I have an X5 delta unisaw I think it's a 2003 model. i noticed it kind of growls a bit a few seconds before the blade stops spinning, which leads me to believe the bearings need to be changed. How hard is this?
[OP]
Member
I have an X5 delta unisaw I think it's a 2003 model. i noticed it kind of growls a bit a few seconds before the blade stops spinning, which leads me to believe the bearings need to be changed. How hard is this?
[OP]
Member
It still runs smooth. I can stand a nickel up on the table if that means anything. Almost can stand a dime too.
Contributor
Big brother to the unisaw
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/1214ArborBearings.ashx
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133210-Delta-34-350-12-14-quot-riving-knife-retrofit/page2
Do not stress the arbor arm or it can snap. Load cast iron only in compression never in tension
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ings-on-unisaw
Last edited by Bill Dufour; 10-26-2020 at 11:02 PM.
Contributor
Are you sure it is the bearings? It would take a lot of hobbyist usage to wear out Unisaw bearings in 17 years, unless something else was going on like corrosion. The bearings I replaced 20 years ago in my saw are still going fine.
Contributor
I had to recently replace the bearings on my PM66. I didn't hear any noise but when I had the belts off I could feel the bearings when I spin the blade. They were smooth but just felt dry. I suspect that they were just at the point where the grease was drying out. Might want to try that first.
Contributor
motor or arbor? For some reason all of us, myself included, assumed arbor not motor bearings. Likeley motor bearings are two different sizes. regardless use rubber sealed.
Bil lD.
Member
I did this a couple years ago, I didn't think it was a particularly difficult or tricky job to do. My Unisaw is a USA made early 90's vintage with the long fence and table (54"?). One of the arbor bearings started squealing on start up, then the noise became intermittently persistent. The biggest pain was taking off the fence and my custom made extension table, then putting it all back together again and getting everything flush and square. Changing out the bearings themselves was straightforward, there's a YouTube video that details the procedure as I recall. As I had everything apart on the saw I took the opportunity to give it a good cleaning, change the belts, and lube the trunnion gears.
Member
The bearing operation does not change from running with no load to slowing down phase. I would replace the belts or just tighten them first. Some types of motors make a sound while spooling down, nothing to worry about.
Contributor
Originally Posted by Travis Conner
The most important thing is to get the top back on in the same relationship to the blade. If you don't, none of your miter gauge jigs will fit. Take a dial indicator reading between blade and miter slot BEFORE staring to remove top. DAMHIK!
Contributor
Over at owwm, changing the bearings at 20 years is kind of their rule. I bought a PM66 used, 2001 vintage, and changed out the arbor bearings when I got it. The original bearings were clearly dry. Remember: a bearing in good condition should be silent but drag from the packed grease. Tough to tell with the bearing installed, but age points to replacing it and you possibly have an audible confirmation.
Ditto Bruce's comment about squaring the table afterward. A bearing job is a good couple hours, even if you have the bearings on hand already. And you should familiarize yourself with the replacement process as well as the squaring process beforehand. Lots of resources and videos. Some guys remove the trunion and press the bearings out on the bench (kinda need a chain lift for that if doing it solo), some leave it installed. Some whack the arbor out with a hammer, some use a press. I left the trunion in the saw and pressed the arbor out with a bearing splitter. I do not like to hammer on equipment.
20200706_iphone_0693.jpg
Contributor
I agree buy a bearing splitter. It will be very useful for anyone owning power tools. 1-2inch size is good useful size for home shop use. I use all thread for the forcing bar attachment but a factory made real forcing screw. Ebay is fine for this stuff. Much of the new OTC is made in china and it is better to have a used, but not abused, USA made one.
OTC is probably the best known brand. Even the Harbor freight version is okay for home owner types. Oil the forcing screw before each use.
Bil lD
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