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Thread: Suggested rip blade for thick wood

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Suggested rip blade for thick wood

    I'm having to rip some 3-1/2" hard maple on my Sawstop ICS. The saw can't cut that deep in one pass, but it stalled several times today cutting even 1/2 way. I was using my Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip Blade (it's the only rip blade I have). I would think that the Sawstop ICS should have plenty of power (5HP), but it still stalled.

    This wood is a beast to cut. My Kapex stalled and flipped its circuit breaker multiple times crosscutting it too.

    Any suggestions for a good quality rip blade? Is the thin kerf blade part of the issue with trying to rip wood that thick? It's 30 teeth, not 24 teeth like many other dedicated rip blades.
    - "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." - Albert Einstein
    - Without quitters, stampedes would never end
    - The difference between an amateur and professional is that the amateur practices until he gets it right. The professional practices until he can't get it wrong

  2. #2
    If you are useing 10" blades, I like 18 or 20 tooth. Prefer the 18.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
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    I've used this 20 tooth thin kerf blade with great success in ripping thick, hard wood, Don't know if it will work on a Sawstop.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    Lebanon, TN
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    I have the 20T, thin kerf Forrest Woodworker II rip blade.

    I use it on my 3HP SawStop. Love it.

    Edit: I also bought the SawStop thin kerf riving knife to use with it.
    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 11-23-2020 at 9:52 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Lancaster, Ohio
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    I use a Forrest WW 20 tooth rip blade on my SS 5hp ICS for all ripping,
    Rarely change the blade to anything else
    It cuts good at full depth in RS white oak resawing 6" wide 3/4" on edge
    I have stalled the saw once on a board when it bound up and wanted to kick back
    good luck
    Ron

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I have a 20T Woodworker II designed specifically for ripping thick material....it's a hold-over from the cabinet saw I owned before buying the slider -- that cabinet saw only took a 10" blade. I don't use it often, but it's what I pull out for thick and/or gnarly. (Fortunately, my slider has a 5/8" arbor so I can still use it)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    Same as the previous four posts.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    The theme here is that for ripping thick stock, you want a lot less teeth and a grind compatible withe the nature of ripping. Less teeth can carve with the grain more efficiently and also helps with evacuating the chips out of the kerf. There will also be less heat and consequently, lesser risk for burning.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    I know a lot of people like them but I have never owned a glue line rip blade. I believe any decent blade should rip a glue ready surface. So I can't compare to that blade. But I like Freud 24 tooth ripping blades. I had difficulty in a deep rip on my 1.75hp PCS and tried several blades in the same board. I had a new Infinity 24 tooth full kerf ripping blade and it was terrible. Motor kept going into the thermal overload trip. So I tried a not at all new but still in decent shape (and clean) Freud 24 tooth. BIG improvement. It would do the rips but I had to reduce the feed rate. Then I tried a thin kerf 24 tooth Freud and it had no difficulty. Normal feed rate was fine.

    I've never owned a Forrest blade and I doubt I will. Freuds have always worked and they're a lot cheaper.

    I have a Freud Fusion, thin kerf, on the PCS at the moment and I've cut about 3 inches deep with it but it was in softwood.

    The wood also makes a difference. The first overload situation I had with my PCS was in a 1 inch thick oak board. Something it rips easily. But the board was springing back after the riving knife and was pinching the blade despite the riving knife. I had on a full kerf blade and the SawStop riving knife is not very thick. I put a wedge in the kerf to keep it open and the board cut easily. I wonder if something like this is happening to you. 5hp should not struggle even with a 30 tooth blade if it is clean and sharp. But a board that warps might do what you describe.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
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    I have a Leitz 24T rip blade and it is great. I just ripped similar sized soft maple on my 3hp table saw and it didn't come close to slowing down. I've had great success with the blade.

    I'm also convinced I need two table saws, one dedicated to ripping and one to cross cuts. But I guess that is a separate thread 🤣

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Lancaster, Ohio
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    "I'm also convinced I need two table saws, one dedicated to ripping and one to cross cuts. But I guess that is a separate thread "

    Yup, why I have never had any blade other than a rip blade or the dado blade in a ripping direction on my table saw
    have radial arm saws for crosscutting, and panel saws for plywood

    Ron

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Tampa Bay, FL
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    Interesting that my Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip Blade (24 tooth) struggled with it. I wonder if it needs resharpening.

    I'll also have to find a lower tooth blade for my Kapex. The wood was definitely winning on that one for crosscutting.
    - "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." - Albert Einstein
    - Without quitters, stampedes would never end
    - The difference between an amateur and professional is that the amateur practices until he gets it right. The professional practices until he can't get it wrong

  13. #13
    [QUOTE=Alan Lightstone;3072668]Interesting that my Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip Blade (24 tooth) struggled with it. I wonder if it needs resharpening

    I think the "thin kerf" was the problem. When the wood closes a bit the saw plate width is too close to same width as
    the teeth.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sterling, Virginia
    Posts
    548
    We have a 12 tooth full kerf blade for thick stock. Yes it leaves a rough surface but has no problem going full depth.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    2,111
    When I had a really old Unisaw, a thin kerf rip blade was a necessity for 8/4 hard maple. To get a glue line, they have very little set on the teeth for better surface finish. You need few teeth and an aggressive set for relief on the saw plate for ripping thick stock.

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