[OP]
Member
Folks,
I am building a round cedar hot tub and want to put some kind of liner inside that will be attractive, allow insulation between it and the cedar, and be waterproof. It will greatly simplify the joinery and time if I can find something that will work. Does anyone have any idea for a liner and maybe a cover?
thanks,
Stevo
Member
I would buy a round spa then build the exterior.
You need thick foam insulation and water properly isolated from the electrics.
Contributor
Must be someone making the right sized polymer water tank. Then you could cut off one end.
Contributor
Buy a rubbermaid stock trough.
Bill D
Contributor
There are hot tub manufacturers that sell vinyl liners for their tubs, maybe you can buy the liner from them if you match the dimensions. https://snorkel.com/hot-tub-products...ccessories.php
Member
Simply building a cedar box and dropping a liner in won’t get you a functional hot tub. You need some ridged to hold the liner once filled up with water and something that will support humans while they sit inside of it
Member
Google water tank liners. There are several companies that produce them. You can ask them about the heat, but I doubt whether that would be any problem at all. Prices vary. -Howard
[OP]
Member
Thanks for the suggestions so far.
The dimensions I am considering are 5 or 6 feet in diameter and 4 feet high. I havent had any luck finding a stock tank or plastic bottle that large yet. I will talk to the snorkle people and another idea was to just use cedar, seal up the edges as the boatbuilders do, and then coat the inside with an epoxy.
Any more future suggestions are welcome.
thanks,
Last edited by stevo wis; 10-30-2020 at 11:01 AM.
Contributor
Traditional cedar hot tubs don't use epoxy or even boat building sealants. They relied on the wood swelling when wet just like a wine barrel or a wooden bucket. Talk to a tub manufacturer before you decide. I had a traditional cedar hot tub back in the 80's. I bought it used and added a vinyl liner with a stainless steel ring around the outside to hold the liner in place. The tub also had galvanized rings to hold it together, if I recall the SS band replaced the top ring. We had a pair of benches inside to sit on. Can't recall if they were free standing or if I screwed them thru the liner to seal them. I suspect they were screwed with stainless screws and some silicone sealant, that's likely what I would do today but I'd ask a tub manufacturer for advice when I bought the liner if I were you.
Member
Another option would be to line the tub with fiberglass. I built a Japanese bath which is an area about 10 by 9 feet, that has an integral tub, with raised seats at one end. I built the form, insulated of course, and then covered it with the fiberglass. The fiberglass is continuous from the tub, across the floor and up the walls a couple feet. Floors were sloped with cement then covered with plaster to keep down resin absorption by the cement.
The reason for this is that with a Japanese bath, you wash on the outside (floor drain there) and soak in the hot water afterwards. This is different than a hot tub, but water is water and a tub is a tub.
One problem with molding fiberglass in place is the surface does not cure completely, as it needs no exposure to air to cure completely, so it will watermark. It will also not be perfectly smooth. I believe watermarking can be dealt with by coating with a good epoxy paint. Might even be possible to coat with wax after initial hardening. Do not know. But the end result would still be less than perfectly smooth.
I got my fiberglass matt and resin from a small place that did fiberglass work. That place was referred to me by a resin supplier that was not interested in supplying small amounts of resin. Probably 20 gallons of resin. Worked for me.
Just suggesting this as a possible option. Might work for you, but it is not for everyone.
Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!
Member
I'm with Bruce on this, why re-invent the wheel ?
Just build a cedar surround for something that already has the engineering and production solved.
Last edited by Dave Sabo; 10-31-2020 at 1:51 PM.
Contributor
Cast concrete. make you own.
Bill D
Member
Originally Posted by Bill Dufour
That is going to be very difficult , basically impossible given the size and shape.
Contributor
No size and shape was given. I assume it sits flat on the ground not on a raised deck.
Bil lD.
https://www.jensenprecast.com/Agricultural/Water-Trough-p15460/
https://www.ntotank.com/1000gallon-d...SABEgL_ofD_BwE
https://www.tankandbarrel.com/open-t...SABEgLCdfD_BwE
https://theconstructor.org/structural-engg/rcc-water-tank-design-requirements/6717/
https://wieserconcrete.com/product/s...holding-tanks/
this one has free delivery if the op is in Australia.
https://dallcon.com.au/product/round...-water-trough/
Last edited by Bill Dufour; 10-31-2020 at 2:03 PM.
Contributor
Four feet tall is very tall for what can be bought. Buy a piece of 6' pipe and make a bottom. Or buy two of the poly tanks and cut out the bottom of one and glue it onto the other. Easier in poly then in concrete. What is your location so we can give more local suggestions. Are you in Australia?
Bil lD
Reply With Quote
