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Thread: picture frames

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Dickinson, Texas
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    I usually use an aluminum tri-square and a dovetail saw.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
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    I have been making alot of picture frames lately. I started with a simple mitre sled, but ponied up and got the Incra 5000 sled. Great tool.

  3. #18
    I made this crude miter sled when I first started making picture frames: it was time well spent.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Tampa Bay, FL
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    I built a nice miter sled, but, frankly, my shooting board works better.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    McKean, PA
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    One trick I learned a number of years ago is that when you glue up a miter joint, you should apply glue to both sides of the joint. The faces being glued are essentially end grain and as such will tend to pull glue out of the joint. By coating both sides lightly you avoid the chance of glue starvation in the joint.

    You can also apply blue painters tape to the curved portions of the frame profile exactly to the edge on each side of the joint and any glue squeeze out comes off easily when the tape is removed
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
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    2,282
    I was using a drafting square to set up but have switched to a set of 30/45/60/90 machinist blocks. You can get a set for a little over $20. Even though they are made in China they are way more accurate than is needed for woodworking. They are thick enough to stand up on end but thin enough to fit between the carbide teeth of a 50 tooth 10" blade. Being steel I can easily tell if they are truly tight. They do make aluminum ones but they are too thick IMO.

    Also make sure you aren't twisting your miter gauge. The plastic zero play inserts can easily be overcome without realizing it if you put too much twisting force. With the miter gauge extrusion extended it's pretty easy to (since you have lots of leverage) to twist it.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    SCal
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    agree on the miter sled, assuming you make it from a perfect 90 square...easy to be fooled... you always need near perfect references when making jigs.
    That assures a 90 between the two moldings.
    but it does nothing to assure equal lengths of opposite sides...
    you can set up stop system to assure equal lengths, or get close, than move to a trimming system, mating the moldings together... a few thou matters, specially when mounding width is wide, such as 3-4"+.
    then for small moldings, an under pinner, as in the video, is ideal if you have one, otherwise, you often rely on glue for end grain, not great... a 23g pinner works if you can live with the tiny hole. For wider and thicker moldings, lots of options for joinery...
    One issue for shooting.... if you have a flat back molding, you can use a sacrificial wood piece to prevent tear out, but some moldings are not flat on the far edge, so tear out is a risk. Here a miter trimmer is more ideal...
    One size fits all rarely applies for ww, too many variables....

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Leesville, SC
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    2,378
    I use my Incra 1000HD. I tape the two side pieces together and then I tape the top & bottom together. That way I am sure the sides are the exactly the same length, and the top & bottom will be the exact same length. Works for me.
    Army Veteran 1968 - 1970
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  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Yorktown, VA
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    422
    I made a zero clearance for the miter saw that is shimmed for near perfect cut.

    IMG06402.jpg

    Then finished up with shooting board for picture frames.

    IMG06484.jpg

    Miters came out clean.

    IMG06496.jpg

    Resulting perfect corners everytime:

    Picture_frame.jpg

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Yorktown, VA
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    2,754
    Very nice work, Rob.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Yorktown, VA
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    422
    Thanks Ted.

    Jigs are the key to consistent picture frames for me.

    I also made one for holding the frame while cutting 4mm domino's to make the joint stronger.

    IMG06479.jpg

    IMG06488.jpg

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