Parallel Guide for slider

[Derek Cohen]

It was while I was ripping to 40x40mm for stool legs before turning, that it occurred to me that a parallel guide would make life easier.

I was too tired to focus on shaping and installing the stretchers today ...



... and decided instead to build the fixture I had in mind. This was to be a cross between a parallel guide and a Fritz and Franz. I is so simple, that I am sure others have built something similar. But I wanted to share it because I think that this is going to be so useful.

It's not large, about 1m long, and not too wide, just 300mm. I could have made it longer and wider, but it is intended for breaking down chair and table legs, and it needs to get plonked on the slider wagon without having to move anything. The base is a 18mm thick Merbau hardwood panel from the local borg. Cheap and very stable.








There is aluminium angle for a fence, which sides back-and-forth on T-track. The fence has non-slip, and there are two hold downs.

The far side is clamped down ....



There is a touch of wiggle room to set the side of the table against an outside-facing tooth of the blade ...



The near end is aligned with the zero clearance on the crosscut fence ...





... and is secured by a hold down clamp.

Here is a full shot ...



The potential for this is huge. Not only can the fixture hold thin or wide boards for ripping or jointing - producing an edge ready for glueing - but also tapering legs.



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

Very nice fixture.

A kewel variant of this might be something that can hold the billet "between centers" once squared so you can remove the corners without tilting the blade. I believe that was part of the previous discussion's focus if my memory serves. That may be something you could physically attach to this fixture after squaring.

BTW, I'm doing a small side table along the same lines as your pictured stools, to this is very relevant to me right now!

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Jim.

You recall correctly that there was an issue with ripping bevels. I need to think about this some more as I am not sure how to do this securely on this fixture.

One thought is a mitred sub-fence, which lays the work piece on a 45-degree angle. It then needs to be held to prevent it moving - remember, these are narrow, light pieces. Any thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Wes Grass]

How about vacuum?

[David L Morse]

Nice! I need that. Your idea has just been stolen.

[Steve Wurster]

Very nice, Derek. Your jigs are always top notch!

I've been thinking about making something like this for my slider, although possibly using those dovetail-based clamps instead of installing T-tracks. I figured a cleat on the bottom would line it up with the slot in the slider, and some kind of fence mechanism for tapering. I haven't bothered to make anything yet though because I don't have the need for it just yet, and I also don't know where I would store it. Ha ha!

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim.

You recall correctly that there was an issue with ripping bevels. I need to think about this some more as I am not sure how to do this securely on this fixture.

One thought is a mitred sub-fence, which lays the work piece on a 45-degree angle. It then needs to be held to prevent it moving - remember, these are narrow, light pieces. Any thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I need to think about this, but there's gotta be a solution.