parts efficiently.

I had no idea it would cost that much. $300 for a straight edge? For woodworking??? Must be nice.

Total waste of money. Stick with your 6' carpet edge. Assuming it's straight. I have an old 78" Craftsman level that I don't use as a level anymore, but it is still as straight as can be. If this were a machinist forum, I would say go for it, but there must be a special woodworking tool you've had your eye on- I'd spend my money on that. I don't care how perfectly you dial in your jointer. Wood moves.

[Mel Fulks]

The steel straight edges are ok.....but the REAL craftsman will insist on platinum !! That's what the Bureau Of Standards
uses for their stuff...even the "yard sticks"! I'm thinking there might be a you tube guy who makes straight edges out of old Platinum Cards.