Glue Line Rip Blades

[Rod Sheridan]

OK! I'll go check the alignment right now!

how much toe out do you like to have on the fence?

I have about 0.003” toe out on the fence.

I get glue ready rips, I use a short fence that ends just beyond the start of the blade....Regards, Rod.

[Derek Cohen]

Jeff, it is straightforward. The JessEm guides are on a track, which enables them to be adjusted for spacing/position. Just position them outside the dust guard, as I do.

With the down hose removed ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Ranck]

as always my friend, thank you so much!

[kent wardecke]

Agree....and throw in the other glues. Some ADHESIVES might benefit from rough surface.

Thanks, I was wondering about that

[Erik Loza]

Derek, I really like your router lift setup.

Erik

[Joe Wood]

OK folks, I'd like another 12" rip blade that leaves a smooth cut without the cross hatching. I mostly rip softwoods, 2x and 4x, hardly ever hardwoods or sheet goods, so no combo blades or thin kerf please,

so what would you recommend for me?

[Erik Loza]

Joe, I think any of the good brands (Forrest, Tenryu, etc.) could give you a decent cut but it's a rip blade, so not sure you will get "finish-quality" results like a glue-line blade. Are you just not wanting to sand, or?

Erik

[Bruce King]

If you don’t have a jointer just run the board through the TS a 2nd time to take off just .100 or less to clean up the edge. Don’t stop or slow down. Most any decent blade will be fine using this method. Are you sure the board is flat on the saw and fence with zero wobble?

[Joe Wood]

Yeah just to cut down on the hand sanding because I don't have a jointer.