I own and use my Veritas shoulder planes, even the little miniature one has been useful. Does a Rabbet plane do everything a shoulder plane does or does it have some other important advantage/use?
I own and use my Veritas shoulder planes, even the little miniature one has been useful. Does a Rabbet plane do everything a shoulder plane does or does it have some other important advantage/use?
I saw this discussed on the Renaissance Woodworker. He claims the main difference is the rabbets ability to hog of wood faster.
Rabbet plane describes a whole family of planes, including shoulder planes, with the distinction of cutting to the edge of the plane body.Does a Rabbet plane do everything a shoulder plane does or does it have some other important advantage/use?
Here is an image with most of my metallic rabbet (rebate) planes:
Rascally Rabbets.jpg
There doesn't seem to be a 'family portrait' of my wooden bodied rabbet (rebate) planes.
If one often is in need of cutting a controlled rabbet, a plane with a fence and depth stop can be much easier for getting the job done.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Will a rabbit plane do everything a block plane would do but with the ability to work to the edge? My question pertains to a metal body plane not wooden
A block plane is in a different category. Rabbet planes have irons that extend to the cheeks. They are made to make 90 degree cuts.
A normal block plane will not have the iron extended to the cheeks.
As far as block plane vs rabbet, it depends on what you are trying to do. If you are trying to make a small chamfer, you could use a block plane and you could probably get a rabbet plane to work. If you are trying to cut or clean up a rabbet, a block plane will not work. If you are trying to clean up end grain or shave down a small piece, a block plane is the better choice.
The rabbet plane is more likely to leave tracks on the work.
Using a rabbet plane as a block plane is more likely to get blood on your work. DAMHINK!
The #140 is a one sided rabbet plane with an attachable/detachable side so it will work like a block plane or a rabbet plane.
A better answer might be determined by knowing what it is you are trying to accomplish. The choice of which plane will work better for a job is different for tuning a tenon or installing a back to a cabinet.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Bernie, not sure which specific planes you're considering. But let me share a story about L-N's Rabbet Block Plane. I was looking at one at one of their Tool Events because their advertising makes it sound so capable and useful. Their demonstrator told me he hates it. You can't wrap your fingers around the edges and use it like a block plane without cutting yourself. His position is there is always a better plane for whatever job is at hand. I mentioned the potential versatility, he thought, and admitted if he was to be stranded somewhere with a single plane he would consider it. He made it clear he wasn't committing to it, just that he'd think about it. (After the warnings, I picked it up to try. And nicked a finger. Dummy! It was all kinds of wrong in my hand.)
I don't think I've ever used a Rabbet plane for anything but rabbets. My shoulder planes get used for all sorts of things, but I don't ever remember using one on a shoulder.
My LN rabbet block plane comes out when I need to level and true up the insides of drawer cases. A wide shoulder plane might not have enough clearance, that is, is too high.
This plane is too wide and too low to form rebates. It also lacks a depth stop.
Edit to add:
I occasionally use a shoulder plane to tune tenon shoulders, but mainly use a chisel here. I find shoulder planes more useful for fine tuning - sometimes making - rebates, especially small rebates (such as with slipped drawer bottoms).
To create an accurate tenon shoulder, I saw a smidgeon off the scribed line, and then use a chisel in the line. A shoulder plane is used when there is too little to use a chisel (where there is too little reference area).
Cheeks rely on being square and parallel. A plane (of any type, including a rabbet block plane, and especially a shoulder plane) is vulnerable to planing away square. If you need to ensure square, use a large router plane. I do so, and have never needed an outrigger to maintain flat.
Mostly I fine tune cheeks with either a wide chisel or a rasp. I would consider these for more confident workers, and you need an eye to keep all surfaces parallel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-02-2020 at 9:02 PM.
Bernie, thanks for really interesting question. Lots of really good information above in responses regarding the differences between various types of rabbit and/or shoulder planes – this genre with blade extending fully to the edges of the plane body.
JK's suggestion about considering the tool based on the specific task you are trying to accomplish I think is super helpful. From that perspective, a fenced rabbit plane is one of the most used joinery planes in my kit for all sorts of tasks: establishing the shoulder of fielded panels, carcasses backs/frame and panel construction/drawer/drawers etc. to accept panels. Also essential for making moldings with hollow and round planes. For many of these jobs, a fast, reasonably accurate work with big shavings is what you're looking for. For me, I often rough out these tasks with a rabbit plane and then switch to a more delicate shoulder plane to smooth/trim to final layout lines.
As the name obviously implies, shoulder planes are also awesome, in my mind essential, for trimming the shoulders of tennon's to get that nice "handmade" flush fit.
Sorry for the long rambly comment – bottom line: I like both rabbit and shoulder planes for different tasks. Isn't that always the answer – always a way to justify an additional tool.
Cheers, Mike