Repairing crack in wooden plane

[Eric Rathhaus]

I have wooden plane with a crack that runs lengthwise, picture attached. I'm considering two options to repair the crack, but I'd like feedback/suggestions/dope slaps . . .

I don't want to remove the handle. Should I bite the bullet and take it out before repairing?

For repair, I'm considering 1) widening the crack slightly and then injecting some epoxy for wood or 2) widening the crack and inserting wood shim with regular wood glue.

Are there better methods? Again all comments welcome. Thanks,

Ericjointer crack1.jpg

[Jason Buresh]

Eric,

My suggestion would be epoxy. I fixed a tote on a number 4 hand plane that re-cracked when i used wood glue, but has been ok so far with epoxy. I think epoxy has better impact resistance than wood glue. Because you will be pounding on a wooden plane to adjust it i think the epoxy will hold up better. Just my 2 cents.

[Jim Koepke]

Without closer examination my opinion is not verifiable. With that said it looks as if there may have been a difference in the expansion of the tote and the body resulting in a crack.

Often an old crack like this has no effect on the plane and doesn't affect its use.

When flexing the body of the plane every way you can in your hands can you see the crack opening or movement of the wood? If this is a no, then the crack will likely not cause problems in use.

It may be necessary to remove the tote if possible to keep it from expanding against the body and enlarging the crack.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

Is there still lateral "play" for the iron?

Sometimes replacement irons are too wide and force the cheeks apart.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Here are a few more images. The blade does have room for lateral movement. There is no flex. This is a 28" beast that probably weighs over 10 lbs. I just want to ensure it lasts another 100 years.plane1.jpgplane 2.jpgplane 3.jpg

[Rafael Herrera]

That check seems to be due to drying. I'm not sure that there's anything you can do except wait until your plane acclimatizes to your workshop. When the split is in the cheeks, that's repairable, but yours is in the middle of the body, it won't affect the function of the plane as long as the plane stabilizes in your shop.

In some literature it was suggested to infuse the plane in raw linseed planes to mitigate drastic moisture changes in planes. Other literature claimed that it was detrimental to do so. A Marples user warning note on new planes recommended against this practice.

[Oskar Sedell]

I cant view the pictures but add my 2 cents anyway. I´m a fan of low viscosity CA glue for reparing cracks in wood (or stone or anything). If the crack is not already wide the CA glue flows in by capillary forces. Then clamp it up and let harden.

Good luck!

[Michael Bulatowicz]

Am I misinterpreting what I see in the images or is the blade/cap iron assembly upside down?

[Warren Mickley]

I suggest thinking about how the crack is affecting the function of the plane. I doubt that the crack is changing any more than perhaps some slight seasonal opening and closing.

My trying plane was made around 1900. When I bought it it had a crack at the front, a crack at the back, and a crack at the strike button. I have used it hard for 42 years. The cracks are not a problem.

[Jim Matthews]

Do what Warren says - he's never steered me wrong.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Thanks for responses. I just received the plane and haven't used it yet, but I don't believe the crack will affect functioning in any way. My concern was more towards conservation; I wanted to stop the crack before it progressed to the point that it affected the plane's utility. Seems like I can put aside my worries and use it. BTW - It's an Ohio Tool plane so it must be at least 100 years old.