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I use a chop saw for both ferrous and non-ferrous alloys. With non-ferrous, as mentioned earlier, you can use a standard carbide blade, but using the correct blade will save you many headaches. The blades will "load up" with material and make a mess of things really quick with a standard blade. Same goes for using a router on non-ferrous material. Get the correct bit and make life easier. Burrs for die grinders and band saws - same rules.
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Thanks guys, I cut it with no problems following your advice.
Dennis
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wd40 or kerosene are common cutting lubes for Al.
Bill D
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A German top notch pattern maker showed me how well denatured alcohol works on aluminum. Showed me,because he
sensed I thought the idea seemed nutty. Works well! I think it makes the aluminum crisp ,overcoming its gummyness.
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Used to production cut aluminum in my basement shop all of the time, up to 2.5" solid round bar. Used a 3 hp 10" Kalamazoo chop saw with a triple chip negative rake blade. I was never convinced I had a purpose built aluminum cutting blade. Only problem I had was the gullets were too small and would clog on heavy stock. Used the wax stick in cardboard for lube. I have since ditched that blade and use a similar blade with bigger gullets. Now to just cut a small piece I simply go to my miter saw with whatever blade I have in it as my Kazoo is usually fitted with an abrasive cutoff blade. I've seen the folks at Copper and Brass sales cut thick (2"?) aluminum plate on the floor with a Skil saw. Aluminum will dull your blade no quicker than oak.
Last edited by Ole Anderson; 11-10-2020 at 9:07 AM.
NOW you tell me...
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