I adopted the same 96mm on center that Festool uses for the MFT for any surface that I've done the dog hole dance. The Parf system may actually already be setup for that spacing.
I adopted the same 96mm on center that Festool uses for the MFT for any surface that I've done the dog hole dance. The Parf system may actually already be setup for that spacing.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
What is the range of the vice that you will be using to clamp against these dogs? You want the dog spacing to be spaced less than the maximum travel of the vice lead screw, or to speed up things when it's in use on smaller projects, increments of about half of the maximum travel of the vice.
Charley
I plan on using that Parf system spacing (I think you're right, Jim, that it's 96mm.) I'm really thinking seriously about leaving about half of the top without holes, or with very few, and the rest with the 96mm spacing. But I keep running into projects that require dog holes farther away from the edge or vice than my Sjobergs workbench has.
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Play with it on paper a bit, Alan. You can easily do a grid of 96mm spacing in part of your work surface and use a wider spacing that's still aligned with the 96mm "virtual" grid to keep things consistent. I took this one step further with my primary and guitar benches in that I have the 96mm grid of 20mm holes as the general field, but also have some .75" dog holes in thicker support areas to allow me to use my "coveted" Gramercy holdfasts. Some folks incorporate some slots within the grid to permit use of their F-clamps, etc. Figure out what would enhance how you work and "do that". You could even take the time and make a prototype top or two to experiment...MDF isn't all that expensive in the general scope of things.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...