Should I buy 6 inch Mark 1 jointer?

[Dave Sabo]

Think he’s talking about these :

https://dispozablade.com/

You need only set them up the first time. Shouldn’t have to adjust the head, but I’m not familiar with that model.

Read / watch videos on how to set up a jointer and align knives.


Never ceases to amaze me at some of the tool snobs round here that think one can’t get a decent / functioning tool from HF or Taiwan, China in general. Plenty of that stuff has been sold for decades and has served craftsmen well. To be sure there are some manuf. of real rubbish, but they are rare.

Like Jim said, a jointer is pretty simple. If the tables are reasonably flat and can be aligned, and the motor runs the rest is just effort. Certainly you’ll spend less time trying to dial in a new Powermatic , but it’ll cost you 10-20x as much.

Even then the Felder & SCMI guys will look down their nose at you. And the Northfield guys will do the same to that bunch.

[Mike Kees]

John ,the 6 jointer I used to own started its life with tables that dropped at the ends. I tried to adjust the gibs ( on my own with zero knowledge or experience) ,this did not help. Finally I took the tables right off my machine . I discovered that there was cosmoline in the dovetail ways, by that time 5-6 years of sawdust had turned it into a thick hardened paste. I scraped the gunk and cleaned throughly. When I put it all back together and snugged up the gibs properly then checked for flat it was bang on. I used this machine for about 10 more years and edge jointed stuff to 10' long. My jointer was a Delta ,made in Taiwan . I have six machines in my shop at the moment made in Taiwan ,all getting the job done and earning their keep. Hope you enjoy your jointer and if you need any help feel free to PM me.

[Charlie Jones]

Yes those are the ones. You just buy the kit the first time. It comes with three double sided blades and the blade holders. You just pull out the old blades and springs. Drop in the holder and blade and tighten the gib screws. They index off the outside edge of the blade slot. They is no adjustment needed. I used to spend an hour or more trying to get the old blades in adjustment. Replacement blades are cheaper since you won’t need the blade holder.

[Charlie Jones]

[attach=config]445416 [attach=config]445417

The picture isn’t great. The little nub you see on the blade holder is what indexes it.

[John Strong]

Hope you enjoy your jointer and if you need any help feel free to PM me.

Hey Mike, (and the rest)

After getting rid of all the rust, and lubricating all the moving parts, I've run into potentially my first question while dialing in the jointer. The blade guard seems to be slightly too high off the table. The 4/4 stock I was test jointing slides underneath the guard, instead of pushing it open. (See imgur, couldn't get the image to imbed)

I'm planning on modifying the guard to lower the front of it somehow. Has anyone else experience this with their guard?

https://imgur.com/a/tf9sgfd

Best,
John

[Mike Kees]

To me it looks as though the guard is not all the way down. Most jointer pork chop guards have a shaft with a slot in the end that engages a spring that can be twisted to increase or decrease the tension that the guard closes with. I would pull it out and clean it up with a wire wheel or brush and give it a shot of WD 40 and then see if it works different. I suspect it is just riding up higher because of rust or grit.

[Ron Selzer]

move the fence as far to the right/back as it will go, needs to be far enough that the pork chop can swing past it.
Look down in the hole for the spring that goes across the hole, look at the bottom of the pork chop post for the slot.
Line the two up and drop the pork chop in place completely down on the jointer bed.
Then turn it counterclockwise feeling the spring pressure build
Then slide the fence back in position.
good luck
ron

[Dave Sabo]

Fellas , I think y’all need to take a closer look at the pics. Don’t think the guard is going to lower any more than it is now.

Seems to me that the designer deliberately chose to have that space under the guard. A bit like a euro guard.

Look at the nubbin/shoulder highlighted in blue, and tell me where that’s going to recess into.

97AED66B-511E-4F5D-8DC3-7742936B52F0.jpeg

[John Strong]

Look at the nubbin/shoulder highlighted in blue, and tell me where that’s going to recess into.

97AED66B-511E-4F5D-8DC3-7742936B52F0.jpeg

Hi Dave, thanks for pointing that out on the original picture. It actually confirms both what Mike and Ron were saying inadvertently. When I took off the guard to de-rust the table top/ lubricate the moving components to get it to swing smoothly, I didn't get it back down properly. (Not even to the top of the nub.) But looking at the original photo, it is clear that before I removed all the components, it was possible to get the nub flush with the infeed table top, so the problem should be fixable without modification of any kind.

Best,
John

[Dave Sabo]

Now I’m totally flummoxed.

If the frost pic was before up you touched it , then it doesn’t seem possible to accomplish what they are saying.

But, the pic is fuzzy and I can’t see if there’s a recess in the bed to accommodate the guard’s shoulder. Look at Charlie’s woodtek guard. It has no shoulder and will sit almost flat on the bed. I don’t think yours will do that.

staying tuned though.

p.s. Looked at your other image - it ain’t happening.

the red lines indicate the “slack” the fellas were talking about. The green lines represent what I think you’ll never get rid of.

ECFCEA6C-2D0A-4AFE-BFC7-73C79857BC8F.jpg