How to square tracks for Track Saw

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I've recently purchased the cordless Makita track saw and I'm really liking it (thanks to a discussion on this forum)!

However, I'm struggling some with a quick efficient way to square the rail to the panel. I can get it square using my squares and such.

I looked up what was available and it looks like there are a couple of track rail squares that cost around $160-$180 (TRS GRS-16 & Insta-RailSquare).

I'm curious what others use to quickly square the track.

[Mike Nardini]

I have both the TSOProducts GRS-16 and the GRS-16 PE and they are excellent. I sometimes use both when cutting long pieces to ensure perfectly square. I would get the PE if I could only get one as it is more versatile.

[mike stenson]

I have the GRS-16 as well, not the PE.. and if I used it more often I would get one.

I did get their track connectors recently and do recommend.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I have the insta rail square and kick myself every time I use it for not buying it sooner.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Also have the TSO GRS-16PE, had it for about 5 years, and use it a lot on sheet goods.

Very satisfied with it.

[Dave Sabo]

Quick , efficient , and more importantly accurate means a rail square.

TSO makes one of the best in my opinion , and has lots of add ons for it should you need or want their capability. It would appear to be the best out there based on Festool’s licensing of the design for their own product in all markets outside the U.S.

[Brian Tymchak]

I have a hard time digesting $180 for that accessory, but I'm a "light" user of the track saw.. I use a carpenters square which I know to be accurate to set the track. I give up the ability to clamp the track in place, and maybe that would be the feature that justifies the purchase if I used the track saw more.

[Jim Becker]

With a decent track saw track you shouldn't need to square the track...square the guideline you're setting the edge on. IE, the layout lines directly on the workpiece, if accurate, should result in an accurate cut because a decent track doesn't move.

[mike stenson]

With a decent track saw track you shouldn't need to square the track...square the guideline you're setting the edge on. IE, the layout lines directly on the workpiece, if accurate, should result in an accurate cut because a decent track doesn't move.

While true, I don't need to layout a line. I measure, mark, drop the track square and cut.

Like anything else, these things are just time savers.. I mean heck, I CAN and have just cut these things freehand with a handsaw too (I really hate doing this with sheet goods), etc.

[Thomas Crawford]

Seems the main advantage here is speed, just mark one corner and go instead of laying out the whole line?

[Jim Becker]

While true, I don't need to layout a line. I measure, mark, drop the track square and cut.

Like anything else, these things are just time savers.. I mean heck, I CAN and have just cut these things freehand with a handsaw too (I really hate doing this with sheet goods), etc.

I think we're saying the same thing...line or points. Put the track on them and cut.

[mike stenson]

I think we're saying the same thing...line or points. Put the track on them and cut.

Oh we are. I obviously missed a couple things on the first read. Still on cup of coffee #1 this morning

[Ole Anderson]

I cut a piece of birch ply square using the five cut method (about 16" square) and glued a rail along one edge to catch the edge of the stock to be cut. It serves as a cheap but accurate square. I just slide the rail up against it's edge.

[Jamie Buxton]

Yeah, the commercial rail squares do seem a bit spendy. I made my own. It is essentially a big speed square which clips on to the rail with the same kind of draw latch used by the commercial rail squares. My speed square is built from some baltic birch I had around the shop. Took me less than an hour.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Yeah, the commercial rail squares do seem a bit spendy. I made my own. It is essentially a big speed square which clips on to the rail with the same kind of draw latch used by the commercial rail squares. My speed square is built from some baltic birch I had around the shop. Took me less than an hour.

Jamie this is exactly what I am planning to do. I ordered some spring toggle clamps from Amazon and I'm going to attach them to a an aluminum Milwaukee speed square (I may attach 2 together but likely one is all that's needed - the second could extend beneath the rail).

I'm sure the commercial units are nice but the cheap side of me is having trouble with the cost. They appear to be nicely machined pieces that are made well so I understand the price and they have to make a living to. If I were a professional cabinet maker I wouldn't hesitate buying them. But I'm just a hobbyist that has to provide some level of justification to my wife :-)