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Thread: Help with HVLP Spayer Choice

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    So you want us to help you spend money on a compressor, too? LOL

    The good news is that Jeff has the setup in LVLP, too, which should make the compressor specifications more approachable. I went with HPLV because that's what I'm used to, but both types are available in the packages he puts together. I realize that doesn't answer your question, but it is the start of a pathway to the answer. Get the specifications for the gun(s) and then the community can better help.

    FYI, I use a 60 gallon IR that's been in my shop for many years. For spraying finish, I find that having a larger air supply is more important than raw SCFM and mine doesn't run all that much. Many guns are pretty forgiving, too.
    I was looking for help with a compressor but I started to edumacate myself a little bit on the LVLP guns which is probably the best choice for my situation but haven't found (yet) the downsode vs HVLP systems. There has to be a downside or HVLP systems wouldn't exist. Everything is a balance of tradeoffs...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    That would be Jeff Jewitt, owner of Homestead Finishing and writer of many well known/recommended books on finishing.
    He got back quick and recommended the LVLP gun https://www.ebay.com/itm/254733254081.

    I don't know the guy but you say he is a legit resource and you haven't led me astray yet. But I have a nagging question I haven't heard an answer (still searching). IFFFF the LVLP work just as well as HVLP why do HVLP guns even exist then? If there is a legitimate benefit of HVLP I would consider a compressor upgrade but I am getting the sense they are both very good methods.

    I am seeing a few good reviews from other sources about Homestead products.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by John McKissick View Post
    I was looking for help with a compressor but I started to edumacate myself a little bit on the LVLP guns which is probably the best choice for my situation but haven't found (yet) the downsode vs HVLP systems. There has to be a downside or HVLP systems wouldn't exist. Everything is a balance of tradeoffs...
    Please understand here that HPLV and LPLV are separate things from the air source. You can have both kinds of guns with a turbine system (what you were originally asking about but referred to as an HPLV system) and both kinds of guns with a compressor air source.

    As to your other question. LVLP guns have become more popular in recent years. There were none that I'm aware of back when I bought my first Wagner gun in about 2003 or so. I chose that format when I bought the new gun from Jeff about a year and a half ago, but certainly could have bought the LVLP gun. I just didn't think of it. The nice thing about LVLP is that their air demands can be more approachable for many folks while they upgrade to better equipment and better spraying results while at the same time helping to reduce overspray and material quantity since the "Low Volume" part conceivably provides better control over the actual finish flow. Etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
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    Last edited by Tom M King; 10-19-2020 at 7:03 PM.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    To get a good quality LVLP gun, it's going to cost a Lot more money than most woodworkers are willing to spend. I did a Google search, and found this.

    https://sprayerguide.com/hvlp-vs-lvlp/
    I am looking closely at this one which was referenced earlier in this thread. So far my main hesitation is the brand is not more popular and sold through more than one (reliable) source.

    Are you familiar with this gun?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/254733254081

  6. #21
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    John, Jeff has been selling QualSpray for a long time now. I can tell you that I'm uber-pleased with my gun and I bought it on the recommendation of John T here who I consider a very reliable finishing mentor to the community. If you do some quick searching on Jeff Jewitt online, you'll get to know who he is. Two of the three books recently recommended by Jeff Weiss of Target Coatings were written by Jeff Jewitt.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    I edited my previous post, because I was not thinking correctly when I posted that. I was thinking about the Sata RP guns, which are Reduced Pressure, but not LVLP. I looked at the Devilbiss, and Sata websites, and neither list a LVLP gun. They cater to the automotive spraying world, but those guns work wonderfully for spraying woodwork too. They do make no account for thicker coatings, unless you include the specialized guns for Primers.

    If it will go through a 1.3 orifice, I'm using a Devilbiss Tekna Prolite. For small things, the Iwata LPH80. For house paint, I use airless.

    Edited to add: I looked on the Iwata site. They don't mention LVLP there, but do have one gun they call LVP. http://anestiwata.com/wp-
    content/uploads/2012/09/LPH101LVP-LPH200-LVP-flyer.pdf


    I think those high end gun manufacturers are staying away from the term LVLP because it might sound like it means slower coverage to the automotive guys, but expect they're still going towards what lower pressure can do to provide benefits.

    I owned the high end Apollo turbine rig for a few years, but sold it when Graco came out with a AAA rig. I sold that as quick as I could after they started making regular airless guns that could take a FF (fine finish) tips, and those were quickly improved to the FFLP tips (fine finish low pressure). Now I'm down to two basic rigs, and no turbine (other than a cheap single stage that's only used for highly thinned oil based primer).

    Someone made a comment earlier that dry air shouldn't make as much difference with a waterbourne finish. My automotive spraying friends say dry air if more important for waterbourne, than solvent. I've never bothered to research, or ask why. I use a refrigerated dryer (off CL), so moisture is no concern.

    Some say they get good results with the HF guns. I've never been able to spray with one that gives a surface that flows out perfectly, but I don't claim to be the best gunner. I get by pretty good though. I don't want to have to work on a surface a lot after I spray it.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 10-19-2020 at 7:25 PM.

  8. #23
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    Dry air is very good for spraying finishes including waterbornes. One factor that does come into play with these faster drying finishes is that turbines tend to supply "warmer" air which can affect drying characteristics. So folks learn to deal with that as they dial things in.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    John, Jeff has been selling QualSpray for a long time now. I can tell you that I'm uber-pleased with my gun and I bought it on the recommendation of John T here who I consider a very reliable finishing mentor to the community. If you do some quick searching on Jeff Jewitt online, you'll get to know who he is. Two of the three books recently recommended by Jeff Weiss of Target Coatings were written by Jeff Jewitt.
    Everything I can find on him and his company is positive and I am pretty close to pulling the trigger, literally and figuratively, on the LVLP kit. Unfortunately he is currenly out of either the PPS cups or the PPS kit, not sure which but I am fine having the large bottom feed cup and add the 3M system in dure course.

    I don't remember if you said you ran thick product like latex and how that went? Bigger atomizer (1.8)? Thinned? Don't expect to do much of that but good to know what's involved if I do.

  10. #25
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    My comment on dry air was based neither in data nor experience, so I'm happy to be corrected. Just the thought that the minute amount of incremental water in humid air was unlikely to contaminate a stream of finish that was already 95% water.

  11. #26
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    My unit came as a kit...while the original metal cup was in the case, the PPS gear was included for the package price. Ask him about getting the kit pricing benefit, even if he has to ship you the base gun first. The changeover is easy as it's just a matter of swapping the cup mount stem and that's a screw off, screw on procedure.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #27
    John,

    I've had a Fuji 3-stage (with 2 different guns) for almost 10 years now and really love it. I also have a pretty nice (but not top of the line) conversion gun that I use with my compressor. I prefer the turbine unit. For ease of use - the conversion is nice - no setup of the unit. I started with a conversion gun, but after a couple of years, sprung for the turbine.

    Now, I spray all of my top coats with the turbine - both waterborne and solvent based. I now use the conversion gun if I need to spray anything thick like paints. However, I have sprayed top coat with it and still prefer the turbine. It just seems to me that I don't get nearly as much bounce back from the turbine gun - it just seems 'softer'.

    If you have a good gun, you can get great results with either one. I just really like the 'feel' of the spray coming from the Fuji.

    I hope this helps - it probably just confused you more

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Sevier View Post
    John,


    I hope this helps - it probably just confused you more
    Well that aint hard to do...lol

    Thanks for your input. One thing I have learned in this thread is how little I know about spraying. Pretty much a brush/roller guy over the years. I had the HomeRight, used it a few times now I can't get it to work right. I din't expect it to last long because it's made by Wagner but I was hoping a little longer.

  14. #29
    I'm late to this thread but I'll agree with an earlier poster about using a conversion gun in the shop with a small compressor. It's unusual to be spraying continuously in the shop which gives your compressor time to 'catch up". I once sprayed something at a client's place with a pancake compressor. Just had to break up the job.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  15. #30
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    Hey, I have a thought, though it may not be a good thought as I'm reading this and taking notes for myself in the (near I hope) future. But, I remember hearing how good the low-end purple HF gun is for thin finishes. I wonder if getting it, it's on sale for $9.99 for two more days, and practicing with current compressor and either shellac or water on cardboard is a useful experiment. Clearly some things will be different, but some things should transfer and it seems it'd give a point of reference OP, (and I,) are missing in this discussion.

    Thoughts? (Go on, I probably deserve them this time. )

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