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Thread: GCC LaserPro Mercury 1 & USB to Parallel cable?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    GCC LaserPro Mercury 1 & USB to Parallel cable?

    The Mercury 1 is parallel port or serial port input. Im running an old Dell 4550 at the moment without any issues but Id like to gain a little space and upgrade the computer. Does anyone know or have experience with the GCC driver and one of the USB to parallel cables to know if they work?
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  2. #2
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    On my old ULS laser I used a USB to Parallel port converter, it was less than $20 at Amazon and it worked fine. Just look for one with the highest reviews.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , LightObject 40w CO2 Laser and Chiller , WorkBee 1000x750 CNC Router - Mach4 - Windows 10

  3. #3
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    The inexpensive Amazon USB to Centronics cable worked just fine. $9 if I recall. Thanks!
    IPG YLP 50W Class IV Fiber
    -Scan Lab ScanCube 10 Galvo
    -ScanLab RTC4
    -Linos 160mm
    -Sherline Rotary Axis
    -ProLase10 Software w/Motion

    MiniTech II CNC
    -NSK Astro e400 40k RPM Spinde
    -Sherline Rotary Axis
    -OneCNC XR6 Software

    Hurco VM1 VMC
    -WinMax
    -OneCNC XR6 Software

  4. #4
    I've had data issues at times with converters, so I don't use them any more. Easiest fix with a newer computer is to find a parallel/serial card that will work with whatever type peripheral plugs are on your motherboard. But to be perfectly honest, my Dell Optiplex 760/XP pro 32 with an Intel E7300 2.66 CoreDuo, 4gigs ram, running Gravostyle, Corel x4 and drives my LS100 laser, is totally outperforming my Dell T5400 Precision Win7 pro 64 with TWO Xeon X5460 3.16's & 32 gigs of ram. I have no idea why-? But it's proof to me a better computer isn't always better...

    But that said, you say you could use more space... for that all you need is to format an old hard drive and install it as a slave. Or buy a 'large' flash drive...

    Nothing more frustrating than computers that won't cooperate. Your old Dell running 'without issues' speaks volumes to me, as I'm having a rash of computer problems lately. No fun-
    ========================================
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  5. #5
    Having extensive knowledge with serial, usb, and ethernet, I can confidently say that you should be looking at a Tripp Lite USB/Serial adaptor (https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Ke...87556966&psc=1), it uses a keyspan driver which is important for a consistent connection that doesn't drop or give you problems. You should not have any trouble with the GCC driver unless GCC has stopped support for serial altogether. The cheapies do work but their drivers are known to have issues with random disconnects and connection troubles.
    Chase
    Sharp Media Group, LLC

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  6. #6
    Good to know about the Tripp Lite, sounds like something I'd like to try out... so what the hell is a keyspan driver, and do their USB/parallel adapters I see for sale work as well?
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
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    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  7. #7
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    Interesting, I ran a ULS laser for years on a USB to Parallel adapter from Amazon, less that $12 or so. Zero issues. If you have problems with USB disconnects, make sure the Power Saving is turned off on all the USB ports and of course on the rest of the computer also.
    Last edited by Bill George; 11-17-2020 at 9:33 AM.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa. , LightObject 40w CO2 Laser and Chiller , WorkBee 1000x750 CNC Router - Mach4 - Windows 10

  8. #8
    The driver is just the piece of software that allows the computer and the hardware (in the case serial to USB converter) to interact. Keyspan just being the name of this specific one (it installs itself on win 7/10 when you plug it in), I believe it is superior to others out there, but as Bill mentions $12 ones have the potential of working just fine as well, but for me I know the Tripp Lite w/ Keyspan is tried and true. Also, just in case it helps anyone or anyone has questions, I am using a Mac with Parallels software (allows me to run windows, not parallel cable), running Windows 10 and am able to successfully connect to my Trotec Speedy 300 via serial to usb converter without any known issues.

    As for a parallel connection, it's a different situation as it works different than serial and would definitely be a different driver, in this case I am not sure if one driver matters vs another, since one doesn't stand out from another. I can't find a reason that a cheap cable vs a pricy one would matter short of build quality. I'd probably get this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Paral...tronics&sr=1-3 if I were wanting to go from parallel to usb.

    Bill is completely right on the power saving, I was in the middle of the print and my computer went into sleep mode and little to my surprise my laser froze, pretty annoying when your halfway through.
    Chase
    Sharp Media Group, LLC

    Hardware: Trotec Speedy 300 w/ rotary, Shotbot 4x8 w/ rotary, Prusa I3 MK3S+
    Software: Full Adobe Suite, CorelDRAW 2020, Aspire 9.5, Rhino 6, Job Control 10.7.1, Shopbot 3.8.50

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