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Thread: Orange peel look after spray lacquer

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    San Diego, Ca
    Posts
    1,647
    Quote Originally Posted by John King View Post
    The idea of heating the can (regardless of method) is a very bad one. Application of heat to a pressurized can of spray paint (Deft in this case) will increase the pressure in the can. At some temperature the pressure in the can will increase to a level that causes the can to rupture. Likely result is uncontrolled rupture of the can and personal injury. - John
    All things need to be done with caution, moderation and common sense. I would not heat up a full can. Nor would I put it close to an ignition source while heating. But when the can is perhaps half full (or less) I've put the in the sun and have also put them into a pan of hot water. On one can I saw this printed: "Danger - extremely flammable, contents under pressure, do not expose to temperatures exceeding 122 degrees." This raises an interesting advisory though - - that a person should probably not leave a spray paint can in a car in sun in the summer.

    But you are probably right, there is some danger to heating the can and the danger increases as the can is more full. So, others should not try this.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Strongsville OH
    Posts
    113
    I wet sand with wet/dry SiC paper. I usually just do 400 grit followed by Beall buffing. There are many who instead of buffing use automotive polishes.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Nathal View Post
    I wet sand with wet/dry SiC paper. I usually just do 400 grit followed by Beall buffing. There are many who instead of buffing use automotive polishes.

    Thanks for the reply. Do you just use water to wet it? and can wet-sanding be done off the lathe, or do I need to make a jam chuck and do it on the lathe for it to be effective?
    Thanks, Tom

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Strongsville OH
    Posts
    113
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Do you just use water to wet it? and can wet-sanding be done off the lathe, or do I need to make a jam chuck and do it on the lathe for it to be effective?
    Thanks, Tom
    I use tap water with a few drops of dishwashing detergent. I do this off the lathe with a 2x2 inch square piece of sandpaper.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Nathal View Post
    I use tap water with a few drops of dishwashing detergent. I do this off the lathe with a 2x2 inch square piece of sandpaper.

    Thanks for the info. Mike. I've never done that but would like to give it a shot.

    Tom

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
    Posts
    2,054
    Been spraying lacquer for 60 years on cars, bowls ect. At this point in finishing you will have orange peel period. a fact. Now knock it down by wet sanding with 440 SP or steel wool. Obtain some various grades of compounds (or compounds mixed with carnuba wax) at auto part stores and rub down to your fav. sheen, by power or hand. I do all my finishing (semi-pro) on the lathe, turnig at various speeds. Standard lacquer finishing procedure. Old Forester Ps------Wet sanding should always be done wih soapy water----spraying with lac. retarder sometimes helps, it is merely a slow drying lac. thinnner--great to melt out fogged lac. due to humidity. very useful stuff,.
    Last edited by robert baccus; 10-25-2020 at 8:05 PM.

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