Standing up a bandsaw

[Earl McLain]

The saw does have a support bolt on the top but I'd been told by a salesman at the local woodworking store (they sell Laguna but not Rikon) that he'd heard you shouldn't use it to lift the saw. That's why I was asking. But after thinking a bit I couldn't think of what else it could be used for. So I sent an email to tech support last night and they responded this morning that yes, you can use the support bolt to upright the saw.

Thanks for all the input.

Cliff

If i recall correctly, the primary purpose for the support bolt is to help anchor taller machines from tipping--like band saws and drill presses. But--it's sure nice to have a safety feature that has practical function and the blessing of the manufacturer's tech folks!!
earl

[Tom Trees]

With the table off, I'd do the same and lift it from the column.
It the table is still on, it would slam upright unless you are tall and have some weight, and chip some paint,
might want to use the provided ply for some cushion.

You machine at 225 kg minus the table, the weight will be the heaviest when about knee height, but bearing in mind the machine being quite tall with 19"
under the guides, will spread that weight so you will have more leverage to tilt it upright.
At around 45 degrees or shoulder height, the saw will be be nearly pivoting on the bottom corner weighing little.
I was quite surprised when I bought a new 200kg saw, the man just grabbed the machine up by the column,
that machine had issues and I had to get it on a trailer quick to go back.

It was as easily tilted as I had seen, and looking back now, was nice to get the chance to do,
as the next machine was a 24" saw, and was standing on a pallet so looked huge.
For a wee bloke like myself I have to jump to reach my 7 feet machine, and I'd say it looked funny when it was also on the pallet.

Its when you get close to 300kg that it becomes difficult to manhandle with beer without some planning.

Looks a like a good machine
Tom

[Bill Dufour]

I have seen pictures of a shop built wooden handtruck to move a saw like that. It is like a handtruck but it has two outrigger wheels on the back side so it can only tip back about 45 degrees. The saw is pushed around laying back at 45 degrees so it fits under the door. The truck is strapped on so the entire saw plus handtruck is tipped upright as a unit.
Bil lD

[Bernie Kopfer]

Well Cliff, I got 24 hours on you. My 10-347 arrived this morning after sitting around town for a week😤. Took a half hour just to get the wood crating off, but I’m working with two bum shoulders. Mine was delivered upright on a sturdy pallet,so why do you think yours will be lying down unless you have to transport it that way? The table is not attached, which is a good thing because it is a monster and must weigh 70 lbs. I was able to attach the Rikon mobility kit on the pallet and gently rolled it off on a makeshift ramp and now I can easily take it anywhere. It does come with a lift bolt which might work for tipping it upright. A beautiful piece of steel. Oh by the way the doors open together. I darn near bent the top hinge before I figured that out.

[Wes Grass]

I had little trouble moving my 16HD by myself, and I ain't big, 5-7ish, 175 lbs at my fattest. I'd pull the table off, 85 lbs I think. Pull it over and catch it, lay the top down on the tailgate. Pick up the bottom, slide it in. Reverse, rinse and repeat.

My FB-600, not so much. Engine hoist and straps to get the table off, 170 lbs. Pull it over with tie downs and screw eyes in the ceiling to where I could attach the engine hoist.

I won't attempt lifting this back up without a hoist. A couple instances in the past where my 'helper' let go and jumped away in the middle of letting something down. Not worth the risk of getting hurt, or going to jail for strangling the bas....

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Bernie,

It's going to have to travel 2 hours in the back of my Ridgeline so I'll have Woodcraft load it laying down on it's back. Wouldn't want to try driving it back standing up. Indiana drivers aren't always the best and I'd hate to have to slam on the brakes with a 7' tall 500 lb crate in the bed. I bought a shop crane to lift it out of the truck then I'll lay it down on a pair of furniture dollies to roll back to the shop. I read that the table is 130 lbs so I'll use the crane for that as well. I'll be assembling it alone and my back has been giving me fits lately so I'm planning for as little lifting as possible.

May your saw be all you hope it would be.

Cliff

[Jim Becker]

If it's in the truck bed on it's spine, set it upright as you slide it off the back with some help. No need for a crane, etc....just a couple of helpers and that case of adult beverages that Brian mentioned. I brought my MM16 home from a show that way and it was easy to carefully slide it down off the tailgate.

[Jim Dwight]

The table should be separate on a new machine. Mine was. It was fairly heavy but I didn't think it was too bad. Side tables on the PCS were worse. That eyebolt on the top would be a good place for a winch or engine hoist. If you want to go the two wheeler route a refrigerator dolly would be better than others. You can strap the tool to the dolly. U haul has them for rent. They are made for this type of weight.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Jim,

The shop is about 90 feet behind the house. It will be easier to roll it horizontally on furniture dollies than trying to move it down vertically. And since there's only two of us, I'm 69 with a wonky back at the moment and my friend is 72, it seems prudent to use the crane. If I could back the truck up to the shop door I'd probably do as you suggest.

Cliff

[Ron Selzer]

Bernie,

It's going to have to travel 2 hours in the back of my Ridgeline so I'll have Woodcraft load it laying down on it's back. Wouldn't want to try driving it back standing up. Indiana drivers aren't always the best and I'd hate to have to slam on the brakes with a 7' tall 500 lb crate in the bed. I bought a shop crane to lift it out of the truck then I'll lay it down on a pair of furniture dollies to roll back to the shop. I read that the table is 130 lbs so I'll use the crane for that as well. I'll be assembling it alone and my back has been giving me fits lately so I'm planning for as little lifting as possible.

May your saw be all you hope it would be.

Cliff

Sounds like a good plan, slow, steady, lots of thinking and planing.
Good luck
Ron

[Jim Becker]

Jim,

The shop is about 90 feet behind the house. It will be easier to roll it horizontally on furniture dollies than trying to move it down vertically. And since there's only two of us, I'm 69 with a wonky back at the moment and my friend is 72, it seems prudent to use the crane. If I could back the truck up to the shop door I'd probably do as you suggest.

Cliff

Bummer you can't get the vehicle to the shop, so I agree with your approach. But once it's there, if you can get one or two more folks, you may find standing it up isn't all that bad.

[Erik Loza]

I had little trouble moving my 16HD by myself... My FB-600, not so much...

During my Italian days, I could handle a 16" bandsaw by myself pretty easily but the 20" machines were impossible. Engine hoist with a yellow strap was my preferred method.

Erik

[Tom Bender]

If you are going to lift with an eyebolt look up the capacities of eyebolts first. Good ones have 1/4 strength when pulled from the side. Less good ones have less capacity.

[Michael J Evans]

I would think a heavy duty ratchet strap would be adequate. Just the other day in the shop we lifted a 780# machine with a ratchet strap and forklift.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

If you are going to lift with an eyebolt look up the capacities of eyebolts first. Good ones have 1/4 strength when pulled from the side. Less good ones have less capacity.

This eyebolt is the support bolt that came with the saw. I checked with tech support and they said that the saw could be lifted upright with it. By the way I brought the saw home last Wednesday. Used a shop crane to stand it up with no problem.