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Thread: Bay window bench

  1. #16
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    Dec 2014
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    My local hardwood supplier does not offer birch plywood. They either offer maple ply or apple ply (which I think is a equiv to birch ply) there is another lumber supplier semi local, but they are 1 hour one way and only open week days. It shouldn't be more than a couple sheets so I will just suck it up and go with whatever is cheaper.

    I am going to start sketching out some designs / drawings and doing cabinet building research. I think I will forgo the drawers and just do doors, with pull outs.

  2. #17
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    I've decided I want to make the angled end cainets have doors at well. But I need to leave the angled portion without a panel to leave access to the outlets. Would a bottom and top stretcher say 2" wide provide enough rigidity to the cabinet?

    Also how would I attach those angled cuts to the front?

    Thanks

  3. #18
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J Evans View Post
    I've decided I want to make the angled end cainets have doors at well. But I need to leave the angled portion without a panel to leave access to the outlets. Would a bottom and top stretcher say 2" wide provide enough rigidity to the cabinet?
    I would recommend building the cabinet with the panel, then cutting a hole for access to the outlets.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J Evans View Post
    Also how would I attach those angled cuts to the front?
    You could cut an angled block that attaches to the front and then screw/glue/staple the panel to that. Or you could probably use pocket screws on the backside of the panel to the front and other side.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    I would recommend building the cabinet with the panel, then cutting a hole for access to the outlets.



    You could cut an angled block that attaches to the front and then screw/glue/staple the panel to that. Or you could probably use pocket screws on the backside of the panel to the front and other side.
    Thanks Brian

  5. #20
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    Any real difference between Borg birch ply and a hardwood supplier birch ply? Price difference is about $12, per sheet.

    Also 1/2" should be plenty strong for something like this correct?

  6. #21
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    Apr 2017
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    Poplar is nice to work and to paint. Use it for frames etc. Make the panels from your choice of plywood. Cheap ply will need grain filler. I have used plaster with success but there are better options.

    If you build it with legs to hold it 2" to 4" off the floor you can just leave the heat duct as it is. And the outlets can be accessed by cords on the floor. You will want to make holes in the back of your cabinet to accommodate plugs sticking out, (into the cabinet). You may need to make cutouts in the back of the shelves too.

    Build the interior with continuous shelves from end to end. You could then store hockey sticks in there. It will probably need just one intermediate shelf.

    Make the top with a 1" overhang all around. This will allow it to go tight to the wall despite the baseboard trim. And it will give you space for edge treatment. To make a roundover without a router, use a hand plane and RO Sander. Practice as much as you can first so it comes out looking good.

  7. #22
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    1/2 ply has been purchased.
    Just trying to finalize design details. Now that I've drawn it out, it's looking like to many cabinet doors if that makes sense. Trying to decide if I want to have open shelves in the middle, then two cabinet doors, then open for the ends. Or four cabinets in the middle and then open frame on the ends.

    Should've started this 6 months ago lol

  8. #23
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    Open shelves in the middle with a divider or two to break it up and doors on the triangular sections to hide the outlet holes in the back is appealing from a construction viewpoint. However, imagine how it will look when filled with stuff. If not managed with discipline it may look cluttered.

  9. #24
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    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    As you have not worked with MDF before please note that you need to take extra caution about the dust created when cutting MDF. That dust is extra dangerous as it is very fine and also contains resins that your lungs would prefer not to inhale. Routing MDF is an especially dangerous operation without good dust collection, air cleaner, and respirator.

    I would avoid using MDF in this situation and go with birch ply, maybe even baltic birch Should be less expensive than maple ply and will paint just as well.
    If it's to be painted, how about MDO if it's available? Paints well and no concerns about getting wet.

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