Finishing Wenge

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have never used Wenge, but I intend to make some small boxes to hold toothpicks.

For some other wood, I am starting with BLO or Danish Oil, letting it dry then finishing it with amber shellac.

Does this sound reasonable for the Wenge as well?

[Jamie Buxton]

I use solvent varnish on wenge - usually wipe-on.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I use solvent varnish on wenge - usually wipe-on.

Will a solvent varnish hold an odor inside a closed box?

[Jamie Buxton]

Will a solvent varnish hold an odor inside a closed box?

The amount of varnish in a wiped-on coat is tiny, so I’d guess you can’t smell it. If you’re really paranoid, you could put finish only on the outside of the box.

[Wade Lippman]

For what its worth, I made one project out of wenge 20 years ago. I put wipe on varnish on it and it still looks good. It got almost black, if that is what you are looking for.

I don't claim to be an expert, but I have always heard that putting a soft film like danish oil under another harder finish is a mistake.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I don't claim to be an expert, but I have always heard that putting a soft film like danish oil under another harder finish is a mistake.

I am only adding the oil because it really improves the look of some wood; for example, walnut. Does danish oil leave any film? How about BLO?

I will have to take a look at a wipe on varnish, I have never used one.

[Jim Becker]

Andrew...wenge will take a finish so take the scrap, sand it and try out various things to see what you like the best. Any kind of oil/oil-based product is going to "warm up" the look. Don't experiment on your actual project....

BTW, be very careful with splinters...they can be nasty.

[Jim Tobias]

I've used Danish Oil, Tried and True Original Finish(Polymerized Linseed Oil and Beeswax) and General Finishes Bowl Finish on Wenge. The first two will darken the Wenge somewhat but leaves a nice finish to the touch. The General Finishes Bowl Finish leaves a slightly higher sheen and also seems to be a harder finish. My understanding is that all are food safe after curing.
If using the Tried and True, try sanding to a very high grit(1000 or more) and you will find it absorbs a little less and therefore doesn't bleed back from the pores as much. Also leaves a very smooth feel to the finish.

Jim

[Wade Lippman]

I am only adding the oil because it really improves the look of some wood; for example, walnut. Does danish oil leave any film? How about BLO?

I will have to take a look at a wipe on varnish, I have never used one.

Danish oil doesn't have an actual meaning, but it is usually a mix of oil and varnish that leaves a soft film. Blo leaves less of a film if used lightly, so it would be better. Solvent based varnish should have the same effect as either of them, but leaves a hard film. You can then put shellac over that if you want, though it seems unnecessary.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Danish oil doesn't have an actual meaning, but it is usually a mix of oil and varnish that leaves a soft film. Blo leaves less of a film if used lightly, so it would be better. Solvent based varnish should have the same effect as either of them, but leaves a hard film. You can then put shellac over that if you want, though it seems unnecessary.

The David oil I have is Watco. I would need to check the can to see what it's says, can't do that first a week.

[Scott Holmes]

I would use De-waxed Garnet shellac. fast dry, easily repaired, food-safe, hard finish, colorfast (never yellows) pops the grain and enhances the color.