Another minimax sc4e question

[Joe Hendershott]

It has been a while since I have used a slider, and then it was all sheet material. I have the room now for the 8.5' wagon but do have a question about ripping long stock parallel. I am ready to purchase the 4e with the longer wagon but would consider the shorter one if I cannot keep long rails parallel.

Right now I veneer up long narrow stock, like a rail for instance, in a vacuum bag. I then trim off the overhanging veneer, which is generally 3/32 or 1/8 thick with a trim router so one edge is flush and then do a SLR on the other edge. This works okay but I use epoxy for adhesive and the edge after trimming is still far from perfect. I hate to use the jointer for this because the epoxy is quite hard on the knives.

What I would like to do is clamp the long stock, say 7' for example, on the wagon and rip it straight on one edge. Only question is: How to keep that long piece parallel to the blade? If it is fairly quick and simple it would save a lot of time trimming and sanding to get one edge straight enough to rip it with the fence, only having to go back again after I do the opposite edge.

[Jim Becker]

There are multiple ways to make the board parallel to the blade while clamped to the wagon. Notice that word "clamped"...which is a good idea with long stock that you want to do a fine, finished edge on. I just use my Fritz and Franz jig as my parallel guides for longer rips and since I rarely ever cut material longer than can fit on my 8'6" wagon on the S315WS (similar in size to the saw you're considering) that works just fine for me. I rarely edge joint boards...the edges are done right on the slider wagon.

BTW, I don't cut a lot of sheet goods on my slider (at least full sheets) and most cutting is on solid stock.

[Joe Hendershott]

There are multiple ways to make the board parallel to the blade while clamped to the wagon. Notice that word "clamped"...which is a good idea with long stock that you want to do a fine, finished edge on. I just use my Fritz and Franz jig as my parallel guides for longer rips and since I rarely ever cut material longer than can fit on my 8'6" wagon on the S315WS (similar in size to the saw you're considering) that works just fine for me. I rarely edge joint boards...the edges are done right on the slider wagon.

BTW, I don't cut a lot of sheet goods on my slider (at least full sheets) and most cutting is on solid stock.

Thanks Jim. I have read some info on the jig and see that is the way to go. Most all of my stuff will be less than 8 feet.

On a side note: I have been able to find out what size circuit needed with the 4e or 30c. Does anyone have some info on that? Have an electrician doing some other work and would like to get it done before I take delivery.

[Erik Loza]

On a side note: I have been able to find out what size circuit needed with the 4e or 30c. Does anyone have some info on that?

Joe, if it's a single-phase machine, 30A. If three-phase, 20A. Hope this helps (I have sold many SC4's).

Erik

[Joe Hendershott]

Joe, if it's a single-phase machine, 30A. If three-phase, 20A. Hope this helps (I have sold many SC4's).

Erik

Thank you Erik.