Finish for max chatoyance

[Brian Tymchak]

Hi all,

I'm working on my first art piece that will incorporate inlays of crotch birch (sample below). The picture might not show it very well but the inlays exhibit great chatoyance and, if finished properly, I hope the inlays to really be an eye catcher for the viewer. This is all new territory for me on this type of finish so I want to figure out the best process to max the chatoyance on these inlays. I would greatly appreciate any input you might have on this process.

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The inlays are cut at 1/8" veneers. I would do several experiments but I only have 1 spare piece of crotch veneer to test with. So I'm wanting to eliminate as many variables as I can prior to an actual test. I can cut that piece into 2 to try an alternative. I will practice the finish schedule on other scrap, to gain experience with the execution.

In general, I'm thinking that the inlays will be finished separately to high gloss and then installed because the whole piece might not be finished to high gloss, to further emphasize the crotch inlay. Haven't made final decision on that yet. Anyone think it will look odd to have a mix of high gloss and a little lower gloss finish in the same piece?

I've found a few sources that were helpful:

• Dave Marks blog post. He uses Seal-a-cell and Arm-R-Seal as his oil finish, under lacquer.
• 2012 SMC thread - tung oil/lacquer has clearest refractive index
• Article on rubbing out finish.

Given what I've read, I'm thinking of using clear lacquer over oil. Here's my current thoughts of my finish process and some questions.

1. Sand inlay to 320 (ROS with abranet). Sample in picture is sanded to 320. Would finer grit be beneficial?
2. Vacuum, clean with DNA, naptha, etc, to pull dust out of grain.
3. Rub Tung oil into wood until dry as possible per Marks article. Let dry and buff hard with 0000 steel wool. If I keep the amount of oil used to a minimum, is there any chance oil will seep thru the veneer to the opposing side, and interfere with gluing inlay into place?
4. Apply 1 coat dewaxed shellac. ( #1 cut?) Would a second coat be of any benefit? Should this coat be sanded? Assuming color should be light as possible. Thinking about using this shellac . Would a slightly darker shellac pop the chatoyance better? I've read that some color pops birdseye better.
5. Apply 2 coats vinyl sanding sealer. Sand with 320.
6. Apply clear gloss lacquer, several coats, lightly sanding between coats.
7. Cure for 2-3 weeks.
8. Rub out finish per article.

Thanks for your help on this.

[Jim Becker]

The one thing I'm not comfortable with is the idea of putting lacquer (presumably solvent based lacquer and including the vinyl sealer) over a non-lacquer finish. Bad things can happen because of the solvents use with the lacquer.

But in general, when I want the "pop" oil is my go to, but I might do multiple applications of dye that are sanded back first to accentuate the features in the wood first.

[Brian Tymchak]

Thanks Jim. Yes, I was thinking of using solvent based laquer. Maybe I need to redo my research as I thought the coat of shellac would serve as a barrier between the oil and vinyl sealer/lacquer. Well, this is why I posted. Appreciate your input.

[Lee Schierer]

I just used solvent based lacquer on these three projects.lsusan2.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim. Yes, I was thinking of using solvent based laquer. Maybe I need to redo my research as I thought the coat of shellac would serve as a barrier between the oil and vinyl sealer/lacquer. Well, this is why I posted. Appreciate your input.

The shellac will serve as a barrier coat, but mist on the first few coats of the lacquer. I missed that you had that step in there. Not sure you even need the vinyl sealer here with the other stuff already on the finish.

Do keep in mind personal safety if you are going to use the solvent based lacquer product. It's dangerous to humans and also quite explosive....not something to spray in your house.

[Brian Tymchak]

The shellac will serve as a barrier coat, but mist on the first few coats of the lacquer. I missed that you had that step in there. Not sure you even need the vinyl sealer here with the other stuff already on the finish.

That's good to hear and appreciate the tip. The vinyl sealer is a step from the Dave Marks blog. With limited knowledge, I just opted to follow his process.

Do keep in mind personal safety if you are going to use the solvent based lacquer product. It's dangerous to humans and also quite explosive....not something to spray in your house.

Yep, I'm going spray in the garage in a plastic tent, doors open. And this is a very small project, so minimal material sprayed.

Was thinking an air brush might be what I use since it is such a small project and also to keep the out-of-pocket lower.

[Brian Tymchak]

Thanks for the inspiration Lee. Spectacular figure in that curly maple.

[Phil Mueller]

I think shellac and oil based finishes provide a fairly similar grain pop. Keep in mind, it’s only going to be as good as the wood wants to be. I’ve finished different boards of curly maple and different pieces of quilted maple veneer, and some are spectacular and some are pretty good.

For comparison, the inside of the lid and the tray was traditional french polish.

2DAB4324-1D8E-4480-B5B0-7A17F22616CA.jpg

The outside was nothing more than ArmRSeal.

6DB7B8A7-DEB8-4BF0-95E8-A359ED9BDDDE.jpg

Very similar look.

And in person, a fairly spectacular outcome. Not always the case with some boards or veneers.

[Stan Calow]

Do folks find that it helps chatoyance to sand to a very grit (>800, for example)?

[Lee Schierer]

Do folks find that it helps chatoyance to sand to a very grit (>800, for example)?

All of mine were sanded to 220.