[OP]
Contributor
Any ideas on how to fix this?
CD4754E6-3CE2-442F-92E0-66F56790123E.jpg
I’m not sure how to get the broken part out to put a new screw in.
I’d like to get a screw in since it is only 2 screws per hinge.
It is 1 of 3 hinges for the door so it may be ok to glue it in once finished. Any advice to repair it is appreciated.
2BCC1883-C311-4747-BCE5-A12FF219605E.jpg
Contributor
I would take the hinge off and drill down beside the broken screw end using an old drill bit, then use needle nose pliers, and anything else you may need, but try to keep all the damage on the side of the broken screw toward the main body of the hinge. Then once the broken screw is gone I would drill a larger hole or a pair of holes that remove all of the damaged wood and plug the hole or holes with a glued in dowel. Then once the glue is dry cut off the dowel flush to the wood, drill a new screw hole and put in your new screw. You should be able to keep all of the dowel under the hinge if you're careful. I would use a real hardwood dowel, oak or maple or something, not ramin wood like you get at the hardware store. If you have a plug cutter you could make a plug out of a scrap from the wood you used to build the cabinet so it would match, instead of using a dowel. There are doubtless other ways, this is just my suggestion.
Contributor
I would make an attempt to screw the stub out with drill and screw extractor, or just a left hand drill, but I don't think you'll succeed. I wouldn't push that - take care not to do more irreparable damage. After that doesn't work, the best thing to do is to core the screw out, make yourself a dowel with matching wood, including grain), glue it in, and start over. You've got enough hide from the hinge that the match may not even matter, but I wouldn't count on it.
Contributor
I would trace the outline of the hinge on the cabinet and then remove the hinge. You now can use a sharp narrow chisel to remove enough wood from around the screw (keeping inside the area covered by the hinge) so you can grip it with a pair of vice grips and twist it out or pry it out. Fill the hole with filler (thickened epoxy would be my first choice), drill new hole using the hinge as a guide preferably with a Vix bit (self centering bit) and replace the screw.
Contributor
The best tool I've found for removing small broken screws is the UNSCREW-UMS.
https://tltools.com/
I have used these and made my own with tubing using a file to crudely cut the teeth.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
Buy a hollow roll pin that just goes over the screw shank. Grind one tooth at the split like a hole saw. Use it as a hole saw and go m as deep as the screw tip.
I would then cut a round plug to glue into the hole. Make sure it is cross grain not end grain like most dowels that you can buy. Then either drill it for a new woodscrew or drill it for a machine screw and nut.washer on the back side. If space allows use a fender washer even if you have to grind it oval to hide it.
Bil lD.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-8-Pack-36-mm-Roll-Pins/4563414
PS: They make left handed drill bits that may work to get it unscrewed.
Last edited by Bill Dufour; 10-11-2020 at 2:25 PM.
[OP]
Contributor
Great advice!
The roll pin idea would’ve been perfect.
I took Zach’s advice and drilled beside it then used needle nose pliers to turn it out.
I didn’t even think about end grain versus straight grain for my dowel. That’s good advice too.
I drilled it for a 1/4” dowel but the top was a little bigger so I turned a dowel down on my lathe that had a taper to fill the hole.
it looks like it worked out well. I’ll get a screw later and finish the repair.
Thanks for the quick and helpful advice!!
F189F52B-F5C3-495B-939E-05711DEE0D0E.jpg
579D1E03-3858-4D50-B7F9-ADD63B65EE5F.jpg
A63FB5EC-0B3F-45BA-A319-A55087498BF0.jpg
Moderator
I have these little "screw remover" things that were clearly made from a cotter pin type thing but likely hardened and they have "teeth" on the end that help grip the broken screw. They have "saved the bacon" a number of times over the years.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
Jim I’ll have to buy a set of those for next time!
Contributor
The ones I have look like this, except the teeth are reversed so you run the drill in reverse.
ChengTrephineSizes.jpg
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Moderator
Yup...exactly what I was describing. Thanks for posting the image!Originally Posted by andy bessette
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Forget who I ordered them from, one of the popular online/mail-order outfits had them in a set of 3(?).
One caution--you have to be careful against not tightening the drill chuck too much, or these might collapse, as they are brittle.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
The roll pins are hardened spring steel so they last. How many times are you going to use this tool anyway? esy to resharpen with a dremel.
Bil lD
Contributor
That's a smart idea about the roll pins, I'll have to remember that one.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
