dough board, bread board whatever they are called

[Bruce King]

I made a serving tray with 3/4 cherry years ago. Used box joints and glue on the ends/handles. No back. Nothing has moved or cracked in 22 years. Wood movement on small projects using 3/4 thick wood is over emphasized. We use this a lot now for a table in the truck for take out meals.

[Warren Lake]

not at all, ive looked at work for 40 years and seen people who didnt think so either.

[Jim Becker]

we were taught to do drawers tongue and groove and that applies here. I thought about that and thouhgt id prefer a rabbet as i can use some sort of floating system. Ive done that several ways. Pinning at the front, thats a good idea as its not pinned at the front with a piece running accross like the back.

That would work as long as you work out the tenon/panel edge length and groove depth so that it covers the anticipated wood movement for that particular wood species and is adjusted for the particular season you're building in. You want it so it will always stay in the groove and not bottom out to the back. This would be cleaner than the sliding dovetail or similar idea although racking could still be a factor with no fixed apron on the open end.

I'm really glad you posted about this, Warren...it's a very thought provoking project! I'm now considering doing something like this just to do it.

[Warren Lake]

that type of joint would likely work better for a drawer than this application. We were taught that for drawers but I felt bottom line for a drawer is the mass produced dovetail. Then better from there depending on the piece.

Rabbet is likely a better choice for this, then it can get a bit more complicated if stop dadoes are used. I understand the possibility for wood movement and respect it from seeing all the fails over the years just back up what the old guy taught.

Sorry but I dont get the sliding dovetail at all other than if it was a very small dovetail there would be not enough meat on the bottom of the side left and it would be weak, the concept is good but this not in the middle of a side, its at the bottom of a board.

[Mark Stutz]

In the early 1800's they would have just attached the back and sides with cut nails. That would be a reasonable option, since they will allow for the little movement you are likely to see with this piece.

[roger wiegand]

As a pretty serious lifelong baker, a descendant serious bakers (and pasta makers) who taught me, I'm having trouble understanding how/why you would use this. Are they for people who don't have a wood table or counter to work on? Or does it enable something else? None of my grandmothers, great aunts, or great-great aunts and grandmothers I knew had one and we covered both German and Italian traditions. Do they come from someplace else, like Scandinavia?

Don't get me wrong, it looks like a nice project, just trying to learn what my baking life has been missing.

[mike stenson]

@ Roger, yea... my wife's been throwing a wood board on a countertop with a non-slip pad under it for years.. literally as long as I've known her. These seem to be pretty much that, with a bench hook built in (I'm not sure I understand it being boxed in, at most I'd add a low back, so you have two working sides.. hey, it IS a bench hook then!).

[Warren Lake]

when I reshingled my roof. Pretty much every one of the 7 inch pine boards was loose. They were put on with nails. All the holes were well oversize from movement. I get more changes its a roof. I ripped the boards in half per the certainteed manual and stapled with 2" heavy Sencos with glue on the tips. It was solid. No interest in nails on a thing like this. Get they allow some movement. Seen enough fails over the years from movement.

Here is another style. Also one where they didnt know or care about movement. Not ideal considering what its used for.



81DlwotA8kL._AC_SL1500_.jpg 6fe3847ed57fcac1dbebdb18ca4d2466.jpg

[mike stenson]

I've seen a lot more wire nails fail than cut nails though. They wedge in, well.

[Jim Becker]

Warren, the style in that first picture is the one that looks more familiar to me...with the hook on the front underside to keep it from moving farther onto the counter while working the dough. I use a variation of that for my regular cutting board...the "hook" is to the side so it stays at the left end of the island.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Going back to my original post, one thing I would change is to make the last couple inches of bottom on open side of tray a sliding dovetail, with no glue. This would hold open end of tray together, while allowing for wood movement.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Remember, whatever the length of the baker's rolling pin is, plus a couple inches on every side would be functionally correct. The raised sides, while an interesting detail is more like a serving tray, than something a baker would use. The raised sides would get in the way, unless this is very wide and very deep.

But I like to bake pies and pastries. If your baker bakes smaller profile items and won't use a rolling pin, then you're good.

[Billy Merrill]

In may part of the USA.
Post #1, that is a chopping block used to chop or slice cooked meats like whole hog. Have one. Search Ed's Shape Shack on Facebook for some of the finest ones made.
Post #8, first picture: Pasty or dough board. The cleat keeps the board from sliding when kneading doughs. Have one as well, but use it to trim meats since it stays but on the counter.
Post #8, second picture: Something grandpa threw together with whatever he had to satisfy grandma, and she loved it.

[Warren Lake]

I put the last photo to show what can happen when people dont pay attention to wood movement.

The sliding dovetail like i said dont see it its not mid cabinet. its at the bottom edge of the sides and would be weak to machine that there.

The tongue and groove joint we were taught on drawers would work fine, even though its harder to pin than a rabbet would be but it would not need to be pinned., only the front glued and fastened then the bottom could move in the slot with no issues.