Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 36

Thread: The right power cord for Hammer A3-31. Jointer/planer

  1. #1

    The right power cord for Hammer A3-31. Jointer/planer

    Some of you may know that this very expensive power tool comes with an 18 inch power cord and It makes no sense for those who have no ability to place the machine right on top of an outlet. I did some research thinking I needed a 12/3 SOOW cord that can be insulated for 600V applications. I ordered my black cord through the Internet having no idea it was going to be so much thicker than the cord I’m trying to replace and the cord I am replacing already has the conduit nuts that attach to the machine so I just want to buy a cord with the same thickness. Does anybody know if this cord has a certain name to identify it so I can order this cord in the correct thickness? Thank you.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Central MA
    Posts
    1,588
    Most likely 14-3 SJT.

  3. #3
    I took a picture of the cable and it mentions 12 gauge/3 and elsewhere it mentions 600V but not sure if these other numbers help identify it. BAB88C1B-988A-41A9-B79F-2722DB03C851.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    Why don't you just make up an extension cord and use the short cord as is ?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Mt Pleasant SC
    Posts
    721
    You can buy a short 12ga ext cord. Just make sure the connection is above the floor and not touching anything.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,720

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    On Canada
    Posts
    136
    I'm using the same one as Chris. It is a good extension cord

  8. #8
    Cut the existing cord a foot-or-so above ground and install a twist-lock plug. Then you don't have the hassle of a plug and socket dragging on the ground, but still have the ability to disconnect the extension cord for service of the machine, etc.

    If you really want to replace the existing cord, just use what you bought and buy a new strain relief that fits it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,969
    I will buy used extension cords at a yard sale if the cable is good. Cut th bad ends off and use it for machine wiring inside the cabinet or make up a power cord. It can be cheaper to buy a extension cord then to buy a equal length of the same cable with no ends.
    Bil lD.

    How many amps is your machine? Measure the outer diameter of you existing cable.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    I will buy used extension cords at a yard sale if the cable is good. Cut th bad ends off and use it for machine wiring inside the cabinet or make up a power cord. It can be cheaper to buy a extension cord then to buy a equal length of the same cable with no ends.
    Bil lD.

    How many amps is your machine? Measure the outer diameter of you existing cable.
    I will have to check the specs but I think it has to handle 600 watts. I have 14-50 Nema plugs and I bought an extension cord and put a plug on the end of the 18 inch cord but the extension cord was really made for RV’s and is really heavy - I wanted something as slim as the one coming from the machine. I think using an extension cord may be a solution - I will check the specs again.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hassad View Post
    Some of you may know that this very expensive power tool comes with an 18 inch power cord and It makes no sense for those who have no ability to place the machine right on top of an outlet. I did some research thinking I needed a 12/3 SOOW cord that can be insulated for 600V applications. I ordered my black cord through the Internet having no idea it was going to be so much thicker than the cord I’m trying to replace and the cord I am replacing already has the conduit nuts that attach to the machine so I just want to buy a cord with the same thickness. Does anybody know if this cord has a certain name to identify it so I can order this cord in the correct thickness? Thank you.
    I have an A3-41, I use an extension cord with it. I purchased this on Amazon:

    Parkworld NEMA 6-20 Extension Cord 6-20P to 6-20R (T Blade Female Also for 6-15R Adapter) 250V, 20A, 5000W
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2QHXT9

    Comes in different lengths, and works fine.

    BTW, I was told by Felder that opening up the electrical box voided the warranty. Suggest you check with them.

    Bob

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,272
    You need a 300V piece of flexible cord.

    My A3-31 is rated at 16 amperes so I use 14/3 SJT flexible cord which is rated at 18 amperes.

    I use a 6-20P cord cap on the end.............Rod.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,827
    I put similar pigtails on my tools specifically rather than long cords...so I'd be right at home with the way your Hammer is configured. I'm actually surprised if has any power cord on it from the factory as that's not always the case for this kind of gear. None of my SCM/Minimax tools came with "cords". I use twist locks and rubber coated "cord" material at the lengths I prefer and the reason I use a pigtail is so I have a physical disconnect right at the machine since outlets are not necessarily easily accessible.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I put similar pigtails on my tools specifically rather than long cords...so I'd be right at home with the way your Hammer is configured. I'm actually surprised if has any power cord on it from the factory as that's not always the case for this kind of gear. None of my SCM/Minimax tools came with "cords". I use twist locks and rubber coated "cord" material at the lengths I prefer and the reason I use a pigtail is so I have a physical disconnect right at the machine since outlets are not necessarily easily accessible.
    I used SJOOW type cord, which is rated for 300V instead of 600V, so the insulation is thinner, making the bundle and jacket smaller in diameter. Ordered it by-the-foot from Home Depot. They no longer cut cable to length in most stores.

    Ditto on the twist lock plug and receptacle near the power tool, but I used a straight-bladed plug to match my 240VAC wall outlet. My Unisaw also has a short cord with twist-lock plug, and plugs into the same SJOOW power cord (one at a time).

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,969
    Those twist locks at the machine do not have to match up to anything else at all. I find matched twist lock male/female pairs at Habiatat and yard sales and then use them as needed. I like to put a stub cord on a machines motor with a twist lock from the switch gear. Makes installing or servicing the motor much easier.
    Bill D

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •