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Thread: 8’ straight edge

  1. #31
    I set up my 9' long 16" jointer with a 10' piece of steel drip edge. About $5 for a fresh one.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    I setup my jointer with a machinist level and a short straight edge. You all know by now my fetish for precision but in
    this case I have not found much need for very long straight edges. The ones that are manageable by hand are not very precision and the precise ones are quite heavy. If you can get a nice big one that is heavy as heck and precise, get it. If it’s a piece of 3/8” steel I’d pass.

    I bought one from Starrett, it arrived with a curve and would not stand up on its own, immediately realizing the limits of such a design I returned it and contracted a friend to scrap up a real straight edge made from a piece of cast iron tubing that is pretty heavy. The tube is 41” long, flat square and parallel to a couple ten-thousandths (.0001”). When I use it, which is rarely, I have no doubts.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #33
    I neglected to say how I made mine. Used a piece of 8' tempered Masonite. Glued white laminate on both sides with
    plastic resin glue. Let the glued up blank hang on the wall for a few weeks before moving on. Only one edge was filed
    straight and tapered thin. I can make a line and turn the piece around and it fits everywhere. Also made a 5 footer and a
    3 footer. They are occasionally used. I'm guessing all of them are about 4 and 1/2 inches wide.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New England
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    I neglected to say how I made mine. Used a piece of 8' tempered Masonite. Glued white laminate on both sides with
    plastic resin glue. Let the glued up blank hang on the wall for a few weeks before moving on. Only one edge was filed
    straight and tapered thin. I can make a line and turn the piece around and it fits everywhere. Also made a 5 footer and a
    3 footer. They are occasionally used. I'm guessing all of them are about 4 and 1/2 inches wide.
    I am actually very interested in this as I am right now doing a laminate counter and will end up with significant 8' laminate cutoffs. What thickness Masonite? 1/4"? Is the theory that laminate is super stable and will stabilize the Masonite? It makes sense that laminate would be very stable as it is mostly resin. Would 1/2" or 3/4" MDF be even better? I am liking the sound of this. I am going to have plenty of laminate and contact cement left over after this job. If I could knock off some 8 foot MDF (or HDF or the moisture resistant MDF) straight edges that were stable, that would be awesome. This totally seems doable.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    817
    I called the seller this morning to tell him I wouldn't be coming by, and we had a good chat.
    Turns out he also has a 12' Starrett. Incredible. He said he was thinking of cutting that in half to make two 6' straight edges, but hadn't decided yet one way or the other.
    He told me he got them both from Lockheed.
    So if anyone wants two super long straight edges from Santa, check out the Ventura County craigslist, and buy yourself some stretchy stockings.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
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    2,836
    12 ft Wow that’s cool Mark now we have Rocket science and woodworking together as one.
    I’m still trying to remember the outfit in La that I spoke too.
    Aj

  7. #37
    Dave, I consider your interest a fine compliment. I had no guidance,just thought it would work. There was plenty of
    old laminate and my employer allowed me to use it and the plastic resin glue. Masonite is available tempered and un tempered ,I would only use the tempered 1/4 inch. I think if I ever made another one ,I would use the same method.
    Mine can be sprung side ways, but it would it take some effort. Since Masonite is denser than mdf I think if I made another
    one I would use the Masonite again, not MDF. But using two layers of Masonite might work well. Mine can be sprung
    side ways, but it would take considerable force ,it definately won't move in use. I would not trust contact cement ,but
    yellow glue would probably work ok. I like the rigid quality of the plastic resin glue, I always let it sit 10 or 15 minutes
    after mixing. Feel free to PM me.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New England
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    Cool. Seems very straight forward. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    Dave, I consider your interest a fine compliment. I had no guidance,just thought it would work. There was plenty of
    old laminate and my employer allowed me to use it and the plastic resin glue. Masonite is available tempered and un tempered ,I would only use the tempered 1/4 inch. I think if I ever made another one ,I would use the same method.
    Mine can be sprung side ways, but it would it take some effort. Since Masonite is denser than mdf I think if I made another
    one I would use the Masonite again, not MDF. But using two layers of Masonite might work well. Mine can be sprung
    side ways, but it would take considerable force ,it definately won't move in use. I would not trust contact cement ,but
    yellow glue would probably work ok. I like the rigid quality of the plastic resin glue, I always let it sit 10 or 15 minutes
    after mixing. Feel free to PM me.

  9. #39
    Straight edge: make one piece of Masonite wider than the other layers. Then, after everything is glued you can use
    that edge against saw fence to get a neat edge rip ....then rip other side. You don't want to be running that stuff over a
    jointer !

  10. #40
    BTW, Woodcraft's Black Friday Deal lists Starett 48" aluminum i beam levels at 9.99 a piece.

    You could get 2 of them and tape them together. $20. Done.

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