Dedicated TS for finger joints

[Lisa Starr]

The sled I use for making box joints is modeled after Mr. Ng's. I just want to put the dado stack on a saw and leave the whole thing set up for using it frequently.

[Alex Zeller]

You may want to look for an older cabinet saw. I occasionally see them without a fence or wings (usually in auctions) and they sell for peanuts. For box joints you wouldn't need a riving knife and if it didn't have wings it would probably take up less room than a contractors saw. An old PM66 or Unisaw would have the added advantage of being able to replace the arbor if it's not true. Right now prices are a little higher than they were just 6 months ago but they will come back down. I would think you could find one that would work for less than $200.

[Tom Bussey]

I am setting up a table saw to cut finger joints at the present.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

You can even find used delta contractor saws pretty cheap, I just bought one for $200, if you can't find a cool older one, the "newer" belt drive stuff isn't badly priced. I personally have a dado specific Unisaw, absolutely love not having to mess around setting up every time I want to cut one.

[Jim Becker]

You may want to look for an older cabinet saw. I occasionally see them without a fence or wings (usually in auctions) and they sell for peanuts. For box joints you wouldn't need a riving knife and if it didn't have wings it would probably take up less room than a contractors saw. An old PM66 or Unisaw would have the added advantage of being able to replace the arbor if it's not true. Right now prices are a little higher than they were just 6 months ago but they will come back down. I would think you could find one that would work for less than $200.

I think this idea has merit...these saws have arbors that generally are designed to handle a dado stack well and they have a bit more power to cut smoothly with less variability in RPM when they start taking their bite. That could result in even better quality box joints.