Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 29 of 29

Thread: 12" Bow Saw

  1. #16
    I built a turning saw and I have used it for large dovetail waste (like the ones for the end-vise on my bench). It has a 1/4" blade in it. I briefly thought about putting a thinner blade in it cut waste from smaller dovetails, but dismissed it because although it can cut fast, it's much more cumbersome for precision work vs. a coping saw.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by chris carter View Post
    I built a turning saw and I have used it for large dovetail waste (like the ones for the end-vise on my bench). It has a 1/4" blade in it. I briefly thought about putting a thinner blade in it cut waste from smaller dovetails, but dismissed it because although it can cut fast, it's much more cumbersome for precision work vs. a coping saw.

    Chris,

    If your saw is small and light weight, ~12" or so, you might want to give the smaller blade a go. My experience is my 12" turning saw is more precise than a coping saw. Of course that could be because I almost never use a coping saw and use the bow saw almost always.

    ken

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    I have considered make a Paul Sellers style frame saw just to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4LohjmskEk

    https://paulsellers.com/knowledge-base/framebow-saw/


    Note that these are using a pretty wide blade. I wanted to make one just to make one...

  4. #19
    I have read through the preceding posts regarding bow saws and perhaps a comparison of them to coping or fret saws. My use for these "turning saws" is almost exclusively in removing dovetail waste. I have a Knew Concepts fret saw and the TFWW bow saw built from their kit. For the purpose, I find that the well-tensioned fret saw blade in a class by itself. For me, the frame saw does not afford the tension, turning ability, or smooth cut of the fret saw. Also the frame saw blade is thicker than my dovetail saw plate, so the frame saw can't make the 90+ degree turn required to remove the waste between tails. In my mind the frame saw is more of a manual band saw.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,844
    Part of it may be that in that use-case I'm looking to just waste the majority. I'm still chopping the baseline, so for me it just saves a bunch of chopping. So I also don't really care about smoothness of cut for that, just being quick. I've been playing around with turning the back handle to force a small curve in the blade. That makes for a really nicely controllable and rather immediate turn (then I just turn the front to match).
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  6. #21
    Or you could buy this and still be manually powered. 00c0c_7RdoiIIIez7_0uY0hq_600x450.jpg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,844
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Rathhaus View Post
    Or you could buy this and still be manually powered. 00c0c_7RdoiIIIez7_0uY0hq_600x450.jpg

    How do I waste dovetails, or half laps with that?
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Sometimes the most obvious solution escapes me. Just an observation, Ken, that you ganged the two pieces to get them the same. Something tells me I would have attempted to do it one at a time.

    That sort of work I enjoy a lot. Nice job on the arms!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,120
    You could come up here, and try mine out.....
    handle.jpg
    Handle..
    stretcher.jpg
    Second handle..
    IMG_2590 (640x480).jpg
    Mortise for the bent over all-thread..
    IMG_2589 (640x480).jpg
    Other end of the all-thread.
    IMG_2587 (640x480).jpg
    Blade holder..
    shaped handle.jpg
    handle details
    jiggered.jpg
    Mortise for the Maple stretcher
    dry fit 2.jpg
    Loose stretcher ( no glue needed) being fitted...

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I have considered make a Paul Sellers style frame saw just to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4LohjmskEk

    https://paulsellers.com/knowledge-base/framebow-saw/


    Note that these are using a pretty wide blade. I wanted to make one just to make one...
    Andrew,

    Large frame saws work very well, I've had one in my shop for years but once I got a band saw it was put on the shelf. Frame saws come in many sizes and blade widths to have a turning saw it is like a band saw the narrower the blade the better it turns. Which also points out that just because the saw is small does not mean it is a turning bow saw.

    ken

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Brady View Post
    I have read through the preceding posts regarding bow saws and perhaps a comparison of them to coping or fret saws. My use for these "turning saws" is almost exclusively in removing dovetail waste. I have a Knew Concepts fret saw and the TFWW bow saw built from their kit. For the purpose, I find that the well-tensioned fret saw blade in a class by itself. For me, the frame saw does not afford the tension, turning ability, or smooth cut of the fret saw. Also the frame saw blade is thicker than my dovetail saw plate, so the frame saw can't make the 90+ degree turn required to remove the waste between tails. In my mind the frame saw is more of a manual band saw.
    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    Part of it may be that in that use-case I'm looking to just waste the majority. I'm still chopping the baseline, so for me it just saves a bunch of chopping. So I also don't really care about smoothness of cut for that, just being quick. I've been playing around with turning the back handle to force a small curve in the blade. That makes for a really nicely controllable and rather immediate turn (then I just turn the front to match).
    Mike,

    What Mike said. But I would like to know what saw you use to cut dovetails, I do not often use Japanese pull saws but when I do the blades of my 12" bow saw fit the kerf well and is easy to use. Of course this just shows, as always one size does not fit all.

    ken

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Sometimes the most obvious solution escapes me. Just an observation, Ken, that you ganged the two pieces to get them the same. Something tells me I would have attempted to do it one at a time.

    That sort of work I enjoy a lot. Nice job on the arms!
    Phil,

    Thanks.

    I'm not sure but your way may be better . After that photo was made I screwed up cutting the curve in the top of the mortise for the stretcher. My fault, my gouge wasn't as sharp as it should have been, shame on me but bottom line after a bit of butt scratching those blanks are now fire starters and I prepped a couple of new blanks last night.

    Its not a big loss and gives me a chance to do a couple of things differently.

    ken

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    The old pueblo in el norte.
    Posts
    1,844
    Ken,

    FWIW, I'm not sure that the curve is necessary. I had a whole bunch of issues getting a tight fitting tenon with it.. so eventually I just made it flat.

    Of course, I actually possess no gouges.. That's something that'll need to get sorted eventually.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    Ken,

    FWIW, I'm not sure that the curve is necessary. I had a whole bunch of issues getting a tight fitting tenon with it.. so eventually I just made it flat.

    Of course, I actually possess no gouges.. That's something that'll need to get sorted eventually.
    Mike,

    I suspect you are correct. I can see a reason for the curve, to allow the arms and stretcher to self-correct but I doubt it makes any difference.

    I don't use gouges often, hence it being a little dull, but they can be handy. BTW, I sharpened it this morning and did a test cut on one of the fire starters and it did a great job. Goes to show you should never put a dull tool away. I try to follow that rule but sometimes I goof up.

    ken

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •