Woodpeckers Hole Boring Jig

[Matt Schroeder]

Alan,

I built the Fine Woodworking "New Fangled Workbench" but felt the pipe clamps in the top well were too fussy to adjust all the time. So, I use the top well with many different drop in inserts, one of which is a 3/4" piece of MDF with holes drilled using the WP boring jig. This is the piece I referenced in an earlier post that was OK for the first set of holes but each successive set got a little looser. I still haven't played with my router to see if I can tighten up the hole spacing, but I figure the motion of moving the router leads to a greater likelihood of movement since a 1/1000 shift in the first set becomes 2/1000 in the second, 3/1000 in the third, etc. I think using the jig with a bushing and 3/4" drill bit would limit the shifting and lead to a more repeatable hole spacing. I like this drop in system since I can mount tools (like my mortiser) or other useful items (like a low profile planing stop) as shown in the attached photo in addition to a hole section with work holding options. I put three carts below the bench so long holdfasts are a little hard to use (have to roll out the carts). I bought the hole boring jig as I figured these pieces would get beat up over time and I wanted to be able to make more at will. I have the WP work holding system and really like it, but want to true up my grid before I make too many more of these pieces. Once I figure out how to make an accurate grid I will make a 2' by 4' section I can lay on top of the workbench for larger glue ups or as a sacrificial cutting station with my track saw, in addition to more drop in pieces of various sizes.

If I had a fixed top in which I was making holes I would start with the fewest number I thought I needed, and add more if a repeated need arose. It seems to me that a whole top of holes spaced to fill the WP boring jig would be too much, since I invariably drop screws through the holes I have, or drip glue into them, or brush piles of sawdust through them and end up wishing there weren't so many darn holes in the piece.

Matt

Workbench.jpg

[Alan Lightstone]

Alan,

... (snip)

If I had a fixed top in which I was making holes I would start with the fewest number I thought I needed, and add more if a repeated need arose. It seems to me that a whole top of holes spaced to fill the WP boring jig would be too much, since I invariably drop screws through the holes I have, or drip glue into them, or brush piles of sawdust through them and end up wishing there weren't so many darn holes in the piece.

Matt

Workbench.jpg

Matt:

I've been thinking the same thing. While I do like the versatility of holes anywhere I might need them, the sheer number of holes to be drilled / routed in my very large workbench top would be nuts...

[Will Blick]

The WP HB Jig was never designed for accuracy. It was designed simply for a means to drill a pattern of holes for work holding clamps as the FOG link discloses. If that is all u will use it for, the WP should suffice, or the other similar jigs.

I think only the Parf system will get you the accuracy if u will be using the holes to make cuts with a track saw. Once perfected, its quite the system, but be prepared, lots of bells n whistles u will buy after the fact making the total cost right up there with a cabinet saw

I used the parf II, and did everything super careful... its very time consuming, its not perfect for sure, but I cant imagine it getting any better at this price point. There is videos that explain how to determine how square your holes came out. In my case, there is some holes I found which are very close to square. So I use those holes for cuts. My point is there is some variability in all these systems, but the Parf does the best job due to errors not magnifying, as you keep moving the starting point with the long sticks. I am sure when I do it again, I will better strategize the method of layout..

Agree with previous poster, 20mm is the bomb today, 3/4" is dated, with minimal accessories vs. 20mm as the MFT system originated in Europe. And the accessories are a field of their own and quite impressive, so glad I switched to the 20mm hole system. Check out Aximster web site and the FOG where they list all the links to accessories. Also agreed, the 20mm holes with parf are very exact, and the quality dogs u buy fit incredibly snug giving potential for a very accurate cutting station.

Also, consider how u will use the top, a hole is not required everywhere.
For others, consider the thickness of your top and how its supported. A flexy top further throws off square, so consider supporting the top ever 12" from below, AWAY from the holes of course....things have progressed a long way since the first MFT tables. IMO, not really a precision cutting station for fine ww, but with a solid MFT top built today with all the right accessories, your top can be both a precision cutting station and a work holding station. Quite the foot print saver as u can avoid a stationary saw.

Also, for those considering this... I do have a cabinet saw. But I cut down 8' sheets with track saw outside, not on my MFT top, as its not quite big enough. Not enough space to cut on cabinet saw. But where I find the MFT top excels is... cutting down mid size panels. For example, a 3'x3' to 4'x4' sheet is a bit cumbersome for a cabinet saw, at least for me, always working solo. You have to support the weight of the sheet before u push it through far enough when the table takes on the material weight... so u start out with u supporting about 60-70% of the weight of the panel and trying to align against a small fence area at the start. IN addition to supporting the panel weight, you have to focus on keeping the material FLAT on the table, up against the fence and forward force through the blade. Sure its doable (been done forever this way), but with limited space, and all the variables, a lot can go wrong, ruining the cut. The added 4' on both sides of the Cabinet saw makes for a large foot print for small shops. This is where my MFT top excels, lay sheet on top, put some dogs in for material, dogs for fence, mark material, drop down the track and its a simple and perfect cut every time. (marking can be avoided by inserting stop fences, such as incra fence, which is made to be removable with accessories) A cabinet saw is hard to beat for <18" wide cross cuts or <40" rips of thinner stock. But these can also be performed quite easily on mft top.

Food for thought, as sometimes we have so many options, deciding how best to set up a shop for your cutting and work holding needs can be confusing. I know I was confused, but through trial and error learned what worked best for my needs, which is a mix of hard woods and sheet goods.

[Alan Lightstone]

The WP HB Jig was never designed for accuracy. It was designed simply for a means to drill a pattern of holes for work holding clamps as the FOG link discloses. If that is all u will use it for, the WP should suffice, or the other similar jigs.

That really was all I was intending to use it for. When I use my track saw, I typically draw an accurate line and clamp the Festool track to it.

Agree with previous poster, 20mm is the bomb today, 3/4" is dated, with minimal accessories vs. 20mm as the MFT system originated in Europe. And the accessories are a field of their own and quite impressive, so glad I switched to the 20mm hole system. Check out Axminster web site and the FOG where they list all the links to accessories.

I've never heard this before. I was under the impression that there were far more 3/4" accessories compared to 20mm. Is this not true? I certainly see tons of 3/4" ones on Lee Valley's website.

Also, consider how u will use the top, a hole is not required everywhere.

I'm really just building mine for assembly of larger pieces. My present Sjoberg's workbench doesn't have enough holes, and they are inconveniently 1" to boot.

[Will Blick]

Then I would use the hole boring jigs, Parf system is way to time consuming and expensive.... its only benefit was precision for square, 45 deg, etc. And u cant use a router, PITA to drill each hole with hand drill. Many users here seem to praise the lower cost and smaller jig, at most, u have to move it a few more times vs. WP.

Well, their is lots of accessories for 3/4" for sure...but the new modern accessories are mostly 20mm... there is so much cool stuff... check out Axminster.com to get a look as they sell a lot of MFT accessories. I have ordered a lot from them despite them being in the UK. They ship like Amazon, I get it in a few days, amazing customer service.

The FOG has some stickies at the top of some forums with links to all the small companies that make accessories... check those out, u might get some ideas that interest you.

The clamps such as Bessey and similar, most can be mounted to both 3/4 or 20mm bottom plates that LV sells, so that is helpful either way. But many of the hold down clamps, MFT squares, dogs on Axminster site, which are just superb, mostly IIRC, are 20mm only. USA companies that make specialized MFT accessories, of course are also 20mm as well.

BTW trying to widen a 3/4 hole to 20mm is nearly impossible, don't ask me how I know this! Below is how I made my MFT top, holes for holding / cutting to the right and solid to the left. stuff falls through the holes, so they can be a nuisance sometimes when not in use, hence my comment about, u dont need holes everywhere, just big enough to hold your work.


So choose wisely so u don't regret the decision down the road.
nodens.jpg

[Alan Lightstone]

OK. Let's think of a game plan to drill 20mm holes instead. And use the Woodpeckers jig that I have.

BTW, Fedex finally is shipping my 3/4" bushing. Only took McMaster-Carr two months to send it.

Would I have to find a 20mm drill bit (probably not too hard to find) and order another custom drill bushing from McMaster-Carr and wait another 2 months, or is the Woodpeckers jig and a router a reasonable approach? The OD of the holes on the WP jig is 1.47", so not possible to just order a bushing off the shelf.

[Jim Becker]

Will, that top on your Adjust-a-Bench is really nicely done!

Alan, 20mm tooling for a router or as a forstner is pretty easy to come by. The downside to the router tooling is that the most easily obtained 20mm cutter is the Freud, in my experience, and it only has a .25" shank. Forstner bits for a drill, however, common. I'm not familiar with that jig and what it uses.

[Will Blick]

Thx Jim... the rear Noden bench I use for outfeed and assembly. I made it super flat, just need to be careful when raising and lowering, a little on both sides vs. one feel swoop.
the MFT one is 1", consisting of two 1/2" HD MDF sheets pinned together at the corners, then drilled...
when the top gets destroyed, I just pull up the bottom 1/2" sheet and put it on the top, and re pin it. Still have the 1" stability, but getting a two-for-one top as for drilling. There is very few accessories that do NOT work with 1" vs. 3/4" thickness, the Festool clamps is ONE of them, which I dont use anyway, so many better options avail today.


The WP boring jig uses a 1/2" upcut spiral bit regardless of which size hole u want, 20mm or 3/4". The difference is the guide bushing. They offer it both the 20mm and 3/4 bushing, you plunge down and move the bushing around the edge of the Phenolic hole to expand the hole to final size. (a clever approach) So u would need the 20mm guide bushing... the kit was sold in 3 flavors (both, Imperial or Metric), which was kind of stupid if they don't stock the other bushings, as if someone wants to change from 3/4" to metric in the future, and WP does not sell the metric bushing, kinda out of luck... check with WP, hopefully they have the bushing u desire.

their video will make it clear...

https://youtu.be/T6nfTo2uRBc?t=39

[Jim Becker]

Sounds like a great setup, Will. And thanks for the jig explanation...spiral makes sense in the context.

[Alan Lightstone]

The WP boring jig uses a 1/2" upcut spiral bit regardless of which size hole u want, 20mm or 3/4". The difference is the guide bushing. They offer it both the 20mm and 3/4 bushing, you plunge down and move the bushing around the edge of the Phenolic hole to expand the hole to final size. (a clever approach) So u would need the 20mm guide bushing... the kit was sold in 3 flavors (both, Imperial or Metric), which was kind of stupid if they don't stock the other bushings, as if someone wants to change from 3/4" to metric in the future, and WP does not sell the metric bushing, kinda out of luck... check with WP, hopefully they have the bushing u desire.

their video will make it clear...

https://youtu.be/T6nfTo2uRBc?t=39

Will, fortunately I bought the combination 20mm and 3/4" WP jig, so I have that 20mm bushing. I think I will go that route. Of course, the 3/4" bushing that will arrive by Monday is now officially a waste of money, but oh well.

Now, my latest problem is having to build a jig to center the 20mm holes on the moveable vise jaw. The WP spacing is all wrong for that. So the sage continues...

[Will Blick]

for a vice, u typically only need two holes
draw a line which is concentric with the holes on the bench which extends to the vice.
make a cross hair at 90deg to that line in the area u want the hole.
center the WP hole around that cross hair, clamp down the jig, and make a hole the same way
do the same on the other side of the vice...
Maybe your application is more complex, but that's how I have done it...

[Jim Becker]

Alan, plan the start of your grid so its supportive of your vice needs if you can. Sometimes adjusting the size and position of a vice can be helpful with that, too, depending on the type/design.