Wiring light fixtures that rotate

[Stephen Tashiro]

Is there a special way to wire lights that can be rotated and rely on the flexing of wires for this to happen?

Some lights fixtures can rotate (as well as tilting up and down) , such as https://www.amazon.com/Nuvo-Lighting...A01RN021D&th=1

That particular light doesn't have a fancy electrical connection that allows the rotation. I relies on the flexibility of the wires. It has a stop that prevents the light from being rotated more than one turn.

[Paul F Franklin]

I don't think any special care is needed with your wiring...the manufacturer will have (should have?) used stranded wire that can easily tolerate the occasional rotation of that type of fixture. When I worked in industrial automation we often had large bundles of wire that were flexed and twisted hundreds of times a day, if not more. We used high strand count wire and the insulation was chosen to withstand the flexing, but nothing really special. If the cables had to flex over a long distance (think a moving CNC gantry, for example, mechanical support such as a flexible cable tray was provided, but that was mostly to prevent the cables from getting tangled in anything. If continuous rotation (no stops) is needed, then slip rings must be used, but that's not the case in a fixture like that.

[Thomas McCurnin]

It will certainly have #14 or #16 stranded wires coming out of the fixture to your box.

Your box will have #14 or probably #12 solid wires going into the box.

I'd wire in the customary manner, with a good hooded wire nut, tightly turned, which will self twist the wires. I was taught to tape the wire nuts on, but this method has apparently lost favor in the last 10 years, as the tape becomes messy and sticky and makes it a PITA to switch out fixtures downstream.

[Jim Matthews]

The stops should be sufficient if you leave enough slack. If there's a little "extra" to stuff in the can, it's probably enough.

The box *should* contain instructions with a guideline on how long to leave the pigtail.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I was taught between 6-8 inches, and rather than measure, it was the span of your hand from your pinky at the edge of the box to the end of cut wire. That usually a good working length. Any more, and the wires get in the way, any less and it becomes fussy.