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Thread: Second or third opinion, please

  1. #1
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    Second or third opinion, please

    I’m looking to replicate the table leg detail at the bottom of this table. The image gets very fuzzy when enlarged. At first I thought the detail was an applied piece similar to a cuff. But looking closer, maybe it’s actually a full tapered leg, with just an applied roman ogee type molding. Any experience with this type of period detail and how it was done would be appreciated.

    8C31177E-9AA8-4A56-8DA2-D5103451BE69.jpeg


    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Does this more clearly illustrate what the legs look like? https://www.scullyandscully.com/furn...BoCRNwQAvD_BwE

  3. #3
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    Thanks Joe. Yes, but perhaps a little more understated than those - probably a little thinner profile. Just don’t know how they go about making it. I think I will make the leg profile as show in the crude drawing and add a very small molding. Just can’t imagine doing it any other way.

    0AE686AC-914D-4E76-87C5-BE60EAEA8935.jpg
    Last edited by Phil Mueller; 10-01-2020 at 8:55 PM.

  4. #4
    I would google-up Hepplewhite Demilune tables

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    The legs I have seen that look like the ones in your photo have a cast metal cap at the end of the leg that slips over the wood. Leg Caps
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
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  6. #6
    Look at Hepplewhite "spade foot"

  7. #7
    I had to repair or "improve" a table like that years ago. I think I glued 4 pieces around then added inlaid veneer. But
    I don't think I've ever looked at how the old ones were done.

  8. #8
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    Thank you Mel and Lee.
    Lee, I did consider the metal caps...which I think adds a neat compliment to the wood. Still thinking about that.
    Mel, thanks again...in all my looking around, I did not know the feature was called a “spade foot”. That search lead to some great images that I think could work well...

  9. #9
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    The leg looks tapered. If it starts out with a square piece (or even easier with wide 8/4 stock) it should be easy to do in a few ways.

    One would be to rough cut the shape out and then work it with spoke shaves and rasps to produce the spade foot.

    As Lee mentioned, many of these had a simple to highly decorative piece of brass encasing the 'spade foot.' My recollection is of seeing some of them having small castors. That might be on a gate leg version to convert it into a round game table.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #10
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    To buck the trend, how difficult would applying shop veneer "shims" to the legs be? If the tapers ard uniform the first will serve as a template for the others.

  11. #11
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    Thank you Jim. I agree that would work. The front legs are tapered on three sides, and the back legs are tapered on two sides. That adds a little complexity to making the shims, but wouldn’t be too difficult.

    I am narrowing it down to the method shown in my drawing, or a slightly simplified design that would be a curved transition from leg to spade done with carving chisels, rasp, files, whatever.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    I am narrowing it down to the method shown in my drawing, or a slightly simplified design that would be a curved transition from leg to spade done with carving chisels, rasp, files, whatever.
    I've never done work this fine.

    FYI - I'm not recommending an historically correct method, nor is it because wasting that much material grinds my gears.

    I just can't plan far enough ahead to get something like this right the first time. If you have offcut stock, getting an acceptable color and grain match should be possible.

    If you wanted to experiment with banding or marquetry, smaller fields are easier to handle.

  13. #13
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    Thanks again, Jim. I’ve done cuff banding with an “extra” taper...here’s a table I made last year or maybe year before.

    7FAA15BE-3042-4B5E-8D22-76BB1660757C.jpg 8C275224-BD43-4EA5-A9FB-426FF517BA62.jpg

    I wanted to try something different for the Demilune I’m working on. You’re right, and that’s why I’m anxious about being able to create a small enough molding. I’m going to experiment with some scrap leg stock to see what I can do.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    That's spectacular.

    Kudos

  15. #15
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    Phil, is a picture of a tapered leg, with foot detail in the Sheraton table I made. My approach was to saw the taper over the bulk of the leg and leave the bullet full-size carve the detail. It was faster/easier than it might look. Anyway food for thought.

    Best, Mike

    48.jpg49.6.jpg

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