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Thread: Band Saw Circle Jig?

  1. #1
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    Band Saw Circle Jig?

    I have a 14" Rikon 10-326 and need to make a circle cutting jig for an 18" table top. I've seen a few on YouTube but am interested in what my fellow SMC members have come up with. Let's see the direction you went.
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  2. #2
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    I made a version of the one on Winky's woodworking tips on YouTube. The change I made was a piece of T-track instead of channel for shelving.

    I use a 10-24 shoulder bolt with the head cut off for the pin. If I want a circle without a hole I use a backer piece with a hole and double stick tape to hold the work piece to the backer.

    Could post a picture if you'd like.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  3. #3
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    Years ago, I purchased a kit from Kreg that came with instructions for making a circle cutting jig. The jig works really well once you get your miter slot aligned with the blade by adjusting the table.
    Lee Schierer
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  4. #4
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    Track here as well. I used some stuff like this. The part that rides in the track (a cut-off about 1-1/2" long) I tapped for a grub screw to lock the position and threaded holes for a sharpened machine screw cut-offs for the pivot point. Two pivot points; a large one for large piece of material from a 1/4 x 20 bolt and a small one from a 10x32 machine screw. Obviously used one at a time.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    I made a version of the one on Winky's woodworking tips on YouTube. The change I made was a piece of T-track instead of channel for shelving.

    I use a 10-24 shoulder bolt with the head cut off for the pin. If I want a circle without a hole I use a backer piece with a hole and double stick tape to hold the work piece to the backer.

    Could post a picture if you'd like.
    Yes please.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  6. #6
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    May 2008
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    Peshtigo,WI
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    100_0033.jpg100_0030.jpg100_0035.jpg100_0039.jpg100_0032.jpg

    First picture shows jig hanging on wall, bottom view.

    Second picture is jig on my saw in position to be used.

    Third picture is from the side.

    Fourth picture shows the t-track and shoulder bolt used for the pin. You can also see the line I have scribed in the MDF that's centered on the t-track groove and used to line up the center of the t-track to the blade.

    Fifth picture is a blurry close up of the track, pin and the line for aligning the jig to different width blades.

    I used a couple t-track bolts for tightening the track once it's set to the diameter you want.

    The jig was easy to make and didn't require any special tools or methods to assemble.

    Hope this helps.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  7. #7
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    Oct 2015
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    I also have a 10-326 and I followed this video and it works perfectly ...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9tkvQ8wX3U

  8. #8
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    Thanks for that link Johnny. I hacked together a prototype this morning that worked pretty well. I need to cut some plywood and make a final version. The proto worked well enough to cut out the top of the Taboret with a surprising degree of precision. A little work with a spokeshave and sanding block and I'm good to go.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    20201101_075201.jpg20201101_075220.jpg

    Rob, these pics are of the top and bottom of my jig. The writing on the top reminds me of how to set the sliding track to get an exact radius. The stop block is so that the jig slides to the same spot each time. I also found the kerf line has to extend slightly more than half way into the channel the track slides to get that perfect circle particularly at the end of the cut.
    Last edited by Johnny Barr; 10-31-2020 at 6:16 PM.

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