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Thread: Ripping square, then ripping bevels on a slider .... !

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Ripping square, then ripping bevels on a slider .... !

    I am in the process of building a number of stools (based on Wharton Esherick's famous design). The seats are shaped and the mortices cut. Now I need to build the legs.

    The slider (Hammer K3 short stroke), using an F&F jig, was great for breaking down a wide Hard Maple board roughly 2" thick. The legs were ti be turned from 40mm square sections. This was completed using this simple fixture: a length of veneered ply with two hold downs and a side stop (this was screwed on for here, but I would like to make up a sliding version). This fixture enabled rapid setting up of 40x40mm sides ...



    Leg section positioned ...



    Ripping underway ...



    Now I wanted to bevel the sides in preparation for the lathe and turning cylinders.

    I could not do it! The blade leans the wrong way to do this (right tilt) ..



    And there is too little registration to clamp the leg to the slider.

    So how would you do this? (I ended up using a scrub plane - painless).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 10-13-2020 at 3:35 AM.

  2. #2
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    Hi Derek, isn't that blade tilting left in that last photo? No idea how to cut that bevel on a slider. I clamp or sometimes double-side tape narrow pieces to a carrier board and run thru against the fence (left tilt saw). Offcut falls below the blade.

    Edit: I just realized that that last photo may be using a different saw?
    Last edited by Brian Tymchak; 10-13-2020 at 8:29 AM.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  3. #3
    If I am understanding you correctly you want to have the wood to the right of the blade when you make the cut? Like if you made a jig to run against the fence on a traditional saw but want to use the slider? if that's the case how about a ply "sled" wide enough to clamp on the slider side and wide enough to fix your material for the cut on the right, you would need to build a "bridge" that would tall enough to not cut through, I have done similar but smaller type jigs for the slider for cutting short stubby bridal joints for example. idk, could be completely off here....


    Mark

  4. #4
    Weird, I am not seeing photos...

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Hi Derek, isn't that blade tilting left in that last photo? No idea how to cut that bevel on a slider. I clamp or sometimes double-side tape narrow pieces to a carrier board and run thru against the fence (left tilt saw). Offcut falls below the blade.

    Edit: I just realized that that last photo may be using a different saw?

  5. #5
    ok, now I am - work computer must strip them. so yea guess my original comment of making a sled with a bridge could work. that last photo must be on a regular ol' cab saw?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    Weird, I am not seeing photos...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Hi Derek, isn't that blade tilting left in that last photo? No idea how to cut that bevel on a slider. I clamp or sometimes double-side tape narrow pieces to a carrier board and run thru against the fence (left tilt saw). Offcut falls below the blade.

    Edit: I just realized that that last photo may be using a different saw?
    Hi Brian

    Yes, the table saw is a different saw. It tilts left. My slider tilts right.

    A 40x40mm leg-to-be cannot be attached to a carrier board on the slider as it is too narrow to be held securely.

    The thought of running the board under the angled blade leaves my blood cold.

    I have freehanded legs through a bandsaw, carving away a bevel. In the current case, I used a scrub plane, and this did the task quickly and safely. I am curious about the slider, and how this might be accomplished using the wagon.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    If I am understanding you correctly you want to have the wood to the right of the blade when you make the cut? Like if you made a jig to run against the fence on a traditional saw but want to use the slider? if that's the case how about a ply "sled" wide enough to clamp on the slider side and wide enough to fix your material for the cut on the right, you would need to build a "bridge" that would tall enough to not cut through, I have done similar but smaller type jigs for the slider for cutting short stubby bridal joints for example. idk, could be completely off here....


    Mark
    Mark, has anyone done this?

    How to clamp the work piece securely?

    How safe would it be?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #8
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    You kinda need to rip the bevels while the board is still a wide one since on a slider you can't move the fence to the opposite side of the blade. The bandsaw can also be employed for this work and then do your cleanup with planes as you will anyway.

    As an aside, the Wharton Esherick Museum is nearby and I'm glad I had the pleasure of visiting it a few years ago. Fascinating place (it was his home) including a "wow" floor in the kitchen. Should you ever travel to this side of the planet, be sure to put it on your list of places to visit.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 10-13-2020 at 9:14 AM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. I usually put a temporary fence on my bandsaw and tilt the table to 45 degrees. Then rip and rotate until you have the octagonal shape. Seems pretty safe and accurate.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Jim ... thanks for the offer to put me up ... along with my wife, our 16 children ... a few weeks?

    Incidentally, this is one of Esherick's stools ...



    More complex than it looks.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Giles View Post
    I usually put a temporary fence on my bandsaw and tilt the table to 45 degrees. Then rip and rotate until you have the octagonal shape. Seems pretty safe and accurate.
    Christopher, that sounds too sensible

    I have this on my list for future legs.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  12. #12
    I'd probably do it on a jointer w/ fence tilted back at 45deg; also safe and accurate. It is a LOT of passes I guess (depending on number of stools), but probably about the same as the scrub plane?

    (The temperature in my shop might weigh heavily in this math!)

  13. #13
    Here is a super rough idea but the details would need tweaking based on your known geometry. The vee block “vee’s” would need to be tall enough to locate the block on the last cut because it will have a flat on it, depending you could register the block in another way so this is just an idea. I would personally have no safety concerns with this type of set up but some may, I would probably use a bandsaw to do this unless I wanted a less rough cut.

    here is a Mickey Mouse quick sketch
    549E1BFB-B230-48AC-8AA5-861A13CCC00E.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Mark, has anyone done this?

    How to clamp the work piece securely?

    How safe would it be?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Thanks Jim ... thanks for the offer to put me up ... along with my wife, our 16 children ... a few weeks?
    I think the latter part of that family description is likely at least partial fiction 'cause all that baby making wouldn't leave any time or energy for woodworking.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Sounds like the answer is to not use the slider. tablesaw or bandsaw get my vote.

    Be sure to post photos of the 23 of you at Jim's place . . .
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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