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Thread: Who's the best person to insulate a steel building?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cooper View Post
    I’m not sure why they say only closed cell in humid regions. I live in very humid SC and there’s plenty of open cell foam used here
    I believe it's because open cell is so vapor permeable. But they can lay down a thin coat of closed cell for the vapor barrier & then a thicker top coat of open cell for added insulation.

  2. #17
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    Anyone know anything about soundproofing a shop? Like I said in my earlier post, I want to be able to work in the shop late at night and prefer it if the neighbors don't here an ounce of noise. Is there a sound barrier that can be placed in addition to the closed cell foam? From my research the spray foam doesn't really block the sound like other insulation methods do. I called a few other contractors, but nobody answered the phone.

  3. #18
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    Google is the ticket here. There's tons of good information out there, most of it seems to be in the home theater forums, but it would apply to the shop as well. Check out AVS Forum, they have a section on acoustic treatments.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Conner View Post
    Anyone know anything about soundproofing a shop? Like I said in my earlier post, I want to be able to work in the shop late at night and prefer it if the neighbors don't here an ounce of noise. Is there a sound barrier that can be placed in addition to the closed cell foam? From my research the spray foam doesn't really block the sound like other insulation methods do. I called a few other contractors, but nobody answered the phone.
    I helped a friend move a booth used for audio testing so pretty close to sound proof. It's been years but I recall a shell of sheet metal then layers of fiber glass insulation and dry wall - heavy panels - then lined on the inside with noise attenuating foam. The noise attenuating foam would be a no-go in shops, expensive and would collect dust and couldn't be cleaned but fiberglass insulation and dry wall might be possibilities.

  5. #20
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    Closed cell foam is going to stiffen the structure so it vibrates less and transmits less noise. That, combined with keeping the doors closed while you are working should keep any radiated noise to a minimum. Your neighbors would have to be "darn close" for it to be an objectionable sound level, I would think. Having some soft surfaces on the interior will help absorb higher frequencies which is good for what you ask about and also better for you while you are working.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
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    Having built a high-end home theater, as well as my workshop both with soundproofing in mind, there are a number of options I learned.

    I agree that checking out Home Theater Forum is a great start.

    For my present workshop I built walls that are double 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the sheets, then 6" Roxul Safe 'N Sound, then double 5/8" drywall. A double stud wall with an air gap and insulation on both sides is also very effective. Not cheap, but effective. Also provides great insulation from the heat.

    Sound transmission out of my workshop is almost non-existent.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  7. #22
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    People do open cell because they are cheap and it is MUCH cheaper

    Amish did my closed cell on my roof and gable ends. Diesel powered setup in a trailer.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  8. #23
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    I have read in the past that that roll insulation should be installed on the roof as soon as the roof frame is done. The insulation is laid on top of the framing then the roof panels are laid over it. This attaches it firmly. With no hard to fill pockets and provides some thermal separation. I have only read about such type of construction so my advice is not worth much.
    Bill D

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    I have read in the past that that roll insulation should be installed on the roof as soon as the roof frame is done. The insulation is laid on top of the framing then the roof panels are laid over it. This attaches it firmly. With no hard to fill pockets and provides some thermal separation. I have only read about such type of construction so my advice is not worth much.
    Bill D
    This is common with metal buildings and pole barns in many areas if the buyer specifies insulation as part of the build. (Similar material is often used in residential basements when code requires insulation to be installed on the block/concrete walls to gain a CO. It's held in place differently, of course.) It a good way to insulate with minimal air infiltration because the very wide rolls of material limit the number of gaps that have to be addressed so a full envelope is achieved including the vapor barrier.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #25
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    They make spray on sound barrier. It looks like the closed cell foam can be painted, so I don't see why I can't spray sound barrier on after they spray the foam.

  11. #26
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    As Jim stated, closed cell foam is a great insulator and also deadens the sound. I couldn't afford it in my workshop and used Roxul batts instead. They do a good job of insulating and also deaden a lot of the sound. When my table saw is on and you walk around the backside you can hear a whirring sound but can't make out exactly what is. But when you walk around the front where the garage door is, you can tell exactly that a saw is running. I'm happy with the Roxul, does a good job and the price is right. However, if/when i build my dream workshop I would definitely consider closed cell foam.

  12. #27
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    Search it up guys, Open cell is a better sound attenuator than closed cell and neither perform as well as mineral wool.

  13. #28
    Closed cell is much better than open cell for sound transfer. If you're in a cold enough climate though you should start with closed cell then switch to open. This will prevent moisture transfer through condensation & rot issues due to vapor drive.

    I haven't looked at the attenuation of mineral wool but it is IMHO better for the environment as it's a byproduct. You can also self install minimal risk. Also fire, insect & rodent resistant from what I understand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Search it up guys, Open cell is a better sound attenuator than closed cell and neither perform as well as mineral wool.
    This is from a company that sells the DIY kits that are generally 10,000 times worse than CO2

    Benefits of Closed Cell Foam
    Closed cell foam is the best choice for robust insulating where space is an issue, as it can achieve 2x the R-Value of open cell inside a standard wall. Its rigid nature also adds to the structural integrity of the building and E84 fire rated versions are available. The closed cell also acts as a vapor barrier, so water and moisture will be less likely to get inside the home, and the foam itself is unharmed by water damage.

    Benefits of Open Cell Foam
    One of the biggest benefits of open cell foam is that it expands so much after it has been applied, meaning it can insulate hard to reach nooks and crannies in a home. These types of areas can be hard to insulate with closed cell foam. Open cell foam is excellent for soundproofing where a single application can completely fill the area between studs.

    Open cell foam is also much more affordable than closed cell foam, however this foam won’t insulate a house as well as closed cell foam, so it’s not ideal for locations with extreme weather temperatures.
    Last edited by Daniel O'Neill; 10-29-2020 at 11:28 AM. Reason: Mixed up my cell types :)

  14. #29
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    Daniel, I assume you mean that open cell is much better that closed cell for blocking sound transfer.

    I ignored any claims made by insulation manufacturers in my research. The independent research organizations that test various wall assemblies all say pretty close to the same thing. For sound attenuation, mineral wool is best, then fiberglass, which is very closely followed by open cell foam, then closed cell, which is a ways down the list.

    Other materials, such as recycled denim batts and cellulose are also up there close to mineral wool

    Personally, I like mineral wool because of its fire resistance, it's easy to install, and it isn't nearly as irritating as fiberglass.

  15. #30
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    I read those independent claims. The Open cell had an STC of 37 and the closed cell foam was 36. Fiberglass batt and wool was closer to 45-50 STC. What I don't understand is why they claim that it doesn't do much as a sound barrier. unless i'm reading it wrong. I'm not sure if 37 means a 37 decibel reduction or 37 percent, but that's a big amount imo.

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